fluid for fan

Submitted: Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 11:35
ThreadID: 14114 Views:1224 Replies:5 FollowUps:8
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I have heard that the hydrolic coupling for fans can be the cause of overheating even though they appear to be working and from reading posts a few people have added xtra fluid to their fan. My question is is this fluid readily available from auto1 and the likes and how do you add it. there is no filler plug so from looking it appears you would have to pull the hydrolic coupling into its 1/2ves. I would appreciate any advice from anyone who has tried it and did it make a differance. TA
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Reply By: Member - Roachie- Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 11:58

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 11:58
From what I can gather it's a bit hit and miss as to whether it works or not.
On my GU, I bought a new genuine fan hub (over $300-; ouch) and fitted it myself. I've kept the old one and pulled it apart and cleaned it. If/when the "new" one stuffs up, I'll try using 3 vials of toyota fluid (that's what I've read is best) in the old one and re-fit it.
Funny thing was that when I separated the 2 halves, the large rubber "O" ring was way to big to fit back in the slot designed to house it. I didn't stretch it in any way, so don't know why it was that way. I'll have to buy a new one if/when i do the repair job. I cut a bit out of it (about an inch), so that it now the right length and might try to join it back together with either a heat source or some super glue...not sure about that, but you can bet that a new "O" ring will be big $$$$$$$

Good luck.
AnswerID: 65021

Follow Up By: Sparkie - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:31

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:31
Have you tried going to a mechanics shop. I am not sure but they sometimes caryy O rings in all different sizes maybe they will have one that fits.

Sparki(IE not Y) ;-)
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Follow Up By: Member - The Cock (roach) - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 14:05

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 14:05
Yeh, Thanks Sparkie. I'll do that when the time comes; hopefully a few years yet.
FollowupID: 326027

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:50

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:50
Roachie, "try using 3 vials of toyota fluid (that's what I've read is best)"
Isn't that a like swearing to you! LOL
But seriously, toyota Coolant and silicone for the clutch fan is honestly the best (no bias here). I had an extra vial put into the Surf (even though I swore black and blew it was working fine) but it has made the world of difference, you can actually see the temp guage drop back a needles width when you hear it cut it. And no longer does she get hot an bothered going up steep hills on hot days.
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 21:32

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 21:32
With the o-ring it's a material thing, to be hydrocarbon resistant the material needs to be a viton type rubber which is considerably more expensive than lets say the cheaper rubber option, the rubber swells when in contact with hydrocarbons hence it won't leak but can only be used once. You could use a Kalrez or an Isolast material (brand names) which are an extreme where nearly nothing will attack them. In this day and age when we're using "Toyota fluid" and others you can never guarantee the chemical compsition so even a viton material could be susceptible to material degradation. Any lip seal distributors or someone like that would be able to help.
Keep the shiny side up

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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie SA- Monday, Jun 28, 2004 at 10:21

Monday, Jun 28, 2004 at 10:21
Thanks for that very useful info. It all makes sense now (I think!!??) as to why the "O" ring seemed to be too big.
Cheers mate
FollowupID: 326413

Reply By: Gajm (VIC) - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:22

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:22
Yep I tried it on my GQ, it has seemed to make a huge difference, but is hard to say until we get a bit more hot weather. But at least now the fan actualy works when you first start the motor up, something it wasn't doing before. it was an easy enough job on the Nissan, and the O-ring was more like a rubber gasket and didnt stretch at all. I will try to find a link that I was given and get back to you if you want to still give it a try. Clutch oil is available from Toyota for $9-$10 a tube
AnswerID: 65028

Reply By: Flash - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:35

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 12:35
Added fluid to mine(from my local Toyota dealer) and bent the bi-metallic spring a bit too- it was then however running ALL the time and ran very cool even towing a 2 tonne van up the very steep hill to Maleny (and same up to Toowoomba).
After a bit of trial and error, I removed just enough of the fluid so that it would cut out after running a minute or so after start up, now it's better than new.
My 14 year old TD42 runs cool AND the fan only cuts in when necessary now.
I'm happy and did not have to fork out for a new hub- guess it depends on whether or not you have the time to muck about or would rather spend the dough on a new hub.
One thing I know however, is that a lot of people spend a lot of money on other things when it's the fan at fault.
If you don't hear it ROAR at revs when the engine is getting hotter than normal THEN IT IS NOT WORKING!
Hope this helps, Cheers
AnswerID: 65034

Reply By: Davoe - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 13:17

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 13:17
some good replies guys my 2h motor runs about 1/2 around town and between 3/4 and maximum on the highway (doesnt boil when I pull up) I checked nearly everything (radiator, thermostat, fluid flow) 4 years ago and came up with zip so I buried my head in the sand and put it down to the fact it is a 2h motor in a hzj vehicle and may have had a dodgy sender/gauge but after reading these and other posts I think the fan would be worth investigation
AnswerID: 65047

Follow Up By: Bros - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:54

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:54
I have a 2H motor in my HJ 75 trayback with the viscous fan. The temp gauge never gets above half way even when fully loaded and most times it sits between 1/3 and 1/2. I have been told that the way to test that the fan is operating correctly (viscous fluid wise) is to turn the fan manually (when the motor is stopped) and feel resistance. If the fan turns easily, or spins freely, then the fluid is cactus.
Work is the curse of the down and out bludger.

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Reply By: Ruffstuff - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:47

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 15:47
Had the same problem with my 80 series. After trying just about everything- radiator flush, new thermostat etc, i had it finally fixed darwin ( on my way round the top from perth)with the toyota fluid.
To the best of my knowledge there is no grub screw to get into the fan clutch so we tapped a hole in it, put the fluid in, then put a grub screw in.
Worked a treat.
Biggest problem before was obviously the overheating- especialy pulling up hills.
Once the temp gauge goes over half, i believe the toyotas have some type of cut out switch that then shuts the air con down, made things a little sticky for a while.

This was two years ago and i havent had any problems on any of the long trips ive done since.
AnswerID: 65061

Follow Up By: Bundyman - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 19:39

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 19:39
Your dead right about the A/C cut out switch. When ever the temp gauge goes much above half way the A/C will cut out (which is a good idea on its own - less heat load on motor) but also makes you realise something is wrong. Its saved me a few times in the work ute pulling a big load in the middle of summer - A/C going flat out and then all of a sudden hot air, first thing you look at is the temp gauge, back off a bit and temp will drop down and then A/C will start agin. You have to give it to Toyota the think up some good idiot proof things. I would also highly recommend putting a water level alarm on any vehicle. We had one ute blow a radiator hose on the highway and within secs of the A/C stopping she was in the red!!

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Follow Up By: Davoe - Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 22:20

Friday, Jun 25, 2004 at 22:20
cant tell you what happens to the aircon, doesnt work - next job!
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