Changing 12 outlet on fridge

Not quite sure what you mean. The 12 volt input that comes with the fridge is iec c7 which plugs into its own female socket. The fridge has a separate 3 pin 240 volt input. I want to make a 12 volt lead with Anderson plugs at each end. So I need to remove the Iec c7. 12 volt input from the panel and replace it with an Anderson socket. Not sure if it’s just a plug and play swap over or I should consult a ? Small appliance electrician. I’m comfortable with 12 volt but never touch anything 240.
Doc

No not waeco- it’s a techni ice. Running fine on 12 volt but with the voltage drop from the lead, it means I have less run time on the battery. I have the voltage cut out set low as possible. I would just prefer to minimise the voltage drop and use nice solid connections like Anderson plug. Thanks, doc.

Thanks you kgarn, I have been trying to track these connectors down and had no idea what they were called, IEC C11 and IEC C12 for the female and male.

Any idea where they can be purchased from as Mr Google keeps throwing the 3 pin connectors into the results.

Ye polarised c7 - so a figure of 8 shape with a flat end on one of the short sides. I think Snowmaster fridges and maybe companion have same plug . C8 is the female panel mount . Doc

Ozdoc,
Ok, yes I am aware of the C7P /C8P (polarised plug & socket). just not so common

It may be easiest to just cut the plug off and leave a short length of the existing cable and then extend the short length with say 8 AWG twin cable for the length required and terminate with an anderson. Any voltage drop in the short length of original cable will be negligible.


***********************************

Kazza055,
I understand the C11/C12 are no longer defined under the standard and have been discontinued so probably very hard to find although they seem to be used on some portable fridges

IEC 60320 C11 & C12 Information

IEC C11 and C12 : Removed from the standard

The IEC 60320 C12 Inlet is a polarized version of the C10, and is rated up to 250V and 10 Amps Internationally or 250/125V and 15 Amps in North America. The C11/C12 are nearly identical to the C9/10 except there is a tab on the top of the C12 Inlet that forces polarity. This is for devices that are not internally wired to accept posotive or negative leads to be on either side. The C11/C12 have since been discontinued and are currently not on the IEC 60320 set of standards


Ken

Ta for that Ken. I wasn’t sure if leaving the plug on would still create a voltage drop if I did as you said. I was also looking at trying to use ec5 connector with heavy gauge wire to imitate the c7 plug. Then I started to think about replacing the c8 panel mount socket…then it all started getting too hard and I gave up?????. Doc

There will always be some voltage drop at every connection, but it is somewhat unpredictable and depends on contact resistance etc.
What is more predictable is the voltage drop due to the resistance of connecting cable.
In the case of 8 AWG with a cross sectional area of close to 8 sqmm, the voltage drop would be approx 10mV / metre at 5A and 20mV / meter including the return .
I expect your fridge would draw no more than 5A

The original cable is typically 16AWG (1.3 sq mm) so if you cut it and left say 150 mm before connecting to 8AWG, the the voltage drop along that 150mm at 5A including return would be approx 20mV.

The total voltage drop due to cable length would be 20 + 20 x Length of extension (m).
eg if the length of the 8AWG is 2m then the total voltage drop due to cable would be 20 + (2 x 20) = 60mV (@ 5A)

Of course you then have to add any voltage drop across connectors.

Hopefully someone will check my calcs.
I have assumed R(/m)= (1.72 x 10^-8 x length (m)) / CSA @ 20C and a current of 5A.

Also have a look at the Anderson Power Pole connectors which are for lower rating when you don't need 50A.

I’ve used these as well. Work well