Thursday, Aug 13, 2020 at 10:59
Further to GBC's Comment above ( and my experience):
I would not buy/install a Diesel heater that does not have the 2 heat methods as described below from the Belief's Tassie Website. Our Heater has only Temperature control and it cycles, Hi Heat noisy wind noise/fan to get the Van up to Set temperature, then Fan/Heat lower so van cools down, then higher Fan/Heat to get it up to set Temperature again. Adjustment of the Temperature setting can minimise the changes in fan/heat.
However running on the Heat output with the Belief type units on low all the time can carbon up the heater, so you need a high heater setting every now and then to burn out the carbon. Has not happened with our Temp only unit since on start up, to me gives a good burn off.
I understand that there are cheaper 2K units with the 2 heat modes available ex China ( I would only get a 2K unit for a 22 Ft or less van) but to me you will not have the support if you have problems compared to buying off the Tassie supplier.
From Belief's Website of sometime ago:
(Heat output control and regulation on air heaters work in two ways
Temperature control
In this mode the heater will sense the cold air input coming into the heater and will turn itself up or down depending on the position of the control switch. If the switch is turned down to low this will cause the burner in the heater to go out. When the temperature drops below the control switch setting temperature, the burner will reignite and heating will resume. As the heater requires the glow plug to start the burner flame, the glow plug ignition will draw around 10-12 amps (120w-144w) of current during start-up.
Heat output
In this mode the positioning of the control switch regulates the heat output of the heater – basically the same as a bar radiator. Using this mode does not turn the burner off but turns down the fuel supply and fan speed with the heater only drawing a run current of between 1.5 amps to 2 amps (18W-30W)
Other heaters on the market only use temperature control. In some cases careful positioning of the control switch is required so that the heater does not turn off. If this is not achieved the heater will draw 12 amps on start up for approx 2 minutes before going to its run current – approx 2 amps (on high). This type of regulation is hard on batteries especially if only 1 battery is installed.
Our belief heaters can be set on both temperature regulation or heat output; we recommend setting them on heat output as this gives better battery life and step-less heat output from low to high. This switching is achieved by pushing the up and down arrows together on the control switch.)
AnswerID:
632939
Follow Up By: Gronk - Sunday, Aug 16, 2020 at 09:41
Sunday, Aug 16, 2020 at 09:41
Our $200 eBay special has 2 heat options, but we only run it on heat. Usually flat out for short periods, but even if you want to run them on low for say overnight, just turn it up to high for 10 minutes before shutting down to burn off any carbon build up.
They are really a very simple device and apart from the controller and pump, nothing much to go wrong if you keep them from carboning up and blocking the glow plug.
FollowupID:
909878