Lift kit torsion bar

Submitted: Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 01:48
ThreadID: 138675 Views:1684 Replies:7 FollowUps:23
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Hi there

I have a stock triton (september 2005) that i want to get lifted 2 inches. Im not too mechanical but different shops have different opinions on lifting tritons with torsion bar...some say they cant do it (apparently their just not designed to be lifted), another guy said he can replce shocks etc and just adjust the torsion bar to MAYBE get 2 inches...

I just want a little extra clearance...does anyone have any knowledge about torsion bar setups, is it possible to do a body lift and just get bigger tyres instead?

Also would it be smart to buy a suspension kit on ebay or let a shop supply and fit everything?

Cheers

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Reply By: Batt's - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 02:49

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 02:49
Most of the time you will only get 30mm - 45mm lift from IFS because it will flog out cv's and then you will have to get them replaced each time it happens. If you want a lift kit stick to the recommended lifts offered from reptuable companies TJM, ARB etc. Also learn a bit about what places your vehicle is capable of traversing by getting out into the bush, jump out of the car and have a look at how much clearance is left in different situtions you may be surprised where it can go at standard height.

After fitting a lift kit you may be able to go up a size or two in tyres as long as you stay within 50mm of the overall height of your vehicles factory tyres. Larger tyres may also rub on the mud flaps so this will need fixing if it happens. You will have to check the speedo with a gps to see how they compare to each other.

Your braking will be affected so at the minimium you may need better quality brake shoes especially if you drive in hilly country or load the vehicle up with gear if you tow or live in a large town or city where brakes are used a lot more in traffic it will be too late if they fade and you can't pull up especially when loaded.

With larger tyres your fuel econ may improve on the open road or it may get worse all round every vehicle is different you have to see what happns when there fitted for eg my econ improved by around 0.5 lph.

AnswerID: 626598

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 03:06

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 03:06
Thanks mate. Originally i didnt want a lift but last trip out bush we had to stop and turn around as the terrain got way to rough for atock height. M looking at ether dobinsons or billsteins kit (i heard mixed reviews on old man emu/ARB and thy make em in china now)

Will a body lift allow for bigger tyres or only suspension lft?

And IFS? i that what mine is? (Torsion bar etc). I definitely dont want to put any stress on the cvs i want to make it as reliable as possible
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FollowupID: 900446

Follow Up By: Batt's - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 03:52

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 03:52
ARB have a new factory in Thailand but can't see them spending millions setting it up just to sell dodgy gear and loose customers.

Yeah torsion bar my error I'm in the habbit of calling it all IFS.

I would get a price for body blocks fitted I think it may be a big job and not cheap they will help with room for tyres. Dobinsons will be able to offer good advice and a solution to suit what your after the might recommend upgrading the torsion bars with the shocks and rear springs that may be all you need..
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Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 06:28

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 06:28
Now researching IFS lifts im rethinking the whole thing. Yeh I got an offer for 2k to get ARB shocks and springs and just adjust torsion bar...decent price, But if its just gonna break in 12 months wtf
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FollowupID: 900448

Reply By: RMD - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 08:40

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 08:40
Damian
By the look of the small gap between the bump rubber on suspension arm and crossmember, it appears you have lost quite a bit of suspension height anyway. SO, are you wanting a 50mm raise from where it is now OR a 50mm raise from where it should be??????

If the kit you buy is set to raise 50mm above std height, then the final result may be 75mm, who knows. Most fitting places just fit what a supplier sells them and many don't have much insight into the problems what may be there already or they cause while fitting. If the rear is lifted, do they allow for the uni angles becoming uneven or too much drive angle and causing tailshaft vibrations?? best to check that one.

Not sure on your vehicle, but the torsion bars should be able to be adjusted to gain at least some additional height from where it is now.

