04' LC100 IFS Lift question

I was told 35mm was the limit that ARB would do, apparently the front knuckles crack in the IFS on the 100s is that right John.

Baz.

I have a LC100 T/D IFS. I put OME T/Bars and LTRs on the front.

The critical measurement is the wheel drop (Measure the distance vertically from bottom of wheel rim through hub to body (guard) - measure on level surface then jack the vehicle from the chassis until the wheel is off the ground. Measure the distance again. The difference between the 2 measures is the wheel drop. This must be at least 60mm. If it is more, say 80mm then you can get a (in this case) 20mm lift.

The main reason for changing T'Bars isn't for the lift but rather because the OEM's sag after about 20,000ks. Add a bar & winch and it really gets bad.

The reason this is critical is because the shocks act as a stopper when the wheel drops - say into a rut etc.. If the wheel drop is too small then you will rip the shock to bits, or worse. I found some real flunkies out there who just don't know any of this and well tell you anything. I finally got this info from the ARB product specialist at ARB HQ.

I didn't measure my truck properly before hand but I reckon I got at least 30mm out of mine. Add 15-20mm when I changed tyres to 285/75/16's and I have a total lift of nearly 50mm - That's heaps on an IFS which gives you much better center ground clearance to start with.

BTW - If you can afford it I would also recommend front air lockers as they will compensate for the lack of travel and inherant weakness in the LC100 IFS front diffs. However to add front lockers you also need to have a rear one so the bill gets expensive. If you can't then take it easy in the rough stuff especially in reverse - the front diffs are known to break.

Hope this helps

Gaz

g'DAY

I got me hilux IFS V6 lifted 3 weeks back. I know its not a cruiser but it might help.
They lifted the front bout an inch with Tough Dog springs up front and Ironman foam-cell shocks. I wasnt happy with this and asked how to get more without modifying control arms etc. Off the record was told that i need to cut the bump stops at the rear of the top control arm to allow more travel on the downward direction. So I cut off 20 mm of the bump stop and winded up the torsion bar and now the suspension sits 2.5 " higher up front. I got 3" lift at the rear and cant wait to put my Wrangler MTR's on. The suspension handles terrifically and I have had the truck half a meter off the ground and no problems with the downward travel bottoming out.
Hope I helped abit mate.
catch ya

GO HARD OR GO HOME!

G'day all!

Thanks a bunch for the info.

Big help and definatly some food for thought here.

Cheers!