What have you done for rust protection?
Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 15:37
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arod
Looking for advice around rust proofing for a new 4wd.
The options seem to be:
- Electronic rust protection – conflicting reports as to whether it works, but people that have it seem to like it
- Chemical rust protection – underbody and panel application, can scratch and wear off
- DIY – apply lanotec or other product as required
Electronic and chemical rust protection seem to broadly be the same price. I also note with all these options nothing beats a good wash and clean after beachwork.
What are people currently doing with their vehicles? Not wanting to create any arguments, just looking to understand what approach other people have taken and whether they are happy with it.
Reply By: RMD - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 17:06
Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 17:06
In hidden vital areas, if electronic systems don't work then it is too late when you notice anyway. That is one reason why I don't trust it.
Application type coatings do get blasted off as you mention, but those areas are usually fairly easily treated with a spray recoat. These types often crack and allow moisture, salt water, to enter but is unseen and so the tin worm eats but isn't always seen. Some areas do benefit from a deadening protective coating.
I prefer Lanolin because when sprayed under a vehicle at all lap and spot welded areas, the Lanolin soaks into and wicks along where other sprays don't protect. Once in there it stops water entering which is a good idea. The Lanolin stays there. It is easly sprayed into chassis rails, essential to do that, if seriously interested in trying to prevent rust. With a cross drilled nozzle the chassis can be treated from end to end. Then it won't rust out from the inside like some Navaras have.
Unlike older vehicles of past eras, the modern ones don't seem to rust out and so unless the body panels are to be underwater the insides of bodywork should be ok.
I had a HJ61 LC for 25 years and Lanolin seemed ok and I couldn't find rust in it apart from some spots on the roof where paint was thin.
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Reply By: Hoyks - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 18:45
Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 18:45
Electronic rust protection? Its your money, but WA gov have declared then to be a rip off. Takes a bit of evidence, or lack there of for a department to go that far.
https://www.mynrma.com.au/cars-and-driving/buying-a-car/features/shonky-rust-reduction-devices-debunked
Most move their vehicle on before the tin worm rears its head, so can't really comment on if they work or not. I had a 1980 Sigma that had no visiable rust at the 10 year mark. Wish I could say the same at 12 years.
I went chemical, can't beat grease. Rust forms where there are moisture traps. Modern vehicle design and coatings have eliminated most of them, but someone with greasy/waxy concoction and a gun to spray it into the nooks and crannies is the way to go.
I did
mine myself as I couldn't find a professional that was still applying the proper gear as those selling the box with a flashing LED had put them out of business. I had access to a supply of corrosion preventative and a degreaser gun to fog it through the cavities.
I treated a Sierra I bought new in 95. Got Facebook stalked by the woman that has it now. No rust, so Tectyl must work.
I also work on aircraft. On a $50mil aircraft the corrosion protection is tectyl, wax spray, wd40, grease, keeping the paint in good condition and washing it regularly. No electronic Hocus Pocus, just protecting the metal from moisture and electrolytes.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 19:50
Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 19:50
Hoyas
Well states inflo. I believe the same. Never had a problem with rust.
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Follow Up By: arod - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 23:58
Tuesday, Oct 30, 2018 at 23:58
Which chemical treatment are you using?
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Follow Up By: Hoyks - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 06:05
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 06:05
Tectyl. Thin it out a bit with a suitable solvent and spray away.
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Follow Up By: Les - PK Ranger - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 07:20
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 07:20
We used Tectyl years ago in the panel trade, can’t remember the number might have been 605 ?
We’d thin it 50/50 with fish oil and use a proper rust proofing gun l, could of metre hose with end that had multiple direction holes to spray out all over in sills, bottom of guards and quarters, doors.
Me, I’ve done nothing to the
Ranger (now 7 years) and no
sign of rust.
Most vehicles are hit dip coated now, galv, and are very
well protected.
Only nuts and bolts underneath show signs of surface rust, not an issue.
I’ve done loads of beach drives in SA, Qld, ALWAYS flush chassis until clear water, hose underneath esp books and crannies under guards.
Mudflap attachment / voids behind can be a collection point for sand and other such.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 10:10
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 10:10
Sorry Hoyks
My reply should have read "hoyks not hoyas", my friends Ipad does it to me, no proof reading I suppose.
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Follow Up By: Hoyks - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 14:28
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 14:28
No worries RMD, I often get autocorrected.
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Follow Up By: Genny - Thursday, Nov 01, 2018 at 13:44
Thursday, Nov 01, 2018 at 13:44
I hear the bloke who invented auto-correct died recently, I hear.
May he roast in piss.
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Reply By: Ron N - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 12:50
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 12:50
Modern vehicle don't corrode anything like the vehicles of 30 years ago.
Vastly improved panel treatment, enlarged drain holes and the removal of blind hole "traps" in the build, have ensured corrosion problems are minimal today.
The greatest source of corrosion potential today is surface corrosion in thin paints, and water-based paints.
The water-based paints are crap, they turn to chalk with age.
What governs a vehicles life today is electrics, wiring and electronics - and cooling system corrosion.
