LandCruiser 100 Aircon drips

Submitted: Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 14:44
ThreadID: 137695 Views:2102 Replies:10 FollowUps:16
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My 2005 LandCruiser Sahara 100 Series drips in the passenger footwell.

I've checked the engine bay drain and water drips from there too, as it should.
Any ideas as to how to fix the inside drips?

Barry
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Reply By: RMD - Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:00

Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:00
Barry,
Over time, after 14 years, dust builds up and collects near the eng bay drain in the aircon water sump area, even though it seems clear, there may be a significant build up of crud which is causing a level of water condensed from the air to build up and to slosh around. If it gets to any appreciable depth it will drip into the cab because it should all drain away.
A wasp may have made a nest in that engine bay tube and partially restricted the outflow.
Perhaps ream out the rubber hose with a frayed flexible nylon rope
or similar, to see is any stuff drops out.
You may be able to remove the fan resistor unit and carefully add water to the unit, with nose down, so as to flush the sump stuff out through the eng bay hose.
Worth a try.
AnswerID: 623289

Follow Up By: Steve in Kakadu - Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:13

Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:13
Spot on RMD, however, compressed air works wonders in this situation.

Regards
1
FollowupID: 896444

Reply By: Member BarryG - Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:17

Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 15:17
Thanks RMD & Steve,
Steve - do you blow in the engine bay drain? Or do I have to dismantle the box behind the glove box and blow out through there? I can get the eight screws out and the cover is loose, but seems that the whole dash has to come out to actually remove the cover!
Barry
AnswerID: 623290

Follow Up By: Les - PK Ranger - Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 16:38

Saturday, Jan 19, 2019 at 16:38
Barry, now out or fish (Edit blow out or flush out !) the way it normally drains, so not to force it where it’s not wanted.
Also check that drain hose is attached well to the air cond side, and / or isn’t aged and brittle / cracked to allow the leaking to occur.
1
FollowupID: 896446

Reply By: Member - Michael P (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 09:07

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 09:07
Barry Hi,
Had a similar thing some years ago from small leaf build up. Had a length of clear tube that fitted inside the drain hose, a simple blow back would clear the blockage for a couple of months.
Mike.
AnswerID: 623299

Follow Up By: Member BarryG - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 11:10

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 11:10
Thanks Michael,
I have blown compressed air up the drain pipe and I'll see how that goes.
Barry
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FollowupID: 896459

Reply By: RMD - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 11:57

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 11:57
Barry
Although blowing the crap back into the evaps water sump may make it drain for a while but the crap/dust is still there and vibration and wet slurry soon finds it's way to the exit hole again. Because some aircon flow exits there and is dehumidified, when sufficient crap is again dried there it will cause the same problem.
Far better to point the vehicle nose downhill and flush the rubbish out, then it can't soon happen again. Because the evaporator sump is below the evap core, that is the best place to administer some water flow, so when it is free you can flush it out through the engine bay drain.
If you can't feed flush flow through the fan resistor port to get it into the sump, then perhaps a small hole in the side wall , either burnt in by hot rod, soldering iron or carefully drilled close to but above the sump bottom will allow a syringe or washer pump to feed water in there and keep it wet and slurry like for flushing to occur. You can use the an extension of thin plastic line from the washer pump, it has one, why not use it? A dob of silastic will seal the hole and make it easy if it happens again.
PS Definitely check what Les PK said as the drain may be dislodged or cracked. If it is faulty then the job is a bit different. This isn't in vehicle handbooks.
AnswerID: 623305

Reply By: Member - Murray R (VIC) - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:05

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:05
Barry
If you have water coming out of the AC drain hose and have also cleaned it and the problem persists, you may have a leaking heater core as they usually leak on the passenger side floor. Check your coolent level and make sure its not low, if so remove the two heater hoses from the firewall and join then togerther with a joiner and hose clamps. If you still have a leak it's AC related, if it stops your heater core is leaking.
Just another possible cause.

