Waeco cf40 wont start 0n 240v

Submitted: Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 00:59
ThreadID: 143017 Views:9727 Replies:9 FollowUps:14
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I have a Waeco cf 40 with the digital display that only seems to work on 12v. When plugged into 240v it trys to work then shuts down. Then trys to start again.

Any Ideas?
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Reply By: kgarn - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 03:21

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 03:21
Does it work OK on 12V?
AnswerID: 638905

Follow Up By: Member - Robbie B2 - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:39

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:39
Yep it works fine on 12 volt. Just try’s to kick in then shuts down on 240v
FollowupID: 917746

Reply By: tonysmc - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 07:46

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 07:46
Hi Robbie, interestingly mine did the same thing last week. Its been happily running for years and I turned it off to clean it and wouldn't start again. I found with mine, I tried it on just 12 volt and it worked but didn't on 240v, so what I did was while it was running on 12v I plugged it into 240v at the same time and then unplugged the 12 volt and it kept going and started running normally on 240v again! Don't know why this worked but very happy it did. So it might be worth a try if you haven't done this already.
AnswerID: 638908

Follow Up By: Member - Robbie B2 - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:43

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:43
Yep this worked. No idea why. I did have to leave it on battery for a short time. To get things working then the changeover trick worked.
Going away tomorrow so if it claps out it’s going to be filled with ice and fixed when I get back.
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Reply By: RMD - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 08:47

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 08:47
I have repaired thermistor faults on them but not power issues. However, depending on it's use, ie, amount of time it has spent running on 240V ac in it's life so far and age, the powersupply which converts 240c to 12v or thereabouts, is possibly the cause. Usually after a period of use the Electrolytic capacitors which assist the power conversion in the supply get tired and do not retain there rated capacity anymore. Not sure how handy you are, but it is possible to disassemble the power supply, remove and test each, can style capacitor, usually grey with black negative stripe and black writing, ie, 16V 200MFD. If any show less than their rating on the can, then they are possibly the fault. Without it being correct the conversion of power probably won't happen and not enough power being produced to start the compressor. Switching smartly from 12v running to 240v running while compressor is going may JUST keep it going, but not start next time on 240v.
To me the trying to start but failing indicates the electronics are ok but the capacitors action has diminished and so it tries again and again to "crank up".
One year ago my partners fridge stopped working 2 days before Christmas '20. After some scrambling and testing on the board inside, I found completely dead electrolytic capacitors. Although functioning differently in a 240v only fridge, the start timing did not work and it did not start. Replace electrolytic capacitors and it has now run for 1 more year so far. Saved buying a new fridge too. which was needed to keep all the food ok.

So, worth a check and if you are unable to check, an electronics repair shop may be able to. A balance of new board cost against a relatively simple repair cost! Your decision.
AnswerID: 638909

Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 19:12

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 19:12
RMD - question about replacing thermistors. I am about to do this in one of our ARB fridge freezers. I have obtained the the new thermistor, & am waiting for the thermal paste to arrive. If I have understood correctly the thermal paste is an adhesive which hardens & sets. The idea to put some of this on the end of the thermistor & poke it into the hole in the bottom of the fridge until the thermistor cable has been pushed in the same distance that the removed one was. If a 'hardening paste has been used on the original thermistor I am concerned that the remnants of it may make getting the replacement 'fully home' a difficult if not impossible task . Is close enough good enough & am I worrying about nothing?
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FollowupID: 917745

Follow Up By: RMD - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:58

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:58
Good question! I haven't looked at the ARB ones and not sure thermistor how is held in place. If it was set in a hardening medium it probably won't extract to allow exact position. If you can remove it, I presume trying to "dry" insert the new one would be a good idea, as a test, before adding Goop to it. That will make it hard to insert. Only if the tube is big enough, You may be able to form a loop at the end of thin wire, maybe piano wire and have the loop on the cable on the exit side of the thermistor. With that wire you might then be able to position the Thermistor and withdraw the wire leaving the thermistor in place. I would have a go anyway.
The Waeco ones don't. simply pull out. My SIL had one fail on a Waeco 40 L, I think it was and the thermistor was at the end of a tube under the bottom of the liner. To find where it was, I used a powerful LED torch, not a piddley one, and shone close to the bottom of the liner. The Tube path was then able to be seen. I cut an appropriate sized square hole in case bottom and accessed the thermistor which was firmly glued to underside of liner near opposite end to compressor. Because I then had access to both ends of the cable tube I fitted two cables and thermistors and used heat sink paste and a thin aluminium sheets wrap. All sealed to underside of liner with good quality sealant. Insulation replacement was a squirt of expanding foam and after foam set and trimming, the plastic case piece was "expertly" rewelded back in with a soldering iron. Secure enough it was.
You may find the temp setting of a digital display may not be the same with a different thermistor, They vary a bit although claimed to be, ie, 10K @ 20C. I used a 100k mini trim pot, I think it was, across the cable connections to be able to set to a known reading of 4 C when a test thermometer was also 4 C. The fridge temps vary widely from top to bottom and end to end so an average has to be arrived at.

It was worth doing, saved buying a new fridge.

Hope this helps you make a decisions with the replacement. I started out blind with the Waeco and had to investigate and solve problems as I went. I work on the principle, Man made it, Man might be able to fix it!
FollowupID: 917750

Reply By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 09:43

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 09:43
The problem is that this 240v electricity just isn't what it used to be. The energy producers have been watering it down with that wind and solar stuff that is simply not as effective as the good ol' coal-fired power. It's just not as good as back in my day.
It has affected the quality of TV programs too!!
Anyway, Christmas beer is always better enjoyed straight off the ice-filled Esky.


