What are the tricks to weld craked differential in the bush

Submitted: Friday, Jul 19, 2002 at 00:00
ThreadID: 1515 Views:2817 Replies:2 FollowUps:2
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Oil and electric welding sticks do not mix. Welding on oil may hide more hair line craks. How do you solve the probleme even after grinding the weld? I have seen 4 weeks ago a 4WD differential being repaired on a Cattle Station to allow the owner to keep going back to Melbourne. Apparently the owner went back to Melbourne OK. So what's the tricks to weld on oily diff and what sort of electric welding sticks should I use? I have seen it and I know it works but the details of the operation needed to be clarified. Can anyone on this forum help me to understand the process/
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Reply By: Member - Mal - Friday, Jul 19, 2002 at 00:00

Friday, Jul 19, 2002 at 00:00
Frank, I have had this problem on many occasions. The company in Newman that service the mineing equiptment charged me for a spray can of electronic degreaser/cleaner. On quizzing them they said it cleans the weld site and penetrates the crack cleaning it without leaving any residue. The process is:1. Empty the diff. 2. clean area with wire brush,then de-greaser then water. 3. Grind a "v" in the crack and beyond slightly. 4. Spray liberally with electronic cleaner (available from "Richard" Smith stores) getting as much pressure into the crack as possible. Weld using three batteries in series using 3.25mm general purpose rods or weld-all rods. If you want to check for cracks, mix some flurocene with water and apply to the surface. the crack will appear a different colour when you look at it in a shaded situation. Carry some electronic cleaner with you as the average farmer doesn't have any. It's good for cleaning lots of things. Mal Try.
AnswerID: 4953

Follow Up By: Frank - Friday, Jul 19, 2002 at 00:00

Friday, Jul 19, 2002 at 00:00
Where would you find, in Australia, the FLUROSCENE srtips or tablets to add to the water? I searched the web without any success. I will get D.Smith cleaner to clean the weld area. Mal, thanks for the excellent information and the type of electrodes.
FollowupID: 2133

Reply By: Derek - Sunday, Jul 21, 2002 at 00:00

Sunday, Jul 21, 2002 at 00:00
Frank, Mal is spot on with his advice to you but I would like to add some more info. Firstly, after completing the weld, weld a small circle at the end of each weld. This will reduce the likelihood of the crack extending after being repaired. Secondly, when I used to do this as part of my job, you could often get away with this type of repair without any form of surface cleaning at all if you used the correct welding rod (I've even heard of guys welding the housing with the oil still inside, though I wouldn't advise it). A visit to CIG and they should be able to help you with which rod to use. And lastly, you can buy crack testing kits from any major bearing company or industrial hardware. Hope this helps.
AnswerID: 4997

Follow Up By: Derek - Sunday, Jul 21, 2002 at 00:00

Sunday, Jul 21, 2002 at 00:00
Frank. Those same bearing companies should also be able to sell you an aerosol Loktite product designed specifically for priming metal surfaces and crack penetration prior to welding or using glue. I used to use a Loktite product called 'wick in' and very successfully used it to repair a crack in the cast iron sump of a D4 dozer (no welding was done).
FollowupID: 2144

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