Almost certainly the shocks WILL BE STUFFED because Mitsubishi never fitted shocks of any decent quality, only good quality will restore handling to the vehicle. Even new Tritons have poor shocks, take note of how they wag their tails up and down over bumps, they are like no other vehicle. I know of some early ones which crashed purely because of the non effective shock absorbers. I retrieved one which was upside down. shocks looked ok but were just ornaments.
If you are carrying a load or RTT with higher CG, then shocks will be of utmost importance.
AnswerID: 626600

Reply By: Ozjourney - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 09:25

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 09:25
Hi Damian,

I’ve been driving a Delica for over 10 years with the same front suspension set up, my advice would be just to wind up the torsion bars about 20 mm and fit larger tyres. Done over 200 Km’s with a LOT of bush driving and no problems with CV’s
You’ll need longer shocks, make sure they are suitable for the lift Dobson are good, Bilstein are doubtful IMO.
In order to keep the correct King pin angles keep the rear of the vehical slightly higher than the front.

On the rear the Delica has coils so not sure if this applies but if you jack up (I had air bags) you need to space down the rear sway bay, mine ripped off and the finally broke before I fitted some blocks under the sway bar mounts on the chassis.
You’ll also may need to adjust/ space the rear brake proportional valve.

Steve
AnswerID: 626601

Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 12:28

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 12:28
If Damian's suspension has a droop limit bracket/system, most do, then longer shocks will not be able to be used or of any use either. A longer shock has to be able to compress to the upper limit, ie, closed up, and so a longer shock would bottom internally and cause damage on full compression. All Damian need is his suspension to operate higher than before, he and the fitting person should ensure the normal suspension ride height still allows for 1/3 of total possible travel to be had for droop ability. Failing to do so means over rough ground or bumps the wheel WILL become airborne, unable to touch the ground and loss of some control will result.

Steve, Not sure why Bilstein won't do the job, I fitted them all round to my Dmax and they transformed the handling, ride ,stability and braking ability over the 5000km old OE shocks which were ineffective from NEW.
PS, King pin angle? Do you mean the caster angle? as it is a basic stability requirement to have them near correct. The actual Kingpin angle is fixed and cannot be altered in relation to the axle stub.
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FollowupID: 900468

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 18:41

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 18:41
hey mate i just wanted in general 2 inches lifted...not on top of what i have. i assumed mines all stock ATM. i just want a small lift for some ground clearance.

if i can adjust the torsion bar...upgrade to bilstein or OME shocks and maybe add bigger tyres..seems like the way to go? as long as its reliable... i heard changing angles and adding spacers etc is not smart

a mechanic with a good rep offered 2k for OME suspension upgrade with the torsion adjustment..and apparently this comes with warranty. but he hasnt actually had a look at my car, just over the phone.
im happy to post some pics
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FollowupID: 900502

Reply By: Hoyks - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 19:02

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 19:02
A 12 year old ute with a bull bar its a fair bet yours has sagged a fair bit.

Crawl under the car there will be a long rod coming back from the lower suspension A-arm. Find the end that will be around even with the front seats and there is your adjustment.
Jack up the front end to unload the suspension and you can tighten up that adjuster to twist the rod more and it will lift the front end.

You don't want to go nuts though as if it is cranked up too tight, then it will limit compression and you will be lifting wheels and losing traction anyway.

Going off the vehicle RTA Road Vehicle Descriptor, yours should be 530mm from the centre of the hub to the front guard, so that will give you some idea on how much it's sagged.
AnswerID: 626619

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 20:44

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 20:44
thanks mate ill see what it is in the morning, ill take a look under the car...so its not a huge job to adjust the torsion bar
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FollowupID: 900513

Reply By: RMD - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 19:19

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 19:19
Damian
You seem to be missing the points I was alerting you to.
Getting a 50mm lift is decided upon by a manufacturer who KNOWS the original ride height. So, If yours has sagged which is most likely, the raise you get will not be 50mm but more than that. How much more depends on where it sits now. That is why I asked you the options question, starting where, you need to be aware of that.
Relating to tailshaft angle etc. ANY alteration to the rear suspension, above where it sits when original, means the tailshaft uni angles WILL BE ALTERED by any spring pack fitted to raise the rear. "ALERT." some spring packs definitely DO NOT cater for, or allow for, the raise and do not correct the uni angle which are subsequently stuffed up by
fitting the new rear springs. Most fitters of suspensions are oblivious to the problems they cause, they are only fitters, and seem unable to detect the errors or are willing to correct the negative effects caused by those springs when the owner realises it isn't right. Just trusting one mechanics reply, sight unseen, is fraught with danger.

