1HZ operating temp
Submitted: Monday, Mar 14, 2022 at 17:06
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Member - Tony w16
I have a 1HZ -T that the original temp gauge reads at 1/4 most times, when towing up a very steep incline it reaches about 3/4. I also have an aftermarket gauge fitted at the top radiator hose outlet which I'm not sure if it is giving me an accurate reading. Normal driving sits around 80c-92c, when on highway & towing around 90c-95c. Towing up steep hills (
Toowoomba Range) original gauge gets to about 3/4, aftermarket gauge gets to 120c+. It does return to 'normal' range as soon as I get back onto reasonably flat ground.
I have serviced every item on the cooling system ( radiator rodded & flushed, engine flushed, both hoses replaced, thermostat replaced, water pump replaced, viscous fan serviced & new fluid) The turbo runs at max 8psi & fuel delivery has been set by local diesel mechanic (no black smoke etc).
Now I'm thinking the aftermarket gauge may not be exactly accurate or if the position of the sender is what is causing the high temps. Any advice on the issue would be appreciated. Is the high temps from the position of the aftermarket gauges sender unit? Is there any way to
check the accuracy of the gauge? Or am I just reading to much into it?
Cheers Tony
Reply By: Athol W1 - Monday, Mar 14, 2022 at 21:23
Monday, Mar 14, 2022 at 21:23
Tony
I would suggest that the aftermarket temp gauge is working as it should, especially as the original gauge appears to agree with it.
I would be REPLACING the TSVC, as I have found that servicing these units is not always successful, one thing that is critical is the quantity and quality of the silicon fluid that is used for the refill.
Also with the replacement thermostat was an original Toyota part used, or was it an aftermarket part. I have found that some aftermarket thermostats do not completely shut off the bypass system, I have even found thermostats used that did not have the bypass shutoff valve fitted.
As far as checking the accuracy of these gauges I use a temp gun purchased on Ebay for around the $50 to $100 mark, just point at the thermo housing and pull the trigger, the laser light tells what is being measured and the gauge gives the reading to a fraction of a degree. Also good for checking the temps of many other things like brakes and tyres.
Regards
Athol
AnswerID:
639829
Follow Up By: Member - Tony w16 - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 08:20
Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 08:20
With the TSVC, are you referring to the viscous hub? I should have mentioned that I did replace it with a new hub & then replaced the silicon fluid ( genuine Toyota) with amount specified by Toyota after no difference was made ( just trying to eliminate all causes of apparent hot running) Genuine Toyota thermostat was used. I am just starting to think I'm reading too much into the gauge as the original is within operating window, maybe the temp readout is accurate & that it reads a bit higher than what I'm used to in other vehicles due to the position of the sender (system outlet straight off the head)
FollowupID:
918911
Follow Up By: Athol W1 - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 09:41
Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 09:41
Tony
Yes the TSVC (Temperature Sensitive Viscous Coupling) is indeed the Viscous Hub.
The usual location for a factory fited temp sender is on the engine side of and close to the thermostat, there are a few exceptions to that where the original Ford Falcon had them fitted to the rear of the cylinder head. By fitting the sender to the top radiator hose you are missing out on readings as the engine is warming, and also getting false readings should the thermostat stick shut, but otherwise you will be getting true temp readings.
As you have apparently checked that everything is in good order then I ask if the vehicle was an original build with the Turbo engine, and also if the radiator is specifically for the Turbo engine. Whilst 120 deg temps when working hard for long climbs is not unheard of in the modern vehicles I, like you, would be getting a little nervous when seeing them and knowing that the top of the
hill is yet to come.
Most modern vehicle manufacturers deliberatly calibrate their factory fitted 'gauges' so that they do not change from the 'normal' operating temps untill they consider the temp to be abnormal, as they do not want the owners to be complaining under warranty about the fluctuating engine operating temps. In at least one such case the temp 'gauge' does not change between 75 deg and 115 deg when monitored via a Scangauge diagnostic tool.
Do you have a means of measuring the Exhaust Gas Temp (Pyrometer), and is that fitted before or after the turbo?
Regards
Athol
FollowupID:
918912
Follow Up By: Member - Tony w16 - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 18:58
Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 18:58
No,the 1HZ is a naturally aspirated engine, the turbo fitted is aftermarket. It has a top mount intercooler. I asked the radiator specialists when they were cleaning it out if they thought the radiator was suitable for turbo charged engine, & they said it was fine for it.
I have a EGT gauge fitted, the sender in the dump pipe post turbo. Max temp it reaches is around 300°c. We have in the past checked temps in other
places ( pre turbo ect) & they were all within an acceptable temp range.
FollowupID:
918921
Follow Up By: Athol W1 - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 19:38
Tuesday, Mar 15, 2022 at 19:38
Tony
I would be making further enquiries in relation to the radiator size, and in particular if there is a replacement core available with an extra row of tubes, as the fitment of a turbo does increase the heat load generated by the engine.
Whilst the original radiator in good condition may be suffficient during normal operation it is that extra heat load of towing and climbing a long
hill when combined with the added heat load generated by the ability to burn more fuel (as that is what a turbo effectively does, more air means more fuel can be burnt = more heat load) can mean that the radiator is no longer suitable for the job at hand.
Regards
Athol
FollowupID:
918923
Follow Up By: 2517. - Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 13:36
Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 13:36
I traveled with a mate who had a similar vehicle and same problems ,fitted a duel core radiator in
Darwin solved the problem. Common problem with after market turbo so the radiator man said in
Darwin.
FollowupID:
918927
Follow Up By: Member - Tony w16 - Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 14:55
Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 14:55
Hmm, I might look into the radiator a bit further, It's the only thing left that hasn't been replaced. I'll try another radiator specialist & see what they say. Thanks for the info!
FollowupID:
918928
Follow Up By: Member - FSH00 - Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 23:26
Wednesday, Mar 16, 2022 at 23:26
Please let us know when you find the fix as I may be looking at the same issue in the future.
Pete.
FollowupID:
918935
Follow Up By: That Troopy Bloke - Sunday, Mar 20, 2022 at 20:58
Sunday, Mar 20, 2022 at 20:58
You haven't mentioned what model the 1HZ is in. If it is a 75 series or early 78/79, there is an upgrade to a HDJ radiator that will fix all your issues
CMS I have this in my 75 and can vouch for this kit, my old bus runs cool as a cucumber now.
If a 80 or 100 series, I dunno, maybe a fan upgrade
Qikazz
FollowupID:
918963
Follow Up By: Member - Tony w16 - Monday, Mar 21, 2022 at 08:01
Monday, Mar 21, 2022 at 08:01
That Troopy Bloke, it's in a 80 series.
FollowupID:
918971
Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Tuesday, Mar 22, 2022 at 06:48
Tuesday, Mar 22, 2022 at 06:48
I’m intrigued that your EGT’s max out at 300° but coolant goes through the roof during steep climbs?
My V8 LC ute EGT sits between 300-320° on level going in most conditions, but recently, towing up new
Toowoomba Range, EGTs slowly climbed up to 450° in 4th gear, until I backed off a bit & went back to 3rd. Like you, temps rapidly drop once at the top of the climb.
Bob
FollowupID:
918984