Vehicles of today die an electronic death around 20-25 years on average, as once your vehicle develops a major electronic fault at 20 years of age, it's off to the scrapper.
What amazes me also is the number of people who worry about body and panel corrosion - yet who let their cooling system deteriorate to the point, where they end up with a major cooling system fault, through metal corrosion.
Cheers, Ron.
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Reply By: CSeaJay - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 15:36
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2018 at 15:36
Hi
Another option is "do nothing" in terms of application; But just be sure to high pressure wash after beach driving.
It is a serious option; electric proofing may or may not be effective, and applications may even trap sand in nooks and crannies.
I believe to keep the underside free of any application, and then simply wash thoroughly. As said before, modern cars will die due to other reasons
well before rust will become a factor.
I have done this with all my cars with several beach and salt environment holidays (Qld coast, Fraser Isle, northern West Coast), and kept them between 10 and 14 years, and rust did not show on any of them.
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Reply By: Member Kerry W (WA) - Tuesday, Nov 06, 2018 at 13:18
Tuesday, Nov 06, 2018 at 13:18
From my personal experience...
For underbody treatment a good quality body deadener thinned down with either thinners, ensis fluid or WD lube (I havn't used fish oil with this as yet) and sprayed on thin to penetrate the fine spaces. Then a second thick coat on top will last a considerable time. It will wear off in some exposed
places but most areas will be fine.
For long term protection - if the vehicle is a keeper... my answer ONLY really applies if you are restoring and keeping one of the classic bullet proof (ie non throwaway) 4X4s.For inside body panels. Use an air splatter gun using Tectyl thinned down with Ensis fluid (penetrating fluid - was a Shell product) this was an original formula once used by many Qld rustproofers. It takes a lot of dedication to get into all the cavities but there are plenty of access points in most vehicles.
Doing the inside/underbody panels properly is a big messy job to do yourself. You will need personal protective gear. Preferably a respirator (rather than just a dust mask), eye protection and overalls.
There is really no easy way to do it properly.
I realised I would be keeping my GQ Patrol for many years (due to its field servicability and mechanical specifics which appealed to me) I rustproofed this vehicle thoroughly back in 2001. It has been a Qld vehicle most of its life - so lots of rain/humidity and has seen a lot of beach and deep
river crossing work over the years. After 27 years (Yes! the GQs are now that old) bottom of doors and lower panels are fine, only has minor spot rust on stone chips and recently removed some rust from roof gutter and around rear door window seals and found areas where the rust was - had been missed in my original application due to lack of access up that high in the rear doors. The other hard to get to area is the inside roof perimeter behind the roof liner - condensation accumulates on roof and drains down to the edges. The easiest solution is a series of tiny holes in the roof liner and a thin nozzle to insert - dare I say it fish oil - the smell does go after a few days but the protection will last quite a while. Periodic use of fish oil inside wheel arches/flairs will help keep them in good condition.
Not necessary for everyone but these methods actually work.
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Follow Up By: ian.g - Thursday, Nov 08, 2018 at 12:16
Thursday, Nov 08, 2018 at 12:16
Not wanting to be picky Kerry, but if you purchased and rust proofed this vehicle in 2001 then it is 17 years old not 27.
Cheers Ian
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Follow Up By: Member Kerry W (WA) - Friday, Nov 09, 2018 at 16:28
Friday, Nov 09, 2018 at 16:28
Ummm....Ian G, not sure if you mean the vehicle or the rustproofing job? Either way its a 27 year old GQ with minimal rust - never mentioned when I bought it but if its only 17 years old - its the newest GQ on the planet. Thanks for the reply though, at least it shows somebody read my story...:-)
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Reply By: Ron N - Wednesday, Nov 14, 2018 at 11:46
Wednesday, Nov 14, 2018 at 11:46
One product I've had good rust protection success with (and the principle behind it is proven), is Exit-Rust.
The principle behind Exit-Rust is the chemical reaction between Iron Tannate and Magnetite, whereby these chemical compounds are involved in chelation (pronounced "kel-lation") of the rust.
Chelation is a process involving organic chemistry whereby a chemical compound reacts with iron compounds, to bond with the iron compounds and convert them into a stable compound that forms a barrier to corrosion. The organic chemicals involved are called Ligands.
You can see this reaction occurring naturally from sap from trees that contain a high level of tannins.
Poplar trees are noted for their high tannin content, and their tannins leaching into water bodies such as lakes and ponds, produce naturally-occurring, rust-reducing bodies of water.
You might have seen the totally-submerged WW2 Russian tank dragged from a poplar-lined pond in Eastern Europe, around the early 2000's.
It was amazingly corrosion-free, despite being sunk in the pond since 1945, and the tannins from the poplar trees were the reason for that.
Exit-Rust can be brushed on or sprayed on, or you can dip your item in it.
It forms the classic blue-black iron tannate coating that acts to prevent corrosion.
I've done the inside of the chassis box-section on a Series 3 Landrover wagon in 1995, and the chassis is still rust-free today.
As most of you would probably know, corrosion inside the box-section chassis of Landrovers is a major problem in the old Landies.
Cheers, Ron.
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