Perhaps lift the front via the torsion bar adjustment, perhaps add an extra leaf to rear springs to raise it a bit too and fit good quality shocks may be all you need. Everyone seems to think $$$$$'s and kits solve everything. Some advice from a competent, experienced mechanic not associated with a 4wd centre might be a very sound idea in your case.
AnswerID: 626620

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 20:41

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 20:41
sorry mate i see what u mean

ill haveto measure it in the morning, though i plan on putting 50L esky and drawers in the ute and a freezer in the cab so ill see the sagg after that

in that case...by that time if i just get it back to stock height...im sure thatd be enough? therefore i can keep the original uni angles and all that?
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Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 01:26

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 01:26
Actually id be happy to just fix the sag on the front and just leave the back.
Could i just wind the torsion bar to get stock height and leave the rear suspension and everything else alone?
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Reply By: nickb - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 21:49

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 21:49
No need to overthink it. There are thousands of 4x4s (of all brands and suspension types) with 50mm lift kits installed that have zero issues. Just stick to a reputable brand that is in your budget and you will be fine. Driving style will determine if you break things, the lift kit will have minimal influence.

Going up a size in tyres will help a little and only have a small effect on driving dynamics.
AnswerID: 626624

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 23:44

Monday, Jul 08, 2019 at 23:44
But 95% of those would be solid axle 4x4s right? From what im reading IFS systems just arent designed to be lifted without making things complicated
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FollowupID: 900520

Follow Up By: OzzieCruiser - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:14

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:14
No - most modern 4wds are now IFS and there are kits for most that work fine providing around 45mm lift when first fitted.

As said - dont make this harder than it needs to be. There is nothing special about the IFS on your car - get the standard torsion bars wound up within standard adjustments and see how you go. If not then happy go a see an reputable aftermarket suspension provider and discuss your further requirements.
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FollowupID: 900525

Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:30

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:30
Damian
You first have to determine how far your vehicle front suspension has sagged/dropped/sunk to know where you are starting from. I mentioned the small bump rubber gap.
Any IFS system, when sunk will alter the alignment and if raised it will again alter the alignment. If yours has progressively sunk down and alignment has been adjusted then it is in balance but lower.
If out of whack at the moment, simply raising by tensioning the bars more will restore the alignment. Above that level the alignment will require adjusting.

You may not need to spend thousands of $$$$'s on a kit, simply some corrective measures may suffice. You can get someone to fit a kit but it may waste some money too as it won't achieve much over a sensible attention to what is deficient at the moment. All places simply want to fit their "kit" and get rid of you for a monetary exchange.
It is your choice of course, and it is hard to decide if unsure of advice, so take your time in decision making.
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Follow Up By: nickb - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:37

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 10:37
Almost every dual cab Ute since the mid 90’s has IFS front suspension (excluding Hilux, new cruiser Ute, defender, maybe more). Even most wagons are the same (excluding patrol, cruiser, jeeps to name a few). 2” lifts have proven themselves to be very reliable over the last few decades, no need for an engineering degree!!!!

Probably best to stay away from the cheap eBay kits, people seem to get mixed results and warranty becomes a nightmare. I have found it much easier to get someone to supply and install the lot as opposed to saving money and buying online and getting someone to install it. I did this and had a front strut fail, the part was replaced no questions asked but I still needed to pay for labour and I had to do all the running around and organising.
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Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 12:03

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 12:03
Right and left sides are the same
Rear - 57cm
Front - 50.5cm


Is that the torsion bar?

