electrical problems on gu patrol

Submitted: Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 08:42
ThreadID: 13704 Views:6882 Replies:4 FollowUps:1
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I have a GU Patrol that is blowing the tail lights/dash light fuse. The vehicle has been to the dealer twice so far but after 5-10 minutes fuse blows still. Originally the fuse would blow every time you replaced it but now takes 5-10 minutes or maybe when i hit a bump in the road. I also noticed the other day while driving it that it would idle fast (1100rpm) when not in gear, put it in gear it would idle at the normal speed. The vehicle is also fitted with cruise control so I dont know whether this could be part of the problem.
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Reply By: Member - ramp - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:37

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:37
hi snowman,sorry i cant give you a easy answer but you have a short circut some where, so i would check that your 12v supply wire from the fuse to those lights is not bare and rubbing on your chasis anywhere or your connections are not loose anywhere. cheers rob
AnswerID: 62870

Reply By: Phil P - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:45

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:45
Check the wiring on the trailer socket (if you have one). Sometimes the installers are lazy during install and the wires get squashed between the trailer socket & the mounting plate.
AnswerID: 62872

Reply By: Bilbo - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 12:50

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 12:50
I can support Phil's statement. My Yota LC100 recently had a Kaymar wheel carrier fitted and part of that fitting was to fit supplementary rear lights. The wheel carrier block the passenger side rear lights.

The wheel carrier was fitted about 8 months ago, and it took this amount of time for the fault to develop. The fault took the form of the passenger side indicators operating in a very dim fashion and the remote door locking wouldn't work. It was the latter problem that made me go to a Yota dealer as I suspected it was the remote at first and didn't put 2 and 2 together.

They couldn't fix the remote and asked me to book it in for thier auto leccy to have a look at it. Over the weekend, prior to booking, I thought "Hmm. the dim indicators and the remote failed at about the same time".

Off with the lense covers on the supplementary rear lights and sure enough the wires had been crushed by the aluminium barrier plate between the indicator bulb and the stop/tail bulb - but only just, barely exposed the wire conductor through the insulation on the indicator wiring. I rearranged the wiring to pass through the barrier in the cutouts designed for that purpose and BINGO - indicators were OK and the remote worked perfectly.

But it took 8 months for that 'low load' short to develop.

Another prob on my old diesel Ford Mav ute was caused by the reversing light switch on the gearbox top, developing an internal short within the switch. This led to to some very strange things happening - blown fuses, dash lights dim and strange combination of lights coming up on the dash AND a total failure of engine managment system. It wouldn't start - sometimes. Wouldn't idle - sometimes. Pulled the wiring from the back of the switch at the connector - BINGO. No more problems.

The above prob happened way out in WA bush about 300 kms North-East of Leonora. "Not nice Nissan, Bad Nissan, Nissan get bum smacked, scaring Bilbo like that, Bilbo maybe walk back to Leonora, Bilbo alone in bush"

AnswerID: 62878

Reply By: Patrol22 (Queanbeyan - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 13:39

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 13:39
Snowman - that fast 1100rpm idle could be the clue to your problem. You will recall that the 'heat' switch at the lower RHS of you dash when turned on will kick up your RPM to 1100 when the donk is cold and automatically cut back to 750 once to operating temp. This facility is also connected to your gear selector so that when you select a gear to move off it overrides this warm up switch and cut the revs back to 750. I suspect that if you are fast idling at 1100 rpm when the engine is warm then you have a short in this piece of kit. If you are still under warranty take it back and get them to have an auto sparky look at the problem - it is probably beyond most dealer mechanics.
AnswerID: 62884

Follow Up By: snowman - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 14:11

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 14:11
Thanks for that Pete, i didn't know about the heat switch changing the rpm. I remember on the day finding the mirror heating switch on so that explains the fast idling. On the day i had just driven the car for 2.5 hours and had pulled up at traffic lights when i noticed the fast idling. I also noticed that the idle would increase to 850 rpm when i turned the heat switch on or off( i cant remember which way). When i took the car to the dealer they pulled the instrument cluster out and the problem went from blowing fuses straight away to 5-10 minutes. They didn't know what they did to change the situation. I will look at the back of the heat switch and dimmer control switch as it sounds like the problem might be there somewhere.
FollowupID: 324209

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