How good are battery analysers.

Thanks Pedro1.
There is not much I can do about it – the electronic tester cost $40.
A 1000 amp load tester will cost me $500 – if I was in business I would go this way.

Hi Dennis, The tester I was refering to probably isn't a $40 job either, but the one Century supply to the retail shops for warranty testing etc .

With the deep cycle batteries I guess if you use a good battery monitor then knowing the real CCA gives more accurate readings for discharge and state of charge. From what I understand, few batteries are actually near their rated CCA, and that rating is constantly and gradually lowering.
You can do the 20hr test in, say, 10 hours and then adjust the figures, but as you say, it's all pretty fiddly.

Cheers
Jim

.
I agree with Gronk and StormCamper.

It is questionable that an AC impedance test to derive a CCA figure will provide any meaningful data. And in any case, how would you make use of such data? If the battery is performing its duty then all is well. If it fails to perform its duty then you would replace it. You are unlikely to replace it before it reached an unsatisfactory performance level unless it was in a critical performance duty.
It is possible that the readings obtained from a relatively inexpensive 'consumer' product could lead you into contemplating battery replacement earlier than necessary. After all if the beer is cold, everything is OK. lol

But maybe if you have time on your hands to be able to perform and ponder such data then it provides a feeling of satisfaction and security and fills in the Covid days.

As the batteries are used both for starting and deep cycle and are connected together without an isolating relay – I like to have forewarning of trouble. I think if the resistance tests remain consistent as the batteries age it will be good enough for me. It won’t be the only test, I will do others like starting the 4WD around 12volt on a cold day, or starting with a single battery.

Thanks, that’s useful information. I have 2 new identical batteries and their baseline tests are consistent. If I find someone with a carbon pile tester, I will check my smart tester against that.
As the batteries are used both for starting and deep cycle and are connected together without an isolating relay – I like to have forewarning of trouble. I think if the resistance tests remain consistent as the batteries age it will be good enough for me. It won’t be the only test, I will do others like starting the 4WD around 12volt on a cold day, or starting with a single battery.

.
Hi Dennis,

I appreciate your desire to have "forewarning of trouble." And the simplicity of your arrangement.
However, with the batteries directly coupled you do run the risk of over-discharging and not having sufficient power to start the engine. Incorporating an isolator relay would overcome this yet still provide a backup battery should the cranker catastrophically fail.

Do not entirely trust that testing will always protect you from disaster. I have experienced apparently good batteries suddenly failing with no warning signs or behaviour. One 4yo was performing well and starting without hesitation until it suddenly failed to the point of barely illuminating the interior light.

Hi Allan, Thanks for the info.
In my earlier days, I used to have a starter and a deep cycle with an isolator between batteries.
I now have 2 x 90ah 2 x 760 CCA Dual purpose batteries – effectively 180ah with 1520 CCA.
I have voltage relays set to 12volt cut-off on the fridge outlets.
My theory regarding a deep cycle and isolated starter – if the starter malfunctions the deep cycle may not have the CCA to start, particularly if running fridges.
In the past, I have used Century Marine Pro – very tough batteries and never had a fault.
I now have Century Dual Purpose AGM – again tough batteries and I don’t expect a fault.
Nothing is guaranteed in life and the whole lot could go up in smoke tomorrow.
Merry Xmas to all, from us Sandgropers in the West.

.
I wasn't suggesting a deep cycle battery isolated from your starter battery Dennis. What I proposed was having an isolator between your two Dual Purpose batteries.

It's interesting that no system stands "head-and-shoulders" above all others. We each devise systems that we believe will best satisfy our needs. And maybe like me, keep changing the arrangement as time goes on, hoping to arrive at perfection. lol

Hi Allan,
Your advice is appreciated, we both have different systems and different needs.
When I had a deep cycle battery separated by a relay – I wasn’t confident it would start my 4WD in an emergency. Its CCA was lower than the starter. It was running 2 Fridges and it was never up to full charge especially after a hot night. I wasn’t confident it would start my 4WD in an emergency.
The batteries I chose now are either Marine or AGM’s suitable for marine use, connected without an isolator. These have heavy-duty separators or glass mats between the plates to reduce the risk of internal shorts. I think these suit my purpose better than my old system.
Thanks for your interest

.
Actually Dennis, my needs are simply defined....... The battery system should be able to supply as much power as I need and to never let me down.
I suspect that your needs really are the same.

