Changing 12 outlet on fridge

Submitted: Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 19:08
ThreadID: 143498 Views:5673 Replies:7 FollowUps:9
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Hi guys, just wondering how hard is it to change the panel mount 12 volt outlet on a portable fridge?
My 60 L fridge has an iec c7 plug with a very thin cable to a cigarette plug for the 12 volt lead.
I have a 0.3volt drop I would like to minimise by using heavier wire to the fridge. Cutting the plug off and replacing with an Anderson didn’t help.
Can’t work out why they have used this style plug on the first place- usually found on 240 volt appliances.
Helpful suggestions welcome. Thanks, doc.
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Reply By: Kazza055 - Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 20:28

Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 20:28
That is a bit dangerous, if you didn't know better you could plug in 240v and destroy the fridge. I even expect it would be illegal.

What brand of fridge is it's?
AnswerID: 640060

Follow Up By: ozdoc - Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 21:29

Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 21:29
Not quite sure what you mean. The 12 volt input that comes with the fridge is iec c7 which plugs into its own female socket. The fridge has a separate 3 pin 240 volt input. I want to make a 12 volt lead with Anderson plugs at each end. So I need to remove the Iec c7. 12 volt input from the panel and replace it with an Anderson socket. Not sure if it’s just a plug and play swap over or I should consult a ? Small appliance electrician. I’m comfortable with 12 volt but never touch anything 240.
Doc
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FollowupID: 919123

Reply By: Rangiephil - Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 20:38

Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 20:38
My 60 L fridge has an iec c7 plug with a very thin cable to a cigarette plug for the 12 volt lead.
My immediate answer is
A cigarette plugs are usually crap and the wiring to them light which causes voltage drop.
If it has an internal fuse, the contacts may be dirty.
I have never had a problem with my 40L Engel as I have dedicated wiring to it and use merit plugs and sockets. My wiring is 4B&S from the front of the car to the driver's side rear then 8B&s to the fridge plug on the LH side of the rear.
If your fridge is a Waeco , they are very sensitive to voltage drop.
AnswerID: 640061

Follow Up By: ozdoc - Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 21:34

Saturday, Apr 02, 2022 at 21:34
No not waeco- it’s a techni ice. Running fine on 12 volt but with the voltage drop from the lead, it means I have less run time on the battery. I have the voltage cut out set low as possible. I would just prefer to minimise the voltage drop and use nice solid connections like Anderson plug. Thanks, doc.
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FollowupID: 919124

Reply By: Member - Bigfish - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 06:45

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 06:45
I, have 3 fridges that I have converted to an Anderson plug to reduce voltage drop. All have worked fine for many years. My mates also have converted theirs to Anderson. Simple to do and using 8 B&S 0r 6 B&S ensures no voltage drop. Easy enough to open the fridge and solder thicker wire in place to anderson plug mounted on outside of fridge. While you have it apart you may even want to install a bigger fan (obtainable from any Jatcar shop or computer spares shop.
AnswerID: 640062

Reply By: kgarn - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 12:30

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 12:30
Are you sure it is C7, a lot of fridges (eg my Waeco and Brass Monkey) use C11 as below;

AnswerID: 640070

Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 13:19

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 13:19
Thanks you kgarn, I have been trying to track these connectors down and had no idea what they were called, IEC C11 and IEC C12 for the female and male.

Any idea where they can be purchased from as Mr Google keeps throwing the 3 pin connectors into the results.
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FollowupID: 919129

Follow Up By: ozdoc - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 14:01

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 14:01
Ye polarised c7 - so a figure of 8 shape with a flat end on one of the short sides. I think Snowmaster fridges and maybe companion have same plug . C8 is the female panel mount . Doc
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FollowupID: 919130

Follow Up By: kgarn - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 14:49

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 14:49
Ozdoc,
Ok, yes I am aware of the C7P /C8P (polarised plug & socket). just not so common

It may be easiest to just cut the plug off and leave a short length of the existing cable and then extend the short length with say 8 AWG twin cable for the length required and terminate with an anderson. Any voltage drop in the short length of original cable will be negligible.


