LED full light assembly upgrade for 1995 Landcruiser Ute - 70 Series.

Submitted: Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 13:10
ThreadID: 143095 Views:4822 Replies:4 FollowUps:8
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I am looking for information about fitting aftermarket LED headlights to a 70 series 1995 Toyota Landcruiser Ute. I am requesting this information on behalf of a friend who is fitting LED headlights to his sons 70 series ute. While my friend is very experienced in vehicle repairs, etc., he had not done this particular task previously and is having some problems with the wiring. It is a known Toyota problem and there is a solution, but I can't find a web site that explains it. The positive and negative have to be reversed, but a negative ground switch for high beam apparently is one of the issues. Everything works fine on the bench, but not in the vehicle. Can anyone guide me towards a web site or forum thread that explains the problems and solutions about changing from normal headlights to LED headlight systems on older Toyotas?

I will add that this upgrade is a complete light assembly upgrade and not just a bulb replacement in to the old assembly. Brian DJ

Brian DJ

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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 13:30

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 13:30
I just fitted a pair of these to the OKA. They fit in the old holder that has the adjustment mechanism and simply plug into the old wiring globe plug. A 5 minute changeover.
Not been out in the dark yet to try them though :)
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AnswerID: 639090

Follow Up By: Kanga1 - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 14:46

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 14:46
Please let us know how they go in the dark Peter. Cheers.
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Reply By: RMD - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 15:31

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 15:31
Brian DJ

Because an LED is NOT a globe and carries current only one way through itself you cannot change the negative of the LED lamp to act as a common +ve supply. So a work around is required.
They have to be wired so the negative switched Toyota can act a a positively switched system. High beam becomes an issue too.
Yes, Toyota's do use negative to earth switching and so any LED light which has two positive feeds and one neg wire won't work unless you add two relays. Each relay has to be coil fed by the original headlight plug ie, common, connection which is the positive wire on a Toyota when the headlight switch is turned on. The two relay coils can then be earthed to negative by the OE High and Low wiring which switches the coils to earth/negative on the Toyota. The main feed to each relay, ie the heavy current section, can be fed by the same OE power wire, along with the relay coil input feeds.
That way, when you choose High or Low, the relay one or other, will feed positive power to the LED lights +ve inputs. The Negative of each LED can be direct to negative/chassis.
You may experience the High Beam light doesn't work as they normally earth the indicator lamp through the Low beam side. You may require a small globe ie, 10w across the OE headlight common =ve feed to the Lowbeam wire. This is in parallel with the Lowbeam relay coil and provides sufficient current to the High beam indicator which originally gets it;s power through the LOW BEAM filament of the OE headlight. When LOW is then selected, the relay should operate and run the LOW LED and also will run the small Globe at full strength, but NO HB IND) because the LOW beam wire is being earthed to neg to make it work as per normal, ie LOW BEAM.
The globe OR it can be a resistor across +ve feed to LOW BEAM wire, enables the HB light to turn ON and has to carry sufficient power so the relay coil effectively sees +ve both sides of the coil, ie not much voltage across it to activate, hence it does not turn ON.
Hope this all makes sense. Take it bit by bit!

AnswerID: 639092

Follow Up By: qldcamper - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 18:08

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 18:08
Quite correct, toyota wired the hi beam indicator lamp so if the headlights were on and wasnt on lo beam the indicator would come on.
I found it easier to just pop the dash out and cut the tracks and connect the indicator direct to the headlight relay.
Pain in the arse.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 19:17

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 19:17
The indicator is designed to be on if Low isn't. Not sure what you mean with the dash. No need to change much if the circuitry is understood. Altering the dash would make it more conventional though. Never thought of doing that. Adding a globe or resistor across the relevant relay coil always fixed it for me. Corollas, coronas, cruisers all were the same.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 09:02

Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 09:02
There is always more than one way to skin a cat.
My choice when relay assisting the very sad sealed beam headlights on toyotas was to reconfigure the circuit on the dash rather than add bulbs or resistors, took about 15 minutes after working it out on the first one.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 12:01

Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 12:01
I had a HJ61 for 25 years and it had poor headlights from day 1. Knowing I had tested the alt output voltage AT the alt terminal 14.2v, I then measured the voltage across the switched ON sealed beam headlights and found it to be around 11v because of the thin Toyota "quality" wiring. I added two relays switched as described, and used the small globe as an engine bay light when on low beam. With the two relays fed directly from the alt terminal and heavy feeds, made my own loom to lights. Result was a healthy 13.5v across the same headlight filaments. Now I could actually see the road. Because of the feed from alt I also used driving lights of 55w and on the FULL voltage they produced better light than a 100w globe and lasted as well.
Most people don't fix the basic fault and instead add lights of higher wattage, running on the thin wiring. The OE alt to battery wire gets hot under full output and is a resistor under that loading. Using the alt terminal direct to light relays takes the battery charge line LOSSES out of that circuit. Most people take feeds from the battery terminal, but it is the alternator making the energy not the battery.

PS, The Piranha off road boss told me I needed a bigger alt for lights and aux battery, stating NO Toyota LC had more than a 45 amp alt. Good try to sell me something I didn't need. He didn't know his facts and lied. I had already tested the output of the alt and it held 12.5 v while delivering 105 amp output. So I never bought any Piranha product ever!
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 12:37

Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 12:37
Hmmm, a salesman telling lies, who would have thought.
As an apprentice I made up a piggyback test harness that plugged in between the headlight and plug that enabled us to park the clients car close to a wall with the lights turned on then flash the piggybacked wires direct to the battery terminals demonstrating the difference as not many people appriciated the difference a volt or three actually made to the lights.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 13:14

Saturday, Jan 15, 2022 at 13:14
It is perhaps not generally appreciated what the loss of voltage has on the OEM incandescent lights.
Firstly, the power loss at the lamp is the square of the voltage loss. So 90% of rated voltage develops only 81% of rated power.
But it gets worse than that!......... Due to the characteristics of heated lamp filaments, the 90% delivered voltage produces only 70% of rated lumens.

In RMD's case, his 11 volts produced only 45% of rated lumens.

For headlights, it is worth eliminating as much volt-drop as possible. Relays and generous cabling should ALWAYS be used.

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Reply By: qldcamper - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 18:12

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 18:12
I do a lot of driving these days in the Bowen basin and those LED upgrades are as annoying as f**k coming the other way.
No way they are legal.
AnswerID: 639094

Follow Up By: RMD - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 19:23

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 19:23
Agree they are a problem. Often the ones being sold only do a dip of sorts, still spray light out where they shouldn't and some even dip to the right. Some folk don't seem to know or care. In wet weather the higher colour temp LEDS light output doesn't reflect to the driver as well and water on road is much harder to see, of you see it at all.
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Reply By: arofs1 - Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 21:20

Friday, Jan 14, 2022 at 21:20
Thanks RMD for your comprehensive reply, I am sure it will assist my friend in making the project a success.

Any more comments on the subject will also be appreciated. Brian DJ
AnswerID: 639097

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