Murray
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AnswerID: 623306

Follow Up By: Member BarryG - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:15

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:15
Murray,
I don't believe that it is the heater core. That has happened before and has been replaced. The effect of the broken heater core was my beige carpets turned light-green and slightly sticky. The core cost over $2000 to fix, with a part that was less than $150.
The drips from the aircon are definitely just water, not coolant.
I'll try RMD's suggestion to flush out via a new hole, if my work to date hasn't worked.
Barry
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FollowupID: 896465

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 15:12

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 15:12
If it was coolant you would smel it soon enough.
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FollowupID: 896474

Reply By: swampy - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:39

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:39
HI
Condensate often forms on aircon duct work .
Check drain for blockage .
This suggests other items maybe causing issues
Does your model have a cabin filter ??
Is it clean and condition ??

Inspect the air in side of evap for blockage but without a pre filter--
All evaporators need cleaning every 100,000 km
A dirty evaporator most likely to corrode and leak other wise
AnswerID: 623307

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 15:16

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 15:16
A leaking evaporator will leak refrigerant, which is a gas and the low pressure switch of the system will turn off the compressor very soon after the gas leak begins. Therefore NO aircon.

Cleaning a cooler core may be needed sometimes but every 100,000km? If it isn't dirty/blocked/restricted then having no issue means no cleaning needed doesn't it? The way it is used determines the frequency of any cleaning service surely.
1
FollowupID: 896475

Follow Up By: swampy - Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 00:01

Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 00:01
HI
Pulled many a tradies evap core B4 100,000. There are some that tend not to block but rare . Dirt and moisture can corrode evaps easily . If u are wanting to keep your car in good condition evap cleans are a service item .At the same time fans and duct work is cleaned . Some are easily accessed ,some canbe inspected with a remote camera . As the owners manual states inspect clean in more hazardous conditions and do as required .
Prevention by cleaning is far better than a non functioning aircon .

Done container cranes /taxis/cop cars / fire trucks /light planes / mining equipment and 4wd . etc etc
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FollowupID: 896555

Reply By: Member - Lyncol - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 16:46

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 16:46
Yes all of these suggestions will work but only a temporary fix, the vehicle is 14 years old so a lot of dust etc will be imbedded in the evaporator which is about 100mm thick with very small fins, the only way to do it is to remove it which will have to be done by a qualified person. I always leave my vents on fresh so it pressurises the vehicle so keeps the dust out if following someone then stop for a break!!
AnswerID: 623310

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 17:14

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 17:14
Barry isn’t complaining about loss of cooling performance, only water leaks. Going to the trouble of cleaning the evap core isn’t going to remedy his leak.
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FollowupID: 896478

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 22:46

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 22:46
If the vents are set to FRESH, ie, outside air flowing in, yes it does pressurize the cab slightly but that inward airflow is where the dust is coming straight into the air con core.
If set on recirc, then that flow doesn't have dust from outside coming straight into the core. Air gets to dry the people out too much if all all inflow set that way that way.
1
FollowupID: 896487

Follow Up By: Member - Lyncol - Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:14

Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:14
I was just giving Barry some more information about his particular problem !
Having my own auto electrical and air conditioning business in the wheatbelt of W.A.for 40 years in July where I mainly work on large ag machinery , 4wds etc I have cleaned out countless evaporators from 75 , 79, 100 series cruisers and other vehicles and majority tell me they run ac on recycle this sucks in the dust straight into the evaporator (,including dog hair, plastic bags and some other items) . So I explain to them about the fresh mode and problem solved! Air con removes hot air from the cab as well as moisture therefore you dry out( physics of refrigerated air conditioners. ) Anyway, I hope you solve your problem Barry.
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Follow Up By: Member BarryG - Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:40

Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:40
I usually run my A/C on Fresh. Only flick to Recirc for oncoming road trains, etc.
Barry
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FollowupID: 896496

Follow Up By: Member BarryG - Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:42

Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:42
Lyncol,
You say you have cleaned out evaporators from 100 Series. It looks to me as though the dash has to come out in order to remove the evaporator or even to get the front cover off. Is that your experience?
Barry
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FollowupID: 896497

Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:58

Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 11:58
.
A few years ago I needed to replace the A/C evaporator in my vehicle. Upon removal the old evaporator could be seen to be significantly blocked in its lower region by well-embedded mud. There was also mud in the bottom corners of the casing. Mind you, up to that time it was still working OK.
The evaporator is a rather fragile component so go carefully about mud removal.

