Canter FG 84
Submitted: Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 21:38
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Gary Coutts
Hi
Hope someone can help
I have a 2010 canter that will not start. If I spray start fluid in it runs good there is no codes or engine lights on.
New filters have been put in
Gary
Reply By: RMD - Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 22:25
Thursday, Sep 02, 2021 at 22:25
Gary.
Your info is a bit light on and doesn't say if it tries to start when cranking, ie fires sometimes or nothing. Also if it runs after starting with spray, but won't start again when cold? is that it?
If so it seems the glowplugs may not be operating, presuming it has those.
Is the cranking speed normal sound or SLOOOOOW. If slow there may not be enough cylinder temp being generated to fire the diesel inj spray of fuel. If it is like that, then it will puff whitish smoke.
I would definitely STOP using the spray if you value your engine big end bearings, pitons and rings and find the fault instead.
Filters are not the reason a diesel won't start so that has little to do with the issue, but may cause air in system if changed and then it won't start.
AnswerID:
637766
Reply By: Bushranger1 - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:38
Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 08:38
G'day Gary,
Assuming you changed the fuel filter which may have an air lock.
I have been servicing family diesel cars for years & usually just pump the primer on the top of the filter after a change & away they go.
Recently my SIL bought second hand diesel Rodeo & for the life of me I could not get it to start after filter change & priming.
Racv came & very aggressively pumped the primer while I cranked the engine & it started. Never would have thought to be that aggressive with the primer & cranking at the same time but it worked.
Learn something new every day.
Cheers
Stu
AnswerID:
637771
Reply By: RMD - Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:19
Friday, Sep 03, 2021 at 12:19
Ensuring ONLY fuel is flowing out of the "cracked loose" fuel Inlet connection to the pump OR only fuel escaping from the pump bleeder point, might have to be either will mean no aggressive pumping of a primer is ever required. It should all simply flow through and expel any air from the air from the line. Then close the bleeder/ cracked fuel inlet fitting, and there will be no air inside the pump. There was no air in there before hand so nothing changes in the pump if the line/system is bled.
Aggressive pumping of a bleeder only forces the air into the pump intake and through the pressure relief valve to tank. Around 7psi is required to do that all created by the monkey on the primer. With system ready to bleed the primer is EASY and does it's job. Works for old and CRD systems, same routine!
AnswerID:
637775