Canter FG 84

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 21:38
ThreadID: 142503 Views:1106 Replies:11 FollowUps:2
Hi
Hope someone can help
I have a 2010 canter that will not start. If I spray start fluid in it runs good there is no codes or engine lights on.
New filters have been put in
Gary
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Reply By: RMD - Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 22:25

Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 22:25
Gary.
Your info is a bit light on and doesn't say if it tries to start when cranking, ie fires sometimes or nothing. Also if it runs after starting with spray, but won't start again when cold? is that it?
If so it seems the glowplugs may not be operating, presuming it has those.
Is the cranking speed normal sound or SLOOOOOW. If slow there may not be enough cylinder temp being generated to fire the diesel inj spray of fuel. If it is like that, then it will puff whitish smoke.
I would definitely STOP using the spray if you value your engine big end bearings, pitons and rings and find the fault instead.

Filters are not the reason a diesel won't start so that has little to do with the issue, but may cause air in system if changed and then it won't start.
AnswerID: 637766

Reply By: Gary Coutts - Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 23:19

Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 23:19
Engine starts on starter fluid doesn't take much just a quick squirt runs all day on PTO working the drill rig
Will not start Hot or cold
Does not fire at all without spray new batteries fitted
AnswerID: 637768

Reply By: Erad - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 07:31

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 07:31
Sounds as if you have an air leak in the fuel system. If the aerosol spray gets it going, the air will eventually get pushed through the injectors and it will run OK until you stop for a while. When you put the new filters in, you probably got the air leak then. Pump the primer on the fuel filter. If it is soft, keep pumping until it gets hard and it probably will start OK then.
AnswerID: 637770

Follow Up By: Gary Coutts - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:35

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:35
No air in system ir happened before I changed the filters
Can drive all day switch motor of try to start straight away and nothing just kicking over
Do you think if I have the motor running and spray the joints with fluid it will rev up to find the leak
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FollowupID: 915892

Reply By: Bushranger1 - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:38

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:38
G'day Gary,
Assuming you changed the fuel filter which may have an air lock.
I have been servicing family diesel cars for years & usually just pump the primer on the top of the filter after a change & away they go.
Recently my SIL bought second hand diesel Rodeo & for the life of me I could not get it to start after filter change & priming.
Racv came & very aggressively pumped the primer while I cranked the engine & it started. Never would have thought to be that aggressive with the primer & cranking at the same time but it worked.
Learn something new every day.

Cheers
Stu
AnswerID: 637771

Reply By: Member - McLaren3030 - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:43

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:43
Hi Gary,

Sounds very much like an air leak in the fuel delivery system. Does not take much of a leak to stop an engine from starting. If the priming pump on the top of the fuel filter feels “soft”, then you have an air leak. I would start by checking every join/connection/clamp in the fuel system for tightness.

Macca.
Macca.

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AnswerID: 637772

Reply By: RMD - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:19

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:19
Ensuring ONLY fuel is flowing out of the "cracked loose" fuel Inlet connection to the pump OR only fuel escaping from the pump bleeder point, might have to be either will mean no aggressive pumping of a primer is ever required. It should all simply flow through and expel any air from the air from the line. Then close the bleeder/ cracked fuel inlet fitting, and there will be no air inside the pump. There was no air in there before hand so nothing changes in the pump if the line/system is bled.

Aggressive pumping of a bleeder only forces the air into the pump intake and through the pressure relief valve to tank. Around 7psi is required to do that all created by the monkey on the primer. With system ready to bleed the primer is EASY and does it's job. Works for old and CRD systems, same routine!
AnswerID: 637775

Reply By: Gary Coutts - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:41

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:41
Should the primer pump be really hard with the motor running
Feels like there is pressure stop pumping and its gone
AnswerID: 637776

Reply By: Peter 396 - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 20:07

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 20:07
Dose it do it only when the engine is hot or allso when the engine is cold?
AnswerID: 637778

Follow Up By: Gary Coutts - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 21:19

Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 21:19
Hot and cold doesn't fire at all
Now I have a code p0215 come up might be the pump I think
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FollowupID: 915895

Reply By: Erad - Saturday, Sep 04, 2021 at 07:56

Saturday, Sep 04, 2021 at 07:56
Code 0215 is Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction. Sounds consistent with your problem. Check the electrical wires going to the pump for a good connection.
AnswerID: 637782

Reply By: Gary Coutts - Saturday, Sep 04, 2021 at 11:53

Saturday, Sep 04, 2021 at 11:53
Turned ignition Of engine light went of
I wonder if it's the problem
AnswerID: 637785

Reply By: Gary Coutts - Sunday, Sep 05, 2021 at 07:23

Sunday, Sep 05, 2021 at 07:23
Does anyone know if I turn the key on if you should be able to hear a click or feel something clicking in
AnswerID: 637792

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