Swap a 1995 80 Series 1FZ-FE with a 2001 100 Series 1FZ-FE compl motor

Submitted: Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 00:53
ThreadID: 138513 Views:728 Replies:5 FollowUps:7
Hi all!
Can someone give me good info.
My 1995 80 Series - 1FZ-ME 4477 engine is in need of a rebuild before I head away of a cruise of OZ.

I have been offered a 2001 Series 100 - 1FZ-FE 4477 (Dual Fuel) COMPLETE MOTOR (NO AUTO TRANS, BELL HOUSING or TORQUE CONVERTER).
It has LPG already fitted along with LPG tank (still certified in date) and all hardware, to swap into my 80 series.

Would swapping the engines over be a straight fit to engine mounts and bolt up to my existing 4x4 - 4 speed Auto Tranny, Bell Housing and Torque Converter or would I encounter problems and bigger dollars in attempting to do a swap over as this one.

Can the existing 80 series ECU and Wiring Loom be used in the swap over or would I have to source ones to fit the 2001 series 100 1FZ-FE 4477 motor.

Being of the same motor family (the 1FZ-FE 4477) - (no hands on experience in engine swaps like this one), I would have thought that a swap over would not be too big a challenge.

The donor engine offered, I can buy from a guy doing a diesel conversion to his 100 series.and I can obtain the complete motor and LPG from him for $1500.00

I have heard and seen the motor running and it purrs beautifully.
I have looked online for info about doing a engine swap like this but not much detail is given as to my topic question.

I don't want to pay out the $$$'s if I cannot do the swap over.

I could buy the motor anyway and on-sell it, for more than what I can buy it for.
The $$$'s obtained for the motor might cover the cost of rebuilding my original 80 series.
What to do for the best and not be ripped off.
Your info, suggestions, recommendations and advice will be greatly appreciated.
I have to make a decision on getting the motor this weekend as he is going o pull the motor and prep it for advertising for sale.
I need to know for certain that the swap over can be done without huge problems and more dollars than I can budget for.
Thank you all.
I look forward to some help on this question.

Phil T4
Perth, Western Australia
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Reply By: Joe Fury - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 05:58

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 05:58
G'day Phill T4

You have not made mention trying to source relevant information on the proposed engine exchange from other web sites, maybe you have not heard of these Land Cruiser specific sites, but I'd be very surprised if you haven't.

Have a surf on Offroad 80s or Ihatemud or 4x4earth or land cruiser owners or even the Face book site for 80 and 100 series cruisers.

Or simply do a Youtube search.

There is a wealth of useful information specific to your proposed project.

Safe travels : Joe
AnswerID: 626162

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 10:01

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 10:01
Phil , Just as a side mention, LPG is getting harder to find these days. Servos are dumping it due to low sales volumes because of the high cost of the gas these days and the high cost of compliance. Ford and Holden in their last locally made models, Falcon and Commodore/ Caprice sold cars that were LPG only and while the idea was good, sales were poor due to the above reasons. Do some research on cost and availability of LPG, it may save you a lot of pain fitting it up for little or no gain. I'm sure you would need to have the LPG system re certified if moved to another vehicle also. regards, Michael.
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Follow Up By: mechpete - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:23

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:23
I have a straight LPG falcon BF an goin somewhere out of state
I have to be very cautious about LPG out lets .the new roadhouses are not putting it in so I have to go off the HWYs into the towns to find it

don,t go with LPG .
cheers mechpete
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FollowupID: 899869

Reply By: Ron N - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 10:38

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 10:38
Phil, you cannot do any LPG installation work unless you are a certified LPG installer, licenced by the Office of Energy Safety - and the installation then has to be certified with a State Govt-issued certification plate.

On top of that, if you replace your engine with another engine with a different engine number, your vehicle then has to be re-inspected by a vehicle examiner at a registered Vehicle Inspection Station.
The vehicle inspection fee in W.A. for engine replacement is currently $116.

Once LPG is fitted to a vehicle, this means a change in licence details to record the vehicle as LPG -powered.
Being powered by LPG affects the insurance premium part of your vehicle licence, and it is needed for statistical purposes as the Govt keeps track of the number of LPG-powered vehicles.

In addition, when LPG is fitted, red diamond "LPG" stickers are issued that need to be fitted to your number plates to show the vehicle is LPG-powered.
This helps emergency responders to rapidly recognise LPG-powered vehicles, and take appropriate response steps, particularly in case of fire.

Overall, I would not recommend the swap, as it's not really a viable swap, due to the amount of hidden costs.
There may also be other LPG components such as the LPG regulator/vapouriser, that need repair or replacement.

The regulator has coolant running through it, and is prone to corrosion as it's effectively part of the cooling system.
If the coolant has become degraded, then corrosion has commenced in many areas, particularly where light alloys are located.
The regulator also contains many rubberised components that degrade with age and use - such as the diaphragm, rubber hoses, and valves.

