Loose goose neck

Thanks Gone Bush it's for brother he has done that still rattles.
Cheers

Thanks Pinko that looks good.
Cheers

Pinko
That is a good solution but the U bolt takes the ballweight load and is in tension, instead of the Tongue bottoming in the receiver at the rear. I would imagine it works well. Many use a bolt in a threaded hole inboard of the pin so it holds the tongue unit hard against the receiver rear bottom edge. Only force on the screw is the upward movement of the tongue which should be lesser of the two situations.

A dmax towbar has a bolt and locknut through a welded on nut on one corner so it shoves the tongue upward and sideways at the same time, it is forward of the pin. So takes any side slop and rotational slop. Just supplied that way.

Pinko,

Your picture doesn't look like a LC200 receiver.

This looks like a LC200 receiver:



Ken

Thanks Ken this looks similar as above only in reverse because there is no extension on the towbar this is most likely be the closest.
There's room for the u bolt plate to go under the towbar.
Cheers

Thanks Garry R .
It is that type of hitch he had that in mind at first but Toyota said he would loose his warranty so decided against it.
Cheers

GarryR, the hitch is built right into the chassis on a 200. You can't buy a 200 without that.

I would be very surprised if he fitted a HR as well as the standard one.

Question, is your stereo wound right up and windows closed? :)

Mmmmm ..... thanks Gbc, that seems like very good advice. I have left mine tightened, and will in future loosen it when towing. Makes sense to me.

Cheers
Jim

Perhaps possible if bolt grade is soft but never seen one mushroom. The whole idea is to have it tight and secure during travel so the undulating action and sideways movement are eliminated and receiver wear and distortion is minimized or doesn't happen at all. At the very inner most edge of my HJ61 Bar I drilled and tapped an 8mm hole and simply screwed an 8 mm bolt to make the whole thing stop moving. It left the ball weight pushing the tongue into the receiver at the rear edge where is most often is anyway. You would not leave it loose while driving it ruins the whole idea of having it in the first place. The grit people speak of in ball hitch doing a grinding paste action, also happens in the receiver IF allowed to move while driving.
The pin is designed to capture the tongue and any continual inward/outward movement and side ways movement will see the tongue and receiver pin hole become more and more loose. Having it locked down just means the pin takes shear forces as intended. No way do you want it flogging around with 2.5 or 3 ton doing it's destruction.
I have plated the sides of some receiver for people where the whole hole thing was enlarged and sleeved the tongue in some cases so suitable clearance is restored.

If any of that was the case, It would then stand to reason that the bolt should be in the top of the receiver rather than bearing the whole towball mass as a point load in the base of the hitch in front of the pin or worse, at 45 degrees from a bottom corner like some are. It takes ten minutes of towing to wreck them.

The anti rattle bolt on my towbar is behind the pin and underneath so cannot be used when towing for the reasons stated above. If it was in front of the pin it could be used while towing. Why didn't the manufacturer think of that?

Agree with Gbc. If intended to be used while towing, it should be on top if behind the pin, and underneath if in front of the pin.

It seems we are talking at cross purposes. The Bolt has to be forward of the pin and as far forward as possible. Not much effect trying to rectify the issue is possible if near or behind the pin. ie, bolt best at bottom region underneath It cannot be on top. Some thought as to the spread of forces within the receiver would be best, nothing which localizes forces to one area in the receiver is a wise move.

The whole thing becomes an inertia problem if the clearance is too great and it flogs. Shims do it, sensibly placed screw feature can also help. If there is a gap and also around the pin, it is impact wear which occurs. Far better to push start a car with a PUSH, rather than gain momentum and repetitively hit the car at 50km/hr, which is sort of like the take up, if gaps are too big.

HR Smartpin works fine for me. No rattle problems at all.

Regards

Hi the hole for pin in the towbar on the LCR200 is round does not have slots I still find it hard to take in that pushing goose neck side ways stops neck from lifting up and down.
Cheers

Allan.
You have to laugh at the wording which says you "can use the pin while towing". Anyone with a small degree of reasoning would expect a pin to be in there. The SO CALLED smart pin only sort of holds the tongue sideway and can't stop porpoising of the tongue as it tries to rotate with up and down movements . Looks fancy but hardly doing much, especially if the slop is rotation around the pin.

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Yes RMD, one can also only wonder about the bit.... "Unlike other hitch pins on the market....." which presumably can't be used whilst towing!!!!
But it is "Gold Plated". Think I'll put one in the Troopy even though I'm not towing. lol

Bit flash for the Troopy Alan.
Dave.

Gee Allan! with one of those gleaming in the hitch, the troopy will look as "flash as a rat with a gold tooth". Be careful, you may be starting a new trend!

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Ah, just like Roz, she loves a bit of bling. lol