Oh, I nearly forgot....... And to keep the beer cold. lol

Much simpler to have an isolator between them as mentioned and if one battery goes bad it could drain the other then your stuck. I had that issue back in 1990 with a 60 ser cruiser I knew nothing about dual batteries back then and the previous owner had the 2 x starter batteries connected together. I got a jump start drove straight to Mt Isa where I lived at that time and the auto elec fitted a solenoid relay between the 2 new batteries he fitted for me and I never had trouble again. A much safer set up especially for isolated areas where having a safe reliable system is important and I have never set one up again without a battery isolator.

Having a larger ah aux battery is usually the normal thing if you can fit one in so it's large enough to run your gear with some in reserve. These days solar panels are available in various types to extend stays and there's no reason why one can't be used for the starting battery as well if parking or camping up just to keep it topped up. I have a 110w panel on my ute's canopy permanently feeding the starter but I run a Waeco CDF11 off it sometimes as well. My neighbor has a Redarc battery isolator so when he has his portable solar panel on the aux battery it can top up the starter battery if it drops below a set voltage. It works well he has tried it at home first by turning on the headlights for a while gives you a bit of faith in knowing your car will start if parked up for a while camping it's a great basic set up very cheap relay cost like $80 online 5yrs ago. So there are other ways to set things up so you don't have to worry about getting a flat battery. We both have voltmeters on all batteries so it gives you visual piece of mind as well.

Hi Batts thanks for the info. A deep cycle battery has a lower cranking capacity than a starter. I wasn’t confident that after running 2 fridges overnight that the it would have the capacity to start my diesel.
The batteries are protected with voltage depend relays on the fridges. Marine batteries have heavy duty separators it minimise the risk of internal shorts. I carry a Lithium jump starter for emergencies. I get much better useable capacity, both for starting and deep cycle work, using 2 marine type dual purpose batteries close connected than a split system.

The supercharge allrounder I use is a calcium deep cycle/ cranking battery 105ah, 760cca so no loss in cranking power. The other good thing is with the solar connected the in cab voltmeter reads 13.1v in the morning I just checked it the car hasn't been started for 4 days under the carport, gets a few hours of sunlight on the solar panel in the afternoon each day.

Your batteries have plenty of cranking capacity not sure what your concerened about and why the need to have the gear to test them it won't help when they're flat you have a jump pack to help out, you bought a brand of battery your confident, comfortable with ? and are really happy with the battery set up you have ? I know I am with mine I'm chilled out and have no concers when I go to start my 4wd no matter where I am. Not having a go just my observation sometimes they die early sometime they exceed their expectations wait and see what happens or get something with a longer warranty may be.

Hi Batts I test batteries so as to replace them before they reach 50 percent. I dont wait till they die.

.
A very Merry Christmas to you Shane and to everyone. May your New Year be better than 2020.

Hi Qldcamper
I also have a Charge/Discharge meter.
I plug the Engle into this and let it run down the battery.
I then have amp hours (watts) consumed and the SOC shown by the voltage level.
This will give a good indication of battery capacity.
Cross-checked with the resistance from the Analyser.
The Discharge meter cost $36 and the Battery Analyser $35.
It amazes an old fellow like me, what’s available to test a battery these days.

Thanks Kazza, looks interesting – How do you set the alarm volts?

Have no idea but will find out when it arrives.

My son has something similar in his camper and he can check the voltage remotely so I figured I could use it to monitor my battery in the tub.

That was the best deal I could find and then getting $10 off was a bonus.

Its not important Kazza - it will either be a button on the Monitor or a setting via the phone.

From what I can see there is only a red and black wire that connects to the battery so I would assume it would be d one via the app.

I monitor batteries with a small voltmeter. Once you know your batts, and the load, you can easily tell state of charge and capacity left.

Either that or yet another rumour about what the 300 Series Landcruiser is likely to have as an engine etc. :-D

Macca.

I heard it's all electric with a 550km range