***********************************

Kazza055,
I understand the C11/C12 are no longer defined under the standard and have been discontinued so probably very hard to find although they seem to be used on some portable fridges

IEC 60320 C11 & C12 Information

IEC C11 and C12 : Removed from the standard

The IEC 60320 C12 Inlet is a polarized version of the C10, and is rated up to 250V and 10 Amps Internationally or 250/125V and 15 Amps in North America. The C11/C12 are nearly identical to the C9/10 except there is a tab on the top of the C12 Inlet that forces polarity. This is for devices that are not internally wired to accept posotive or negative leads to be on either side. The C11/C12 have since been discontinued and are currently not on the IEC 60320 set of standards


Ken
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Follow Up By: ozdoc - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 15:29

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 15:29
Ta for that Ken. I wasn’t sure if leaving the plug on would still create a voltage drop if I did as you said. I was also looking at trying to use ec5 connector with heavy gauge wire to imitate the c7 plug. Then I started to think about replacing the c8 panel mount socket…then it all started getting too hard and I gave up?????. Doc
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FollowupID: 919133

Follow Up By: kgarn - Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 16:36

Sunday, Apr 03, 2022 at 16:36
There will always be some voltage drop at every connection, but it is somewhat unpredictable and depends on contact resistance etc.
What is more predictable is the voltage drop due to the resistance of connecting cable.
In the case of 8 AWG with a cross sectional area of close to 8 sqmm, the voltage drop would be approx 10mV / metre at 5A and 20mV / meter including the return .
I expect your fridge would draw no more than 5A

The original cable is typically 16AWG (1.3 sq mm) so if you cut it and left say 150 mm before connecting to 8AWG, the the voltage drop along that 150mm at 5A including return would be approx 20mV.

The total voltage drop due to cable length would be 20 + 20 x Length of extension (m).
eg if the length of the 8AWG is 2m then the total voltage drop due to cable would be 20 + (2 x 20) = 60mV (@ 5A)

Of course you then have to add any voltage drop across connectors.

Hopefully someone will check my calcs.
I have assumed R(/m)= (1.72 x 10^-8 x length (m)) / CSA @ 20C and a current of 5A.
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FollowupID: 919134

Reply By: Member - LeighW - Monday, Apr 04, 2022 at 11:40

Monday, Apr 04, 2022 at 11:40
I got sick of the cigar style plugs but didn't want to go to a full size anderson so went with the anderson SB mini style, which has worked well.

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AnswerID: 640078

Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Monday, Apr 04, 2022 at 12:59

Monday, Apr 04, 2022 at 12:59
Also have a look at the Anderson Power Pole connectors which are for lower rating when you don't need 50A.
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FollowupID: 919140

Follow Up By: @Yackandandah - Tuesday, Apr 05, 2022 at 06:43

Tuesday, Apr 05, 2022 at 06:43
I’ve used these as well. Work well
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FollowupID: 919147

Reply By: qldcamper - Tuesday, Apr 05, 2022 at 08:18

Tuesday, Apr 05, 2022 at 08:18
Deutsch do a good range and are very reliable and compact, weather resistant too. I use them on my solar and fridge set ups for camping.
AnswerID: 640088

Reply By: ozdoc - Wednesday, May 18, 2022 at 23:31

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 at 23:31
Sorry to keep banging on at this guys but it is bugging the hell out of me. After the last discussion I cut the c7 plug off and joined it to heavy gauge wire ( haven’t got the numbers in front of me but twice as thick as the origional lead) and soldered a new Anderson plug at other end . Still getting a 1. 3 voltage difference between what my battery reads, and what the fridge panel indicator reads, when under load. Watt Meter says peak amp draw on start up is 5.5. I’m starting to think the issue is with the fridge meter? Any helpful suggestions . Ta , doc
AnswerID: 640591

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