Evakool Ridge Ryder failure??

Sounds like the wiring to your socket is too lite as is the case with most sockets fitted standard to the rear compartments.
Voltage drop can not be measured with no loaf on the circuit.

Thanks for the replies. I should have added that the fridge struggles to hold temp (and fail light comes on) during the hotter part of the day. There is an appropriate open space around vents.

Tlax,

As well as what has been suggested, does your fridge have a low voltage cut out? If it does, it may be able to be changed to a lower setting.Check your manual and see if it can be adjusted.

Macca.

Similar to other comments, the battery voltage "Cannot Be" 12.7v if the fridge is working, it must be lower when running. Only voltage tested at the circuit or as close to the internal circuit is any measure of reality WHILE the fridge is running. The highest voltage will be the battery of course and the tests along the wiring will indicate less.
Testing at either end of each wiring conductor both positive and negative lines while it is running, should show the small voltage drop in each wire. Add all the readings up and subtract that total from the voltage the battery is reading while supplying current. It will be similar to the low voltage read at the fridge entry and confirm there is not enough voltage under load..

Edit
Batteries can sometimes indicate indicate 12.7v with no load and that will read same everywhere in circuit but the battery may not be able to deliver any significant current to the load and therefore the voltage drops to below fridge threshold voltage while running. Is the battery definitely without question, good and serviceable?

Better change the title of the post. Nothing wrong with the fridge. You need someone who knows what they are doing to supply appropriate power to it.

Tlax,

You say that when driving there is no issue. One assumes from that that your fridge is getting what it needs from the vehicle alternator. It also runs fine on 240V. These both suggest your fridge is ok .

You told RMD that your battery is a new lithium and you've said it measures at 12.7V.

At 12.7V my lithium batteries are fully discharged. I imagine most LiFePO4 batteries are similar.

Is it possible that your charging system is defective and that your new battery has run flat so that it is unable to support the fridge without the car running?

From the EvaKool manual:

One flash means the fridge is cutting out because the supply voltage is outside the cutout
setting.
• Check your power supply (fridge power lead and vehicle wiring) for voltage drop. (The voltage with the fridge running needs to be above 10.9 volts)

4 flashes means If the system is too heavily loaded the motor cannot maintain speed. Contact Service Agent.

Check for corrosion in any fuses in the12 v wiring - near battery and any at the fridge. It could be a current problem not voltage problem.I had such a problem with my Engel.
Good luck, Graham.

Well, it seems I was a little confused earlier today - I have been having issues with both my car and my caravan! The battery is, in fact, lead acid AGM.

Well it looks like i will rewire the fridge. Anyone know of simple instructions, perhaps with diagrams, how to wire battery direct to new socket? And what parts i will need? I can find kits online but no installation guide.

i have had the same problem with many different fridges. as many suggest upgrade the wire to 6mm if possible. most of fridge problems come from wiring problems. we have owned a evakool fridge for 12 years and works perfect. in fact the support from evakool was excellent. try giving them a call and sort it out. good luck

They have a crap reputation anyway...
I have the Evakool RF60 for around 12 years now and even converted it to digital, it’s been fantastic.

https://4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/nevercool-60litre-fridge.45697/