If I were you, I'd sell the LPG engine and fix your engine, knowing then, that you have a fully rebuilt engine, which is going to be reliable and efficient, and give you good service.

Installing an LPG system in a vehicle without proper licencing, without an LPG certification plate, and without registering the engine and LPG changeover will effectively render your vehicle unroadworthy and leave you liable to charges and the possibility of being sued for damages if you're involved in any accident with the vehicle, where someone is injured.

The Motor Injury Insurance, covered by the Insurance Commission of W.A., which is paid as part of your vehicle registration fees, will be invalid if you fail to register your vehicle as LPG-powered with a different engine. Thus if someone is injured as result of a crash, you will then be liable for any costs associated with their injury (or death).
As you can probably understand, this liability can possibly run into hundreds of thousands of dollars, and even millions, and you wouldn't want to incur that risk.

Cheers, Ron.
AnswerID: 626168

Follow Up By: Phil T4 - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 11:16

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 11:16
Hi Ron,
thank you for you reply, info & advise.
I am aware of the LPG requirements as to re-certification, red diamond stickers, etc as you have outlined.
These are factors that I have been factoring in with the pros n cons and would be address 'if' I went down the road of this engine change over.
Rest assured Ron, that I would NOT be doing the transplant my self, it would be done by a fully qualified mechanic and done to required statutory regulations and requirements.
I have been doing loads of trips down south to my property I am renovating 900 km round trip maybe 2 times a month +.
My question is not re: the LPG side - I could have that removed completely and sell the LPG off.
The question I am asking is transplanting the newer 1FZ-FE into my 80 series and run it as a designated petrol engine.
Not LPG certification etc etc.
Just the different engine number inspection not a big deal at $116 for the inspection in W.A.
I'm on a disability pension so I have to look at keeping my outlay costs down hence any 'major work' needing to be done on my 80 would have to handled by qualified mechanics
I don't know yet what it would cost for a engine rebuild on my existing 1HZ-FE My guess is that I'll need to be sitting down when I'm told the cost. :-)
A complete newer motor for $1500 is a good price from what I have seen of prices being asked for 2nd hand donor engines
I have head n seen the donor engine mentioned running in the original 100 series he owns and it is a solid operating unit.
Been well serviced and maintained by the 1 owner from new.
His doing a diesel conversion of his 100 series in prep to head off to explore OZ next year.
But hey! I'm looking at options.
If I can get my motor fixed for $1500 then sure I'd go that route.
Much appreciate your reply and I do further appreciate you stating the legal requirements, which I agree, do and must to be insisted on when doing engine swap out and or LPG work etc.
So, the question still remains - will a 100 series drop straight into a 80 series etc as outlined in my original post.
Cheers and have a great weekend.
Phil

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FollowupID: 899864

Follow Up By: Ron N - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:06

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:06
Hi Phil - Ahh well, that clears up the LPG question, then. In answer to your question - will the 100 series 1FZ-FE drop straight into an 80 series - the answer is a qualified, "Yes, but not without some modifications".

Your "early series" ('93-'97) 1FZ-FE is fitted with a distributor. Depending on the model it could have either a carburettor, or be fuel injected. The GXL and VX are the fuel injected versions.
The "later series" 1FZ-FE ('98-'07) received a host of major engine upgrades, and it is fitted with direct coil ignition (no distributor).

The later series 1FZ-FE got a redesigned head, more compact pistons, updated throttle body, an improved intake manifold with longer intake runners, 4 nozzle fuel injectors to improve fuel atomization - and the direct ignition - all of which led to a small power increase. The early 1FZ-FE made 212HP, the later 1FZ-FE made 221HP.
The later 1FZ-FE was also fitted with other revised engine components/accessories such as a larger power steering reservoir, modified intake ducting, and of course, a different ECU.

Now, this is where the difficulties will come in - finding out all the precise electronic/electrical/wiring differences between the two models.
As they say, nothing's impossible, if you want to throw lots of money at the project.

But one thing I've found, after buying and owning many new Toyotas since 1977, those Japanese engineers are buggers for changing designs, simply because they can.

I can recall one of my LN-106 Hiluxes needing a replacement wiper blade and arm. When I went to buy it, I had to specify the exact MONTH of build, as well as the year - because there were THREE different wiper blades and arms for the LN-106, in the one year of build!

So, all I can advise you is - yes, it is possible to do the swap. The engine will bolt in.
But - No, I don't know exactly what electrical/electronic/wiring needs to be altered/upgraded or changed, to get the engine operational.
If you acquire the 100 series engine wiring loom and ECU as part of the deal, that's a big step forward. Making it all fit and work, is another question again.

It could run into some serious money - we're talking Toyota 4WD's here.
It will almost certainly require a dedicated mechanic, with extensive Toyota engineering/design knowledge, to do the swap.

