House solar panel on 4x4 roof

Hi Peter

Thanks for the reply. I won't be driving down the Canning anytime soon, so that gives me some comfort. I just thought those huge panels are really designed to be stationary. The 12v ones that are smaller and have heavier frames, I can see them being OK. mmm

Cheers

Lyndon

Pic.....On the Canning, 2024.
Have no close up pics :(

Those panels did the southern Canning in 2024, northern Canning, Hamersley Range and Anne Beadell in 2025 and is now in Tasmania.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Thanks Peter

I guess I'll give it a go. What size panels are they on the OKA?

3 @ 160W plus 3 @ 200W plus 200W as an awning over the rear window.
https://youtu.be/L2EOrguTzZk
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Lydon.
Depending on the panel either being LONGish or more Square, over a large area the middle of the glass is UNSUPPORTED and while probably OK on an OKA with big wheels and bottoming of suspension unlikely to cause a substantial INSTANT SHOCK to the CENTRE of GLASS MASS, a smaller vehicle like a LC will experience sudden and intense shocks sometimes to the GLASS centre MASS. Although GLASS is truly ELASTIC it only bends past a certain point. Therefore, I have used a thin aluminium strip, 25mm wide, edge on between the side rails and going across the MASS centre, Simply glued on with Polyurethane or SILICON sealant. That edge ON support stops the GLASS bending DOWNWARD in it's centre as the FRAME SUDDENLY is forced UP by the vehicle body. It is an instantaneous action you are wanting to dampen. If using two panels you can use a Reg, Mine 72vOC and reg 100V rating, which is more than the total panel voltage and the SERIES connection will give more overall supply harvest to the reg, and by using same size wiring as before, amps much the same but voltage doubled. The MPPT will then do it's best for you!

PS. I recently packaged THREE LARGE TV's in slim boxes with AMPLE SCREEN/GLASS SUPPORT because leant over they BEND and CRACK by GRAVITY ALONE. All three survived from Vic to Hervey bay in a TRUCK!

Thanks, yes, I was concerned about the middle of a large panel flexing. Car has hard suspension and can shake like S--T in certain conditions.
Cheers

Ha, Serendipity

cheers

Cheers, yeah, have a victron 100/50

Cheers Allan

I'm pretty certain I'll go for a house panel, if it fall to bits, so be it.

The angle is a great idea. I'll think I'll do what RMD suggested and just silicone it from side to side, seeing as it's just to stop the flex. With unit strut to mount it as aforementioned.

Cheers

Lyndon

Yes Batt's, house panels can be up to 40v and do require a regulator rated to accept that voltage.

Victron is good for these. Good quality at a reasonable price.
With my new build I will be using 430W semi flexible panels that are 42V and Victron controllers.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

.
They look good Peter. My only apprehension would be removal if necessary. Especially on a composite roof.
How are you attaching them?

Quote " Just wondering if a special type of solar regulator would be required."

There is nothing special about the regulators used on our homes or in commercial applications. There are three types of regulator that are commonly used for battery charging. The older shunt type that are no longer used. The second type that were introduces are the PWM type that are used when the output voltage of the panels are only a bit higher than the battery charge voltage. Thirdly, there is the MPPT type that "transform" the panels output voltage to match the battery charging voltage.

The MPPT type of charger are the main type used by caravanners. These come with a broad range of maximum permissible input voltages, so you just have to be careful that you select a model that can accommodate your panel array output voltages.

The regulators used in domestic installations without batteries operate the same way as those we use on our vans. They differ from the van models in that their output is 230V AC power and not DC battery charging power.

Allan B said "They look good Peter. My only apprehension would be removal if necessary. Especially on a composite roof.
How are you attaching them?"

They will be attached directly to the roof with either a structural silicone, or VHB tape, yet to be decided.
I have found this mob's advice very sound. Solar4RVs mounting instructions.
I don't want an air gap under them to fill up with red dirt and twigs, but understand that will cost about 10% power when it is hot (but that is also when there is plenty of energy being produced).

Getting them off is easy. Start with a multi-tool around the edges and then use a length of tiny diameter stainless steel fishing cable, or even 100kg fishing braid, with a handle each end.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

......"then use a length of tiny diameter stainless steel fishing cable."
Ah, yes. Just like cheese. Clever.

On a different note when we had our first home built in 1995 I had some pre thought and asked about taller garage openings for a tripple garage attached to the house. The builder said they could leave 1 course/row of bricks out that way I could fit my 1986 HJ61 high roof Sahara in which had 33" tyres.
Then myself and a mate one day fitted a lift kit to the Sahara while it was in the garage then thought hope I can get it out. Ended up with 30mm of clearance luckily.

Series or parallel is an option, or a bit of both such as 3 x 80V.
My new build will have a small Victron for each of 5 panels, each 430W and 42V. Anything fails, the others carry on.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome