Waeco cf40 wont start 0n 240v

Yep it works fine on 12 volt. Just try’s to kick in then shuts down on 240v

Yep this worked. No idea why. I did have to leave it on battery for a short time. To get things working then the changeover trick worked.
Going away tomorrow so if it claps out it’s going to be filled with ice and fixed when I get back.

RMD - question about replacing thermistors. I am about to do this in one of our ARB fridge freezers. I have obtained the the new thermistor, & am waiting for the thermal paste to arrive. If I have understood correctly the thermal paste is an adhesive which hardens & sets. The idea to put some of this on the end of the thermistor & poke it into the hole in the bottom of the fridge until the thermistor cable has been pushed in the same distance that the removed one was. If a 'hardening paste has been used on the original thermistor I am concerned that the remnants of it may make getting the replacement 'fully home' a difficult if not impossible task . Is close enough good enough & am I worrying about nothing?

Cuppa
Good question! I haven't looked at the ARB ones and not sure thermistor how is held in place. If it was set in a hardening medium it probably won't extract to allow exact position. If you can remove it, I presume trying to "dry" insert the new one would be a good idea, as a test, before adding Goop to it. That will make it hard to insert. Only if the tube is big enough, You may be able to form a loop at the end of thin wire, maybe piano wire and have the loop on the cable on the exit side of the thermistor. With that wire you might then be able to position the Thermistor and withdraw the wire leaving the thermistor in place. I would have a go anyway.
The Waeco ones don't. simply pull out. My SIL had one fail on a Waeco 40 L, I think it was and the thermistor was at the end of a tube under the bottom of the liner. To find where it was, I used a powerful LED torch, not a piddley one, and shone close to the bottom of the liner. The Tube path was then able to be seen. I cut an appropriate sized square hole in case bottom and accessed the thermistor which was firmly glued to underside of liner near opposite end to compressor. Because I then had access to both ends of the cable tube I fitted two cables and thermistors and used heat sink paste and a thin aluminium sheets wrap. All sealed to underside of liner with good quality sealant. Insulation replacement was a squirt of expanding foam and after foam set and trimming, the plastic case piece was "expertly" rewelded back in with a soldering iron. Secure enough it was.
You may find the temp setting of a digital display may not be the same with a different thermistor, They vary a bit although claimed to be, ie, 10K @ 20C. I used a 100k mini trim pot, I think it was, across the cable connections to be able to set to a known reading of 4 C when a test thermometer was also 4 C. The fridge temps vary widely from top to bottom and end to end so an average has to be arrived at.

It was worth doing, saved buying a new fridge.

Hope this helps you make a decisions with the replacement. I started out blind with the Waeco and had to investigate and solve problems as I went. I work on the principle, Man made it, Man might be able to fix it!

Allan.
That is a shocking comment!

Leigh.
I agree that is often the trouble. Fairly simple to open a switchmode supply and simply change all electrolytics. If the High voltage side has dried out, swollen or even look perfect, changing them often works.
I found similar ones which run camera systems, ie, constantly used, 24/7 fail. I have changed the caps in a few and all began working again for the relatively small cost of the caps and a bit of time.

Robbie.
If filled with ice then there is no room for drinkies!

Phil.
That is good info to read re, the voltage of the power pack. Is the power pack a bit sus if not even matching the battery voltage. I see it works on a lower setting, but seems to be a bit self defeating and almost in limbo. With three setting and already at the lowest tolerance, "HOW LOW CAN YOU GO" and still have a reliable fridge to use?

The Bushman 35-52 comes like this - 12V connection only, and a 240V to 12V adaptor.

I just bought one from Jaycar and put an anderson on it.. it was 7amp switch mode. Perfect for the job. From memory around $50

had a fan built in to keep it cool.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/12vdc-7-5a-switchmode-power-supply-mains-to-cigarette-lighter-socket/p/MP3575

I have one of those but the fan is so noisy.

Also running 2 x Brass Monkey fridges which have a spec'ed Current Draw of 1.875A-3.75A so if both are running comes to 7.5A.

These computer power supplies are very robust and cheap as chips especially if you can find a second hand one in the junk pickup, I keep looking but have never been lucky enough to find one.

Kazza
I know we are digressing from the above, but if running a 3 way 12 constantly, and it is not thermostat regulated for temp it may go under normal set temp in some conditions. I have enough solar on van and vehicle to run my 3 way at 13.2v while driving and not connected to alternator. Tried it on a 500km run and surprised it was at 2C in the fridge when we arrived, 25c day and had fan cooling of condenser area, ie. air in, air out. It may require temp regulation to stop freezing if constantly ON as normal 12v running is not through the fridge temp control.

In a recent follow-up in another part of this thread I observed that Bushman supply a 240V to 12 adaptor to go with their 35-52L fridge which is 12V only. It doesn't have a fan like the Jaycar one. It's made in China and has part number GM95-135600-D. At a quick search I can't find an domestic source for this, other than Bushman, who sell it for $99.

https://bushman.com.au/product/bushman-transformer-240v/

And you will only pay about $30 for the same basic thing on ebay - and can higher capacity as well.