If I were you, I would on-sell the 100 series engine at a profit and either - 1. Pour the profit into a rebuild of your current engine - or, 2. Buy a low-km, '93-'97 1FZ-FE import engine. The low-km import engines are a much cheaper option to a full rebuild.

A low-km import (these are always in quite good nick) will run to about $2750-$3000 (plus installation costs).
A rebuild of your engine will set you back around $5000, without removal/installation costs.
A good quality engine kit (pistons,rings, bearings, gaskets) is around $1000, a reconditioned head is around $1500 - so you can see where it all adds up, when it comes to a full rebuild.

The important thing to remember when replacing/rebuilding an engine, is to ensure that all hoses are replaced, and to ensure that the cooling system is in top condition.
This will mean a radiator service at least, and perhaps a new radiator, if the old radiator is deemed to be suspect.

Cheers, Ron.
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FollowupID: 899873

Follow Up By: Phil T4 - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 16:12

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 16:12
Hi Ron,
I just put an UPDATE on my Thread.

Copy here for your info.
I do appreciate your frank and honest comments and I looked at juts getting a 80 series 1FZ-FE as you suggested.
I could get one from QLD freighted here for under 2k - a good runner and sound motor - would only need the Inspection for engine change over.
Thank you again and I'll see what the problem really is before looking for another motor as indicated in my Thread UPDATE.
Cheers Phil

Thread UPDATE for your info:

UPDATE:

Hi all,
after reading your comments, information and suggestion.

I have decided wait and locate a good running 80 series 1FZ-FE ) if I do in fact need a full engine rebuild) that will be a straight forward transplant without any 'hidden unknowns' as indicated in some comments received.

I'm getting a constant knocking sound in the motor when idling, revving slowly and when driven, so for now I'll put it on stands and go over every area of the engine and see if I can isolate the problem.

It sounds to my untrained mind that it could be just piston rod bearings needing replacing.
I may just be a simple fix - fingers crossed.
Well see in time to come and will update my post with outcome at a later time..

Thank you much for all your informed comments, advise and suggestions.

A 'SPECIAL THANK YOU' to Ron for your detailed comments, advise, information, suggestions in your replies.
Very much appreciated

Keep em rolling.

Cheers
Phil
1
FollowupID: 899877

Reply By: Gbc.. - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:05

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:05
It isn't a stupid amount of money for a newly completely rebuilt one ($4.5k). You should get another 20+ stress free years out of it again.

https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35397
AnswerID: 626173

Follow Up By: Member - Tony H (touring oz) - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:22

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 12:22
That's US$ plus freight.....somewhat prohibitive
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Follow Up By: Ron N - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:27

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:27
GBC - You've linked to an American website, and it is not economic to freight in a reconditioned engine from America.

The US$4490 price converts to AUD$6500 - the freight component involves freight cost from the reconditioner to the port, crating charges, shipping charges, LCL (less-than-container load) charges, Quarantine and Customs inspection and recording fees, bond warehouse transport and storage fees (your item is taken to a Customs warehouse upon arrival for Quarantine and Customs inspection and approval for importation), Port charges, Port Security charges, and Freight Forwarder or Custom Brokers fees.

I've been there and done that, a number of times, and I can assure you, the reaming with importation is extensive and thorough.

As an example, I bought a large earthmover transmission (pallet load - and 450kg) from South Carolina, for $1800 - when I finally loaded it into my ute at Fremantle, the total cost was $3400. That was around 8 years ago, too. All costs have gone up, since then.

If Customs/Quarantine find even a sniff of asbestos in the engine (some gaskets still contain asbestos), you won't even get the engine, it will be re-exported, at your cost.

Cheers, Ron.
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FollowupID: 899875

Follow Up By: Gbc.. - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:52

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 14:52
Yep, my blue, I assumed it was a local site. I was getting excited too. $6.5k odd bought a Spanker long motor from the dealer last I looked in the early 2000’s.
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FollowupID: 899876

Reply By: Phil T4 - Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 16:05

Thursday, Jun 13, 2019 at 16:05
UPDATE:

Hi all,
after reading your comments, information and suggestion.

I have decided wait and locate a good running 80 series 1FZ-FE ) if I do in fact need a full engine rebuild) that will be a straight forward transplant without any 'hidden unknowns' as indicated in some comments received.

I'm getting a constant knocking sound in the motor when idling, revving slowly and when driven, so for now I'll put it on stands and go over every area of the engine and see if I can isolate the problem.

It sounds to my untrained mind that it could be just piston rod bearings needing replacing.
I may just be a simple fix - fingers crossed.
Well see in time to come and will update my post with outcome at a later time..

Thank you much for all your informed comments, advise and suggestions.

A 'SPECIAL THANK YOU' to Ron for your detailed comments, advise, information, suggestions in your replies.
Very much appreciated

Keep em rolling.

Cheers
Phil
AnswerID: 626178

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