series 75 LC Ute Split Rims

Thanks Pete
So a LT 265/75 R16 123/120r would be suitable then ?
Cheers

I've used 235.85R16 on split rims successfully, and they have a slightly higher load rating than 7.50x16.

Don't think 265.75R16 will fit your split rims, that tyre size needs 7"-8" rims. Split rims still have a following, but they are heavier to carry as spares, increase unsprung weight and utilise tubes that are increasingly expensive and not always of desirable quality. Their only favourable quality is the speed with which they can be dismantled, even with a couple of screwdrivers...........

Bob

Marcus
Are you asking Peter or telling him. Please look at the tyre you have just started and it's width. A 7:50 16 is 7.5" wide. Peter suggested a 225 wide which is 1 1/2 wider and probably the limit of the rim. Now you bring into play a 265 wide tyre and want acceptance for that! 265 is MORE than 2 1/2 " wider than OE. I had 265 tyres on 16 " rims but they were wider rims than my stock splits were. Best to check out tyre sizes and the correct fitting of same for your safety and legality.

Thanks Bob
I want to keep the original rims so trying to find a cheaper alternative than 4 x new LT tyres. Will look for some used 235’s or less.
Cheers

Hi Athol, because I have never heard of this before and have used split rims now for over 45 years, can you tell me how the difference is recorded on the tyre apart from the LT235-85R16 116/120, which is all I can see. Can you also point me out to some documentation about this difference, eg a web page or reference. Apparently I have been buying, and have been sold, and have had fitted by tyre dealers, the wrong tyres since 1978. I am very interested as I currently have 4 plus 2 spares on the vehicle, plus 2 plus spare on the caravan . 9 wrong tyres fitted by Bridgestone

Mikee5

I am not aware of any particular markings, except that any tyre marked as Tubeless is definitely not designed for split rim fitment due to them lacking the 15 degree seat angle.

Regards
Athol

Yes tyre repairs with a split rim may be easier to repair in some circumstances but stick a pin in a balloon and see what happens. If the side wall is ripped out then all air will be gone from either tyre but the tube type doesn't self heal to ANY degree and so air is lost immediately. With a tubeless tyre on suitable rim size the air doesn't immediately deplete which makes steering and braking possible for a while. Tubeless, instantaneous, or almost, loss of air and then the fun starts. All not such an issue in the bush where speeds are slow but on highway I know which type of tyre/rim combination I prefer. I have owned quite a few motorcycles, tube type and tubeless, again I like the tubeless as they are safer and don't unload you suddenly. There are two ways of "hitting the road". All is ok while all is OK but when it isn't??

Tyres are marked as tubeless or tube-type, and they are not interchangeable, as Athol correctly points out.
The marking is on the tyre, it pays to read up all about tyre markings, and what they mean.

HINT: (gained from long experience). Get hold of some talc or French chalk, and shake plenty into the tyres before you install the tubes.

Talc is an excellent lubricant between tube and tyre, and it not only reduces friction and heat buildup, it will help protect the tube from being chopped up if you get a sudden flat at highway speed.

Talc will keep the tube re-useable after a high-speed stop with a flat - whereas, with no talc in the tyre, the tube will be chopped into rubber salad, by the time you come to a halt.

Cheers, Ron.