Disappearing Clutch

Submitted: Sunday, May 19, 2019 at 22:14
ThreadID: 138353 Views:1138 Replies:5 FollowUps:7
G,day,
approx 20000k ago i had my clutch replaced (2012 BT50) with a HD clutch industries unit. Ive had an issue with my clutch seems to go missing, (pedal to the floor, cannot select gears) after a short period it will return and seem ok. its going in for a service and clutch will be looked at but just wondering what peoples thoughts are on this. Hoping this is a slave cylinder issue (air in system maybe?) but im gonna be pissed if the clutch is on the way out. thoughts please.
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Reply By: RMD - Sunday, May 19, 2019 at 22:50

Sunday, May 19, 2019 at 22:50
It isn't the clutch. It can only be the Master / Slave with air in it.
Try and follow this.
IF the primary Port in the Master (small hole approx 1mm dia) is gunged or restricted AND you let the clutch out quickly, the fluid cannot return to Master quick enough, and air is drawn into the slave or master, most likely master. Then it compresses and no clutch actuation. If drawn into Master past rear cup it will then possibly bleed itself and action will return. If this is happening, then as you check the reservoir Cap seal, you may hear a slight puff/sigh as built up air pressure escapes. Has to be very quiet to hear it.

Make sure the small primary port, forward most hole is clean/ed. I did a mcycle one recently and used a nylon wire brush bristle. DoNot Press clutch while cleaning bristle is in the hole. It will damage the primary seal cup. Hope you solve it.
PS you may need to first of all, wash out the Master reservoir if it is dirty. If quite dirty then servicing hasn't been done properly or at all.
AnswerID: 625613

Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, May 20, 2019 at 10:06

Monday, May 20, 2019 at 10:06
The only other thing I can think of is:
When the clutch was done and bleeding completed, the master will have been driven full stroke. IF, there is some congealed gunk in the pressure side of the master cup then it may get caught and lift the cup edge, causing total loss of pressure buildup and nothing at full stroke/clutch fully down
Remedy is to flush system or remove master for a clean out.
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FollowupID: 899301

Follow Up By: Zippo - Monday, May 20, 2019 at 11:10

Monday, May 20, 2019 at 11:10
Agree. The only other variation is a damaged cup. But if you're dismantling the m/cyl I'd always fit a new kit anyway - but being a sceptic I'd keep the old bits for a while ...
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FollowupID: 899303

Reply By: Batt's - Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 02:06

Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 02:06
Sounds like air bleed clutch see how it goes before pulling everything else apart.

Just wondering how many k's on speedo when clutch was replaced not a very old vehicle.
AnswerID: 625655

Reply By: Member - downhilly - Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 19:25

Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 19:25


Has a split in it.
AnswerID: 625664

Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 20:39

Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 20:39
If it has a split in that device and it is part of the clutch system then it would be piddling brake fluid at every clutch Press. Is it really the issue?l
That does not look like it has the integrity to be a pressure line for a clutch. If it is, the quality of peripheral components has deteriorated very badly.
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FollowupID: 899327

Follow Up By: Mogul - Friday, May 24, 2019 at 18:12

Friday, May 24, 2019 at 18:12
This is becoming a common problem with the 2012 / 2013 BT50'S.
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FollowupID: 899365

Follow Up By: Ron N - Friday, May 24, 2019 at 19:37

Friday, May 24, 2019 at 19:37
I'll wager it's got a Ford part number on it, and the Ford bean counters have been at it, again - cutting the costs of manufacturing!!

Mate has a 2016 BT-50, he says virtually every second part on it, has a Ford part number on it!

(EDIT - posted this before I saw Moguls post at the bottom! If it's $30 from Ford, I'll wager they make it for $3.00!)

Cheers, Ron.
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FollowupID: 899368

Reply By: Ron N - Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 21:16

Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 21:16
Some good advice on bleeding the Ranger/Mazda clutch hydraulics in the video below.
If you carry out a proper air-removing bleed as shown in the video, and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor on a regular basis, then I'd suggest your clutch master cylinder is buggered, and the main rubber cup is worn and collapsing, and letting fluid past it.

Cheers, Ron.

AnswerID: 625666

Follow Up By: axle - Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 13:15

Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 13:15
Ditto Ron!, And bin the the old master cyl,and buy a newie,!, not worth stuffing around with kits these days.


Cheers Axle.
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FollowupID: 899334

Reply By: Member - downhilly - Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 15:55

Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 15:55
Thanks for the responce guys, but im pretty confident its that damper in the clutch line which is straight off the pedal right behind the motor on the firewall. must have only been a small crack/split but got bigger yesterday id say due to the fact ended up with no clutch at all as its pissing out from this part which was easily picked up after removing the engine cover. Got a tow home, now just the wait for the part. Thx again.
AnswerID: 625673

Follow Up By: Mogul - Friday, May 24, 2019 at 18:14

Friday, May 24, 2019 at 18:14
Order part from Ford as they are around $30 Mazda wanted nearly $300.
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FollowupID: 899366

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