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AnswerID: 638910

Follow Up By: RMD - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:30

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:30
That is a shocking comment!
FollowupID: 917749

Reply By: Member - LeighW - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 16:50

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 16:50
Not unusual for the electrolytic capacitors in small switched mode power supplies to dry out as mentioned above. I would swap out all the small value high voltage units in the control circuit and you'll most likely find that will solve the problem. If it is one that has a power pack type supply buying a new one would be the easiest option.

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AnswerID: 638913

Follow Up By: RMD - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:28

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 23:28
I agree that is often the trouble. Fairly simple to open a switchmode supply and simply change all electrolytics. If the High voltage side has dried out, swollen or even look perfect, changing them often works.
I found similar ones which run camera systems, ie, constantly used, 24/7 fail. I have changed the caps in a few and all began working again for the relatively small cost of the caps and a bit of time.
FollowupID: 917748

Reply By: Member - Robbie B2 - Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:48

Saturday, Dec 25, 2021 at 20:48
Thanks all for the comments. Doing a startup on battery and changing over worked.

Will keep a good eye on it while out for the week. And get it looked at when I get back.

If it dies it’s going to be filled with ice
AnswerID: 638915

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:08

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:08
If filled with ice then there is no room for drinkies!
FollowupID: 917752

Reply By: Phil G - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 09:08

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 09:08
Your CF40 has 3 low voltage cutout settings - what setting is it on?
I had the same issue on my second fridge that has the same compressor as your CF40. The output voltage on the 240V power pack was lower than the battery in my car, so the low volt cutout was triggered when running on 240. By changing it to the lowest cutout setting (10.1V) it worked perfectly again on 240V.
AnswerID: 638917

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:07

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:07
That is good info to read re, the voltage of the power pack. Is the power pack a bit sus if not even matching the battery voltage. I see it works on a lower setting, but seems to be a bit self defeating and almost in limbo. With three setting and already at the lowest tolerance, "HOW LOW CAN YOU GO" and still have a reliable fridge to use?
FollowupID: 917751

Reply By: OzzieCruiser - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:13

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:13
Just buy a external 240v to 12v power pack and run the fridge on 12v using the power back. $20 - $50 on ebay. They come in different capacities. These could save you stuffing up the rest of the fridge when trying to fix it.

I have a couple of camp fridges and two are that configuration from new with no direct 240v connection.

I bought this ONE a little while back an it runs a 40 litre fridge permanently with no issues.
AnswerID: 638919

Follow Up By: Briste - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 14:15

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 14:15
The Bushman 35-52 comes like this - 12V connection only, and a 240V to 12V adaptor.
FollowupID: 917754

Reply By: Kazza055 - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 17:33

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 17:33
A work around is the build a 12V power supply for when you have 240VAC available.

A simple way is to use an old Power Supply Unit (PSU) from a dead computer or even buy a new one. I recently purchased a new PSU from Denmark and paid $29.00 for it and received it within a week via DHL. This PSU puts out 33A on the 12V rail so will easily rub the fridge.

Here is the link - Power supply Hiditec SX 500W ATX 500W 500 W Roll over image to zoom in Power supply Hiditec SX 500W ATX 500W 500 W

You need to ground pin 16 to make the PSU work, use the smaller part of a paper clip to link pins 16 to pins 15 or 17.

I have set up one of these supplies in the back of the car to run my 2 x Brass Monkeys. If 240VAC is connected, a relay operates that disconnects the 12V from the dual battery and uses the 12V from the PSU

Here is an article from Instructables that put me onto it and I now run all my desktop network gear from an old PSU, been doing so for about 8 years. How to Power Up an ATX Power Supply Without a PC!

Our three way fridge in the van has stopped working on 240VAC so have been running it on gas but am now thinking of using another PSU to convert the 240VAC to 12VDC and forget about the 240V side of it.

AnswerID: 638922

Follow Up By: JJAdv - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 18:21

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 18:21
I just bought one from Jaycar and put an anderson on it.. it was 7amp switch mode. Perfect for the job. From memory around $50

had a fan built in to keep it cool.

FollowupID: 917757

Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 18:59

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 18:59
I have one of those but the fan is so noisy.

Also running 2 x Brass Monkey fridges which have a spec'ed Current Draw of 1.875A-3.75A so if both are running comes to 7.5A.

These computer power supplies are very robust and cheap as chips especially if you can find a second hand one in the junk pickup, I keep looking but have never been lucky enough to find one.
FollowupID: 917758

Follow Up By: RMD - Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 22:07

Sunday, Dec 26, 2021 at 22:07
I know we are digressing from the above, but if running a 3 way 12 constantly, and it is not thermostat regulated for temp it may go under normal set temp in some conditions. I have enough solar on van and vehicle to run my 3 way at 13.2v while driving and not connected to alternator. Tried it on a 500km run and surprised it was at 2C in the fridge when we arrived, 25c day and had fan cooling of condenser area, ie. air in, air out. It may require temp regulation to stop freezing if constantly ON as normal 12v running is not through the fridge temp control.
FollowupID: 917760

Follow Up By: Briste - Monday, Dec 27, 2021 at 10:54

Monday, Dec 27, 2021 at 10:54
In a recent follow-up in another part of this thread I observed that Bushman supply a 240V to 12 adaptor to go with their 35-52L fridge which is 12V only. It doesn't have a fan like the Jaycar one. It's made in China and has part number GM95-135600-D. At a quick search I can't find an domestic source for this, other than Bushman, who sell it for $99.

FollowupID: 917761

Follow Up By: OzzieCruiser - Monday, Dec 27, 2021 at 11:22

Monday, Dec 27, 2021 at 11:22
And you will only pay about $30 for the same basic thing on ebay - and can higher capacity as well.
FollowupID: 917762

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