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Follow Up By: Ozjourney - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 12:52

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 12:52
Looks like the steering. The torsion bars are about 1.2m long and the adjuster should be back under the floor near the gearbox.
17mm nut.
Worth measuring the adjusting bolt with a ruler before you start.
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Reply By: RMD - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 13:30

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 13:30
Damian
As Ozjourney has kindly shown, the torsion bars are fixed to the upper swing arms at its rear, with their adjustable end via short arm and screw. You must jack up the vehicle before adjusting the torsion bars. The screw adjusters will likely be a bit siezed and so a penetrating spray needs to sit there to soak in long before anyone tries to move the screws. Your picture is of the lhs steering idler arm which relays steering force to lhs wheel. Depending on the pitch of the thread and length of torsion bar adjusting arm you can try 5 turns each side, then settle the vehicle to see the new ride height. When happy an alignment will be needed.
AnswerID: 626636

Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 13:56

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 13:56
thanks. my bad. ill deffs look at heaps of videos before i do it.
so it seems like the front has sagged by 7cm!? god dam
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Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 14:20

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 14:20
Damian
What makes you think the front has sunk by 70mm????
ALL ute/commercial variants of most makes all have the rear higher than the front even when new. You probably cannot determine the amount by measuring the bodywork at the rear and the front of the sills. It isn't a car and never will be.
Perhaps research the vehicle suspension system specs to see what the front bump rubber clearance should be/was when new. A 2011 Dmax is 29mm gap there just for example. A Mitsubishi dealer should have those specs or an online workshop manual. It seems the Delica runs almost the same suspension so that is a source of what is real.

Your suspension uses a larger upper ball joint, as that is required to take the vehicle weight via the torsion bars and upper arm to the stub axle assembly.ie , holds the wheel down so the vehicle is held up.
I am not sure looking at videos will help much, I know they are popular but they are a bit like 4wd magazines. Having a knowledge of the suspension layout through reading and inspecting workshop manuals related to the issue will assist in understanding with what mods you may you want.
Still factor in good shocks though, because they allow the control of any mod, ride height, increased mass and assist in ensuring the life of wheel bearings, ball joints, suspension bushes tyres and steering.
You said in your opening line,"different shops say different things", because almost all of them are not mechanics and have little understanding of the concepts they sell, simply sales staff. Only a few know what they are doing. It is about sales, not you at all. The only reason they get it right is if it is fitted correctly and the unseen engineers who gathered together the items for the so called "product" actually know something. Even some of those have been found incorrect.
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Follow Up By: Hoyks - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 18:04

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 18:04
From the factory it should have been 530mm, so sagged 30mm.
Rear should be 620mm unladen, so its down 50mm too.

So you could easily crank the front back up the 30mm to stock height or even up to 80mm with no ill effects. All it will cost you is some time under the car and a wheel alignment would be a good idea.

I'd probably only go 50mm at the front if you aren't putting new springs in the back as it might look a bit saggy in the bum end.
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FollowupID: 900545

Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:08

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:08
Hoyks.
Where are those measurements applied to? Damian would possibly like to know, he is unsure of a few things so from where to where will assist him.
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FollowupID: 900547

Follow Up By: Hoyks - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:31

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:31
From the centre of the hub to the wheel arch.
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Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:54

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 19:54
i was looking for these measurements...their not even in manual unfortunately. appreciate it mate
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FollowupID: 900551

Follow Up By: Hoyks - Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 20:16

Tuesday, Jul 09, 2019 at 20:16
It might be in the workshop manual somewhere, I got it from the info that the RTA has on all vehicles so Mr Plod knows if your wheels are wrong or you have changed the suspension to outside the approved limits.

https://myrta.com/rvd/
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FollowupID: 900552

Follow Up By: Ozjourney - Wednesday, Jul 10, 2019 at 08:42

Wednesday, Jul 10, 2019 at 08:42
Just of interest my Delica is 530 mm too and I run 31" tyres.
IMO that's fine for this type of vehical.

Have a look at this video, though you wont' need to re-index the torsion bars but it gives you an idea of what's involved.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_D1MJx7Mhs

Steve
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Follow Up By: Damian G1 - Wednesday, Jul 17, 2019 at 01:16

Wednesday, Jul 17, 2019 at 01:16
i decided ill wait to get my esky and toolbox put in, then do the lift.
Im thinking 80cm front and 90cm in the back? By adjusting torsion bar and replacing (or adding?) all springs...
Once i put in the toolbox and esky its gonna sag even more so would this height be possible at that stage? Maybe ill go 70 front and 80cm back, still way better than what i got
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FollowupID: 900706

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