****************************************************************************

My view of Fresh/Recycle air operation is that in my Troopy with its ageing door seals, some pressurisation helps to keep the dust out. Otherwise it shows up at the bottom of the front doors and all-round the rear doors.

The air intake is above the bonnet in front of the windscreen so I doubt there is much dusty air at this location. So mostly I drive on 'Fresh' for pressurisation.

The exception is where other traffic causes dust ahead, so I then revert to Recycle. Also, if the outside ambient is so hot & humid that the aircon struggles, I then run on Recycle and accept the dust ingress.
Cheers
Allan

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Reply By: Member - Lyncol - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 18:29

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 18:29
Maybe!! But experience tells me that the evaporator will be partly blocked with crap if left then moisture can’t get out, water builds up and freezes the core! Barry does the air con start to get less the more you drive and have a musty smell when first turned on?
AnswerID: 623312

Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 19:49

Sunday, Jan 20, 2019 at 19:49
.
A bit tangential but many AC's produce a "musty smell" when first turned on. It is due to bacteria growing on airways and particularly the evaporator. See here.
If you observe, you will note that the smell is minimal or undetectable if the airflow is established without the cooling. This is because the bacteria is now dry and odourless. Very soon after the cooling is engaged the odour commences due to chill and condensation on the evaporator and other surfaces wetting the bacteria.

If the condensate accumulates on the floor of the evaporator chamber and remains upon switch-off due to drainage problems, then there is greater opportunity for bacterial growth. But the design of some housings also seem to encourage the condition, even when new.
Cheers
Allan

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Reply By: Member - Lyncol - Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 15:59

Monday, Jan 21, 2019 at 15:59
Hi Barry, no you don’t have to remove the dash as such, but it is not a fun job thats why I get paid the big bucks , LOL. It will have to be degassed first. I would be getting a quote first if you want to go down that path,new evaporator about 200+ to give you an idea I’m only saying this because of the age of the vehicle, anyway back to work, let me know how you got on
AnswerID: 623326

Reply By: Member - IndroCruiser - Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 01:16

Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 01:16
For what it is worth, I had similar symptoms -- wet footwell on pax side -- in my 2006 Landcruiser Sahara TD 4.2 about 6 months ago. There also was water dripping into the fuse and electrics area behind the cover on the LHS of the footwell. This caused quite a bit of electrical mayhem until it dried out! After multiple efforts to address various airconditioning possibilities much as described in some earlier replies by other Members, and also after checking the drains from sunroof side channels, suspicion fell on the windscreen -- which is still original. The wipers and vent cover in front of the windscreen were removed and with the help of a hose, a small leak in the then 12 years old sealant around the windscreen was found, fixed and all has been fine ever since. This may have nothing to do with your vehicle but it seemed worth mentioning, given the similarities in symptoms and vehicles.
2006 Toyota HDJ100 Landcruiser Sahara 4.2 T/D - AHC/TEMS, BFG A/T 275/65R17, ARB Deluxe Bar, Kaymar Single Wheel Carrier, ARB Intensity lights

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AnswerID: 623365

Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:53

Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:53
Good points mentioned there, re, sun roof and windscreen. Not always considered as possible.
Odd things can happen.
An while back a new Commodore in my town had leaks and until the 4th windscreen was replaced to find the leak into footwell, the windscreen people found 130 missing spotwelds around the windscreen aperture. After spots were done and another new windscreen, the then new vehicle was ok and didn’t leak or make funny creaking noises anymore.
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Follow Up By: Member - David M (SA) - Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 11:40

Thursday, Jan 24, 2019 at 11:40
I know I have mentioned this before, but. When getting the windscreen replaced on the Toyota it pays to check they use the correct plastic coated rivets and not self taper screws.
Using screws allows water to seep into the fuse box in the foot well causing big problems.
Dave.
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FollowupID: 896565

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