Rust Prevention????????

Looking at getting the Eletronic Rust Prevention done on the Jackaroo. Went to the Bris. show and the two that were there were ERPS and CouplerTec. Both about the same price for 4 Couplers fitted ($645). Has anyone heard any bad/good reports about either of these outfits. ERPS are on the Gold Coast (which is a pain to get to) and CouplerTec is at Moorooka (just around the corner). Any opinions??
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - Roachie- Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 17:43

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 17:43
I've got the Counter-Act (now CouplerTec) on the Patrol; fitted it myself. Only used 2 pads, one on the firewall and the other in the rear quarter panel.
It's a 2000 model and so far no rust (wouldn't bloody wanna bee any, would there??).

Can't say whether it's worth it or not; ask me again in 10 years. LOL

Good luck.

AnswerID: 63615

Follow Up By: Brew69 - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 20:17

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 20:17
Roachie........that sounds like my tiger deterrent i use in the back a treat.....never seen one yet.
FollowupID: 324847

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie- Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:42

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:42
Exactly right, mate.....

Bit like my ShuRoo too...... It's a great accessory, but they should've called it "ShuAllAnimals" cos I haven't hit any elephants, zebras or anything else since I fitted it. LOL

We can't tell whether any of these gadgets "work"; only if they "don't work"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FollowupID: 324863

Follow Up By: floyd - Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 18:36

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 18:36
While you are there get a couple of Hyclones. I here that they work well.
FollowupID: 324946

Reply By: Baz (NSW) - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 18:05

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 18:05
There has been alot of talk about this on the forum, do a search should find some threads on this subject, myself can't seem to get my head around it, a electonic device stopping rust !! i'm not saying it doesn't work just can't get my head around it. Ya know !!#$@

AnswerID: 63618

Reply By: Member - Brian (Gold Coast) - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 18:31

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 18:31
Theres a third player, they advertise weekly in the Trading Post.... I have one of their systems, its a cheapy and you know how it goes...."Pay Peanuts.....Get Monkeys!!!"... I wouldn't buy another one.

If I had the dough I would go for the Coupler-Tec...... Just my opinion
AnswerID: 63625

Reply By: Member - Lawrence (WA) - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 19:07

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 19:07
Hi all,

I am by no means any sort of expert; however as part of some studies I undertook a few years ago corrosion control was an important part. The question was asked of one of the lecturers “can we use corrosion control procedures on our cars” in either form passive or active, the answer was yes and no.

Yes: it may have a benefit however it would be extremely limited.

The no part is, the problem lies in how a vehicle is manufactured. There are many seams and overlapping metal components, all of which will trap moisture. Due to the structure of steel (its chemical composition) it is naturally prone to corrosion. (this is a very simplistic answer to this question)

If you do a web search on corrosion control. you will be able to make an informed dicision.

AnswerID: 63631

Reply By: Rosco - Bris. - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 19:47

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 19:47
Some ppls say it's the duck's nuts ... others say snake oil. Take your pick.

Personally, I'm a sceptic.. but then again I'm an agnostic.
AnswerID: 63638

Reply By: ToyMotor - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 20:01

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 20:01
If only it was that easy....These devices would work very well - if your vehicle is permanently underwater. I heard they also work if you have hiclones fitted! But seriously, check out the science behind these claims - active anti-corrosion systems are common on boats, jetties, and the like (so are passive systems, using sacrificial zinc anodes) but won't do zip on a vehicle. Otherwise don't you think they would be used on steel bridges, etc.? But they're not - instead, a great deal of effort is expended to keep the things painted!

AnswerID: 63643

Reply By: Eric Experience. - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:13

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:13
Please read the previos posts on this, the most efective way to rust a car is to wash it with strong detergent, when the car is built a rust inhibitor either tar or wax is placed in the folded seams where the piant cant go. The car wash sales people who make a strong product that "removes tar and grime in an instant" are ripping the manufactues wax or tar out of your seams, and the most loved and washed cars start rusting first. If you are concerned about rust place some fish oil in you doors and sills and if you use a detergent in you windscreen washers change to an aproved aditive. The other important thig to do is to remove the screws that hold the bottom of your front mudguards to the sill and spring the guards out about 10 mm and then tip a bucket of water into the plenum chamber, this will flush out the mulch that will rust out the guards. A lot cheaper and fully garanteed to work, and does not flatten your battery. Eric.
AnswerID: 63670

Follow Up By: Member - Bradley- Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 21:43

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 21:43
Yep spot on Eric, Most of the strong 'truckwashes' around are bulked up with salts to make them nice and thick, thats why they leave that residue on the glass, and rust the panels / chalk the paint.

