Cleaning 'foam' airfilters
Submitted: Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 09:03
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signman
There has been a thread on the foam type air filter elements. We have a FinerFilter flat type on the Rodeo currently using that blue tacky type stuff. Whats the 'good oil' for cleaning the foam?? Petrol/ turps/ kero??? And any substitute for that blue oil??
Thanks all
Reply By: Vince NSW - Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 09:11
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 09:11
Signman,
I have one for the Fronteria sitting in the shed. Used it on 2 trips, great filter, BUT it took me about 1.5 hrs to clean and dry it. I tried turps & kero with the "Blue" oil and followed the instructions for the first time in my life, but it still took forever to clean.
Have used the paper filters on all the trips in last 2 years. I just carry a spare and swap when needed.
Vince
AnswerID:
88445
Reply By: Member - Bradley- Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 10:25
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 10:25
i use kero and it works a treat, you can use petrol if in a bind, dealer i was at used shellite and it also worked
well.
My personal experience is that the finer filter fluid is way too thick ( even when heated) and makes it very easy to overoil the element, i prefer the castrol filter oil, or the silkolene, get it from bike shops , but some bursons etc. have it as
well. Small bottle lasts for ages. Total clean and reoil time for me is usually no more than 15 minutes.
cheers Brad
AnswerID:
88461
Follow Up By: Vince NSW - Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 13:01
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 13:01
How did you dry it?
My instructions said to wash in turps, then use boiling water to wash out the turps and then dry OUT of the sun. Thats what seems to take the time even in central Oz.
Vince
FollowupID:
347367
Follow Up By: Member - Bradley- Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 15:25
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 15:25
mate i just wash it (kero probably has less 'residue') then squeeze out as much as possible, then grab the end and 'whip' it to remove more, then if needed roll it up in a clean rag to soak up any remaining. Have never had any issues with this method,
mine would have been washed at least 15 times , probably closer to 20 and still works and looks like new. Not a hint of dust in my intake pipe or throttle body.
i have never seen anyone washing a normal oiled element in boiling water, k&n filters are another story...
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 16:23
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 16:23
yeh,
I was
mine in kero or turps and wring it out as much as possible. I then put it back into another empty ice cream container and use a hair dryer I keep in the shed to blow it dry for 5 to 10 minutes. I hold the dryer so it blows vertically down into the middle of the round filter.....watch the steam/fumes waft out the top!
Once it's warm and mostly dry, i re-oil using Unifilter oil (from Autopro etc). I tried castrol motor bike filter oil once and it was so acrid, I could smell it coming out the tailpipe and it nearly knocked me rotten. I probably over oiled it.
All up, should only take 15 minutes to clean and re-oil from go to wo.
Cya mate
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Bradley- Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 17:37
Monday, Dec 13, 2004 at 17:37
geez roachie mate you must have good death benifits on that bank super... dont know if i'd like to be sucking fumes into a hairdryer !!
knowing my luck if i fire up the bosch heat gun i'd melt a hole in the bastard. :-))
re- the castrol oil, sounds like a massive over-oil to me, i've never smelt it on
mine.
FollowupID:
347409
Follow Up By: Vince NSW - Tuesday, Dec 14, 2004 at 06:30
Tuesday, Dec 14, 2004 at 06:30
OK so there is the difference betweens the filters.
Mine has an alloy frame so I can't wring it out. Tried eveything (as I am a tight ass and did not want to waste the $70) even tried swinging it on the ends of a rope to get the centrifical action going, but no good.
Oh
well You have talked me into trying again.
Vince
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