Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 Questions

Submitted: Monday, Jun 14, 2004 at 23:34
ThreadID: 13769 Views:16514 Replies:9 FollowUps:10
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Hello all,

Having been bitten by the 4WD bug and having no experience in this area except a small amount of research, i have been looking into some older 4WD's and as the topic suggest, especially the Toyota Landcruiser FJ40. (1976 year)

What are these vehicles like in the offroad department? What can/can't they do and go compared to newer model 4wd? I know this is a stupid question but i would like to know for Comparison.

Are new and old parts readily available for them should i require them? And can service manuals been obtained for them?

Should i decide to buy 1 what are especially important things i should i be wary of that may mean the vehicle is not worth considering except for parts?

What are they like to run in the fuel department, and on a factory original, what was the standard items supplied. Also engine capacity, number of gears, any diff locks etc? (it's hard to find info on older vehicles such as these on the net or books)

Finally, are there any other 4wd i should be looking at from the late 70's, early 80's. I'm noit looking for a fancy 4wd just a good bush basher, that after i've bogged it and had mud go through the drivers compartment, i can throw water on it to clean it up without damaging electrics and carpets etc

Thanks for any help you can provide
Torskin
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Reply By: tour boy - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 08:15

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 08:15
Go the fj40 top truck. easy to get parts for, rugged construction easy to work on, reliable, can be thirsty (a holly carb is better) Mega amounts of accessories available. 1976 should be 4.2 litre, 4 speed fully floating axles vinal seats and flooring. (just pull the floor plugs out and hose the inside floor) Most have rust in floor, rear doors and quarters and where the resin roof is bonded to the steel gutter. Fiberglass panels are available including body tub and 1 piece tilt front end (guards, grill and bonnet). Generally a pretty indestructable truck. More info check out birfield.com
Regards
Dave
AnswerID: 63190

Reply By: fateddie54 - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:10

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:10
Torskin,
As an FJ40 owner I can say that if youre after a capable offroad basher, youve chosen the right vehicle. As tour boy said-an FJ40 should be everything youre after. My only additional advice would be to try and find one that is already dual fuel converted, as they are veeery thirsty!
Happy hunting
AnswerID: 63195

Follow Up By: Torskin - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 18:03

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 18:03
You wouldn't happen to have any pics of your FJ by any chance plus a list of some of the mods you have installed by anychance?
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Reply By: maverick - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:28

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:28
as per the other wise answers - forget the thirst bit - the fj40 was born to have a v8 diesel installed. with some judicious hammer work the turbo sits just like a factory original - lift the body - air suspension instead of the springs - get rid of the top and upper body anyway - go forth and have fun. rgds
Slow down and relax......

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AnswerID: 63198

Follow Up By: fateddie54 - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:44

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 09:44
maverick,
now youve got my attention, you sound like youve had some experience in this area! I am still drawing life from my 2F but she is very long in the tooth. Ive always had plans to dump an 8 in there, but am undecided re petrol, gas, or diesel. I would appreciate any knowledge you have in this area!
Thanks in advance.
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Follow Up By: Member - Rohan K - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 11:50

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 11:50
And if you can't aford the V8 diesel, just toss in a Chev petrol small block V8 (327 or 350). They would have to be one of the simplest conversions around.

Ditch the original drum brakes - nothing but trouble - and replace with later model disks.

What you can do to and FJ40 is virtually endless (dependant upon the size of your wallet and whether or not you want the thing to remain registerable).
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Reply By: Torskin - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 18:39

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 18:39
Thanks for the response guys.....

Was looking at the birfield.com web site in particular the specs sheet for the '78 model and noticed that it can run on unleaded fuel. Is this also possible a '76 model? I assume that the engine is still the same type but i not sure, so i be asking.
AnswerID: 63291

Reply By: Rossco100series - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 21:40

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 21:40
Hi Torskin

I did have a 1976 FJ-40 2f it was great 4wd. Now a few things with them I ran mine on unleaded but I also installed a Moreys upper cylinder kit so I could run U/L and gas. Diff locks are easy to get ARB make air lockers to suit as well as Detroit diff locks are available. Mine also had extractors just to help with the economy. They do suffer from rust as they are getting long in the touth so check for rust. They can suffer from gearbox pumping its oil into the transfer case. As there is only 1 seal between them and if that seal go's the gearbox will pump its oil to the transfer case. But there is a cheap fix goto a hydraulics spealists and get some hose fittings that fit into the fill point on gearbox and transfer case then get a oil resistance hose to join between them. So if the transfer case does get to much oil in it it will drain back to the gearbox. ARB, TJM & Opposite LOck all supply suspension kits for them and spare parts are pretty easy to get as well. Just make sure you keep up with servicing the 4wd oils / greese etc. The front birfield can break in extreme 4wdriving in reverse but there is up grade's for them as well. Other than that treat it well and service regularly she will take you any where you want to go.

