Rust Prevention????????

I've got the Counter-Act (now CouplerTec) on the Patrol; fitted it myself. Only used 2 pads, one on the firewall and the other in the rear quarter panel.
It's a 2000 model and so far no rust (wouldn't bloody wanna bee any, would there??).

Can't say whether it's worth it or not; ask me again in 10 years. LOL

Good luck.

There has been alot of talk about this on the forum, do a search should find some threads on this subject, myself can't seem to get my head around it, a electonic device stopping rust !! i'm not saying it doesn't work just can't get my head around it. Ya know !!#$@

Baz.

Theres a third player, they advertise weekly in the Trading Post.... I have one of their systems, its a cheapy and you know how it goes...."Pay Peanuts.....Get Monkeys!!!"... I wouldn't buy another one.

If I had the dough I would go for the Coupler-Tec...... Just my opinion

Hi all,

I am by no means any sort of expert; however as part of some studies I undertook a few years ago corrosion control was an important part. The question was asked of one of the lecturers “can we use corrosion control procedures on our cars” in either form passive or active, the answer was yes and no.

Yes: it may have a benefit however it would be extremely limited.

The no part is, the problem lies in how a vehicle is manufactured. There are many seams and overlapping metal components, all of which will trap moisture. Due to the structure of steel (its chemical composition) it is naturally prone to corrosion. (this is a very simplistic answer to this question)

If you do a web search on corrosion control. you will be able to make an informed dicision.

Lawrence

Some ppls say it's the duck's nuts ... others say snake oil. Take your pick.

Personally, I'm a sceptic.. but then again I'm an agnostic.

If only it was that easy....These devices would work very well - if your vehicle is permanently underwater. I heard they also work if you have hiclones fitted! But seriously, check out the science behind these claims - active anti-corrosion systems are common on boats, jetties, and the like (so are passive systems, using sacrificial zinc anodes) but won't do zip on a vehicle. Otherwise don't you think they would be used on steel bridges, etc.? But they're not - instead, a great deal of effort is expended to keep the things painted!

Cheers

Nobby.
Please read the previos posts on this, the most efective way to rust a car is to wash it with strong detergent, when the car is built a rust inhibitor either tar or wax is placed in the folded seams where the piant cant go. The car wash sales people who make a strong product that "removes tar and grime in an instant" are ripping the manufactues wax or tar out of your seams, and the most loved and washed cars start rusting first. If you are concerned about rust place some fish oil in you doors and sills and if you use a detergent in you windscreen washers change to an aproved aditive. The other important thig to do is to remove the screws that hold the bottom of your front mudguards to the sill and spring the guards out about 10 mm and then tip a bucket of water into the plenum chamber, this will flush out the mulch that will rust out the guards. A lot cheaper and fully garanteed to work, and does not flatten your battery. Eric.

I personally have only heard of the ERPS Unit, in their range of products they have sprays etc to cover seams & inside door trims .Find an agent in your area for this product & talk to them or check out ERPS's web page & email the company. We had the experience to apply the ERPS to a Coucil Surf Life Saving Vehicle & the vehicle held up well, but the vehicle springs had to be replaced. Cheaper for coucil than a new vehicle.

Thanks for the advice all. It's a bit like the "Tiger in the back yard" theory. You only know if it doesn't work when one is there. I reckon for $645 it's a small price to protect a $40K investment that I plan to hold onto for some time. CouplerTec offer a 10 year warranty, which sounds pretty good to me. We already have the Jack rust proofed by Ming, but reports say I may as well pi** on the car, so this is just an added insurance.

Buy a pack of peppermint Lifesavers, using the hole in the middle of the Lifesaver bolt one to the fire wall and one inside the car somewhere to something metal. This will give you the same rust protection as anything else on the market. Its much cheaper and you still have most of the pack left to munch on later!!!!!! If you want your vehicle to perform better,you can ring Peter Brock and buy a Polariser(metalic blue only), or if you want to spend less and have the same effect , you can stick a piece of aluminium foil to the firewall with double sided tape. I hope i have been of some help!!!! Michael

A good quality fish oil, not a $3- spray pack pack) liberally applied over all underneath steelwork & in all cavities will last for yonks. Lots of Euro cars
have a wax protection which is guaranteed up to 10 years against penetration.

My Triton ute has been over a few beaches & outback tracks and after 220,000kms
the body is near perfect. Didnt have the full oil treatment but has been washed underneath after mostbeach drives & had a quick spray with fish oil or lanoline
occasionally!