A good tip on the guards there as well.

Valvoline make a good aerosol spray pack of their Tectyl product , a bees wax and corr inhib product, just remember to heat the can in some hot water before trying to spray it !

F.u.c.h.s also have a great truckwash under their polo brand, it is salt free and has orange oil etc in it, doesn't promote rust. leaves the glass spotless too.

A good question to ask the 'salesman' of the electronic gear is 'how can it hold a capacitance charge on the body when the body is permanently grounded to the batt?' They can never answer this one..
FollowupID: 324977

Reply By: itldoo - Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:36

Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 at 22:36
I personally have only heard of the ERPS Unit, in their range of products they have sprays etc to cover seams & inside door trims .Find an agent in your area for this product & talk to them or check out ERPS's web page & email the company. We had the experience to apply the ERPS to a Coucil Surf Life Saving Vehicle & the vehicle held up well, but the vehicle springs had to be replaced. Cheaper for coucil than a new vehicle.
AnswerID: 63675

Reply By: Member - Nobby - Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 08:22

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 08:22
Thanks for the advice all. It's a bit like the "Tiger in the back yard" theory. You only know if it doesn't work when one is there. I reckon for $645 it's a small price to protect a $40K investment that I plan to hold onto for some time. CouplerTec offer a 10 year warranty, which sounds pretty good to me. We already have the Jack rust proofed by Ming, but reports say I may as well pi** on the car, so this is just an added insurance.
AnswerID: 63702

Follow Up By: Brian - Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 12:15

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 12:15
Just remember that your ten year warranty is calculated from the age of your vehicle e.g. 6 year old vehicle = 4 year warranty that is why I went for the EPRS system.
Brian Adshead

My Profile  Send Message

FollowupID: 324901

Follow Up By: Goran - Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 00:21

Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 00:21
Mate, 10 years is a lot of time to put up with Jackaroo. Don't get that system, let it rust so you can buy Toyota in couple of years.
FollowupID: 324995

Follow Up By: Member - Nobby - Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 10:19

Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 10:19
Brian first.. The Jack is only 4 years old so that gives me 6y "warranty", which I suppose with all warrantys isn't worth the paper it's written on, but better than none.
Goran.. I got rid of a Tojo to buy the Jack and once I got over the shock of not having what every other bugger drives I have been extremely happy with the vehicle as well as the extra 30 grand in the pocket. I suppose if you want a new truck, have a lot of $, and prefer a bigger 4WD then stick with Tojo. Personally Jack goes anywhere Tojo does and with the kids gone we don't need that size. But in answer to your followup I suppose one day I'll wake up and say " what in the name of Christ have I done!!" and come back to the masses.
FollowupID: 325015

Follow Up By: Goran - Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 10:50

Saturday, Jun 19, 2004 at 10:50
If your Jack can go everywhere my Cruiser can i will eat my bullbar.
FollowupID: 325020

Reply By: Michael - Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 09:23

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 09:23
Buy a pack of peppermint Lifesavers, using the hole in the middle of the Lifesaver bolt one to the fire wall and one inside the car somewhere to something metal. This will give you the same rust protection as anything else on the market. Its much cheaper and you still have most of the pack left to munch on later!!!!!! If you want your vehicle to perform better,you can ring Peter Brock and buy a Polariser(metalic blue only), or if you want to spend less and have the same effect , you can stick a piece of aluminium foil to the firewall with double sided tape. I hope i have been of some help!!!! Michael
AnswerID: 63711

Reply By: ianmc - Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 12:19

Friday, Jun 18, 2004 at 12:19
A good quality fish oil, not a $3- spray pack pack) liberally applied over all underneath steelwork & in all cavities will last for yonks. Lots of Euro cars
have a wax protection which is guaranteed up to 10 years against penetration.

My Triton ute has been over a few beaches & outback tracks and after 220,000kms
the body is near perfect. Didnt have the full oil treatment but has been washed underneath after mostbeach drives & had a quick spray with fish oil or lanoline
AnswerID: 63751

Sponsored Links