Wet 12 pin trailer connection

Submitted: Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:54

ThreadID: 143034 Views:4400 Replies:3 FollowUps:11

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Member - Jim S1

Have felt recently that the camper brakes weren't working as they should.
May have found at least part of the problem !!!

Cheers
Jim

Trailer brake connection

"Sometimes I sits and thinks, and sometimes I just sits." A fisherman.

"No road is long with good company." Traditional

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Reply By: RMD - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:18

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:18

Jim,
Really, you must have your trailer plug and base in a position where it gets hammered with dirt and mud and water etc to get as bad as that. Do you think, relocating the base and plug away from there would be a good idea?????
It appears no effort has been applied to try to seal anything there! OOS OOM?
At least tape it or seal it with a small amount of silastic in vital areas so it cannot happen. Unless the trailer brake wire has deteriorated in it's connection integrity, the brakes should work the same, similar for lights too.
A clean and wash with vinegar and a stiff brush with each wire removed in turn might do the trick as a clean up.
The pins and sockets of the assembly have to be dirty as well where they connect to each other.
The cable grommets should be in place and sealed to largely stop ingress of crap and moisture.
Every so often you have to use a thin knife blade to prise the split connectors apart slightly so they positively contact and wipe as they are inserted. If loose the trailer brake unit won't be able to apply the correct energy level to brakes.
If no brakes and accident = no insurance if found as the reason. Periodic Maintenance might save you!
Even an initial spray of Lanolin into the wiring terminals of both will keep Verdigris at bay and stop moisture from attacking the wire to terminal sites even though it may get full of crap.

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Follow Up By: Member - Jim S1 - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:34

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:34

Hi RMD
Yes, you are right, and I should have checked it before. There's always been dust, but the ingress of water is new, so I will do things differently.
Lights have been fine, and trailer has braked, but I felt that the trailer braking wasn't as it should have been.

Will clean it all up and spray and seal what I can, but I think the main thing will be to store it with the plug not hanging down, as it does get exposed to rain on occasions.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Cheers
Jim

"Sometimes I sits and thinks, and sometimes I just sits." A fisherman.

"No road is long with good company." Traditional

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Follow Up By: Kenell - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:48

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:48

RMD - your insight on maintaining the connector and its parts seems appropriate although I suspect Jim understands what is required.

I have to challenge your insurance comment though. It is very rare for an insurer to rely on the roadworthy exclusion that pretty well all policies carry. The case in point - where the problem was less than obvious - would not be challenged by an insurer. Bald tyres, as in Kojak bald, on a wet road travelling down hill and sliding into something is likely to raise the eyebrows of the insurer. It really does have to be that obvious. Having said that I have even seen that denial overturned when challenged.

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Follow Up By: Member - Warren H - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 13:32

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 13:32

I've had a similar problem with the vehicle socket filled with dust and for it to be caked onto the connectors. It is overdue for another inspection and cleanup. I think the problem is inherent with the 12 pin system, Unless the wire bundle into the socket can be supported, it is too heavy and rigid to stay sealed. I redid mine carefully making sure that everything fitted together, grommet clamped in the housing and wrapped it in self amalgamating tape, cable tied the wire bundle etc. etc., by the end of the 3 month trip it was clear that it was impossible to do a 'permanent' fix. My HR tow bar has a bracket for the socket that is suspended in mid-air, meaning the wiring swings in the breeze so to speak, with a relatively long run to the first place it can be supported, so it will need to be completely reconfigured or just put up with having to regularly redo the job. The wiring to the socket has also been installed so that it runs under the tow bar when it could just as easily have been on top well out of the way, methinks a reconfiguration is coming. I'd like to fit a combined Andersen and 12 pin trailer socket if I can, but I suspect they are large and not particularly easy to fit unless panel mounted.