Rossco
AnswerID: 63331

Follow Up By: Torskin - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 23:25

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 23:25
Thanks Rossco,

just one question & i apologise for my ignorance but what is a front birfield or for that matter a birfield?
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Follow Up By: Rossco100series - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 01:12

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 01:12
Torskin

The birfields are located in the front diff on landcruisers from the 40 series till the 100 series. If you crawl under a landcruiser you will notice at each end of the diff a ball, this is where the front wheels pivot on. Now inside there is a bearing that has a shaft permantly attached to this bearing which runs to the front hubs. This bearing pivots left and right its this bearing that can go bang under extreme reversing in 4wd. Also this bearing can bernell. This is the balls in the bearing sitting in one spot and vibrating ( driving conditions ) and chipping the case hardening off the inner and outer race ways on the bearing causing failure as well. To help prevent this once a week lock the front hubs into 4wd BUT DO NOT PUT THE TRANSFER CASE INTO 4WD WHILE DRIVING ON HARD SURFACE's. With the fronts hub into 4wd this will make the internals rotate and circulate oils and greese. I do this and drive for about 20k's just to circulate greese through this bearing and help to prevent bernelling.

Rossco any questions just ask away
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FollowupID: 324614

Reply By: Torskin - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 23:27

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 23:27
ME again :) Would anyone happen to know where in Australia, in partucilar Melbourne can you find clean, rust free panels, doors etc?

Thanks again
Torskin
AnswerID: 63354

Follow Up By: Rossco100series - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 01:19

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 01:19
Torskin

A clean and rust free 40 series you better be quick they are in high demand and they are asking high price's. Be prepared to look in the country as well and if it does have some rust contact Eureka 4X4 in Dandenong ( I think ) they make heaps of fibreglass panels doors and stuff for them. There is another mob called Gold Coast Fibreglass ( I think ) or there is a mob up that way that make's heaps of fibreglass stuff for them.

Rossco
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Follow Up By: Davoe - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 11:04

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 11:04
Know a guy who has a 40 series with extensive fibereglass panelling which is why he bought it but is now looking to replace some of the panels due to very poor fitting - something to watch out for
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FollowupID: 324792

Reply By: Torskin - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 02:33

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 02:33
ME again, just like to say thanks for the great response for everyone, it's been great. Now i have been looking around and i an wondering which engine is better for the landcruiser "shorties" Diesel 3.0D or Petrol 4.2? Which engine performs better, which one allows you to do more things while out bush bashing (climing hills, chirning through mud, which one is cheaper to run, etc etc....... i hope you know what i mean :)
AnswerID: 63358

Follow Up By: Torskin - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 02:39

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 02:39
I also meant to ask about the fibreglass panels VS metal panels. Is fibreglass as good as metal (apart from the rust perspective) as in strength, life span, saftey factor etc etc....?
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FollowupID: 324619

Follow Up By: fateddie54 - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 16:30

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 16:30
Torskin,
i didnt quite get back to you yesterday,
mods on my FJ include:
extractors for the 2F
Duel fuel conversion
33x12.5 R15 BFG A/t
Full OME suspension system-springs shocks (nitrocharger), greasable shackels pins etc. gave 50mm lift
50mm body lift
bucket seats
roll bar
fully floating rear diff not standard
sound system
alarm/immobiliser
Ive had alot of work done by Ken Dixon "Eureka Offroad" in Dandenong Melbourne, if you ask me he's the guru when it comes to FJ40's! Give him a call he's happy to answer questions if he has time (03)97068229.
He did my roll bar, dif, body lift, and replaced most of my front end after a prang. He does good work.
As for a pic of my truck, im currently trying to shrink it so it wont kill your computer trying to download it. I will attempt to attach it if i succeed!
Cheers
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FollowupID: 324695

Reply By: fateddie54 - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 16:35

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 16:35
okay, here is my cruiser. Pic was taken prior to fully floating diff, body lift, and bucket seat installation. Bit it gives you an idea. Let me know if the present set up interests you and i'll take a shot and put up!

[ View Image]
AnswerID: 63454

Follow Up By: Torskin - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 21:27

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 21:27
If you could load up a pic with the additions that would be great. What is a fully floating diff? and what does it allow you to do that you would not be able to do otherwise?
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FollowupID: 324736

Reply By: fateddie54 - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 13:39

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 13:39
Torskin,
new pic is on the same link as previously.
Fully floating diff is a diff housing and axle setup that extends beyond the wheel mounting surface. A semi floating diff (one that isnt fully floating) has the wheel mounted to the end of the axle, thus putting a greater strain on the axle. Whereas a fully floating has the axle extending through the wheel mounting surface, and thus the strain on the axle is lowered. Good for towing, carrying heavy loads. An all round more durable option.
AnswerID: 63586

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