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Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 14:00

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 14:00

Kenell
You may be right with the insurance but if you had poor braking, suspected, you go and check items. If an insurer detects braking and no other reason, then the braking system would be looked at. Death or no death alters the intensity of the investigation. The tyre issue is real. After I dragged a bloke, the passenger, out of a crashed truck in QLD in '16, the "onetyre" on the low loader trailer which was largely worn out was enough for the company owner to be charged with a number of offences. Unfortunately the driver died at the scene and so it became a define look at all aspects from the law and insurance point of view.

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Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 14:07

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 14:07

Jim
With a small tube of silicon, it is easily done to apply a thin bead amount to the edge seal of the plug and base AND where the wires enter, simply squirt a little in between the wires,ie 2mm wide, and then enough around the wires to fill any voids at the cable entry. Being silicon it will be easily pulled apart and at the wires if removed from the connector screws, each wire can be separated as required. If sealed like that almost nothing gets inside. It appears most don't bother.

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Follow Up By: Kenell - Friday, Dec 31, 2021 at 09:13

Friday, Dec 31, 2021 at 09:13

RMD
I acknowledge your point that accidents involving fatalities are thoroughly investigated and the coroner will make recommendations based on those investigations. Whilst an insurer will sometimes wait to settle their claim until the findings are released it would be very rare that they would withhold payment based on a roadworthiness finding. I don't want to hijack the thread by going into the deep and meaningfuls of why that is but I just wanted to address the myth that insurers won't pay if the brakes are faulty (or the trailer connector was full of crud), the axles are overloaded, the van is too heavy etc etc. It can happen but very rarely does. In a nutshell insurance policies don't carry a "drongo" exclusion (which would probably be easier to enforce than the roadworthiness one).

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Reply By: Kazza055 - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 14:21

Reply By: Member - Jim S1 - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 15:17

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 15:17

Having checked things over, I'm going to instal a new plug, rather than mess around for hours on the old one.
Have some new loom tube as well, and will see what I can do to make it all reasonably dustproof and waterproof.
Thanks.
Jim

"Sometimes I sits and thinks, and sometimes I just sits." A fisherman.

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Follow Up By: Member - David M (SA) - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 15:58

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 15:58

Good to see you intend to get ya act together Jim. :)
Dave.

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Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 20:32

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 20:32

Jim
What is the function of the little wire between the two thicker ones in the other side of the plug?
Depending on it's function-
Have you considered using an Anderson plug for the two heavy wires. An Anderson will probably be more capable of ensuring a good reliable connection. It is easier to have a thin 7 pin and an Anderson side by side. Using 4 mm screws of suitable length and tapping a 4 mm thread in a bracket attached to the tow bar Anderson's are quite versatile.

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Follow Up By: Member - Jim S1 - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 20:48

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 20:48

I believe that the infamous "pink" wire is the one which ......

"With respect to 12v operation. When the fridge is turned to "DC"for 12v operation when you are driving, the fridge will only operate if your camper receives 12v via the pink wire that is connected with the group of wires in the 12pin plug to the tow vehicle.
This power should come via the ignition switch which is powered only when the ignition is turned on, then activates a relay in the battery box to connect your 12v fridge to the battery. This is a fail safe way of restricting the electricity draw to the fridge from the camper battery when the tow vehicle is not running due to the high amperage (about 12 to 15 amps) required to run the fridge on DC power."

As for using an Anderson, yes, I am also considering that change. I have a local auto electrician who I just might call on.

Cheers
Jim

"Sometimes I sits and thinks, and sometimes I just sits." A fisherman.

"No road is long with good company." Traditional

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Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 22:11

Thursday, Dec 30, 2021 at 22:11

Jim
Thanks for that. If the Pink wire is used for that relay/fridge running, what function is pin 2, ie, black wire in the 7 pin section do or used for. If nothing, maybe you could Pink it to the fridge on pin 2 and simply use a 7 pin plug socket and the Anderson would do the heavy stuff.
I don't like the idea of the 12 pin sockets/plug very much. Just a suggestion!

FollowupID: 917801