Hard Starting 1HZ

oh hang on do you mean turns over well but doesnt start or is difficult to turn over if it is difficult to turn over check your charging at 14v and if so turf your battery they are a very disposeable item in 4bys

funny you should say that just jumped into my work ute after 11 days and no dice. Manuel fuel pump felt a bit doughy so I gave that a bit of pumping then turned it over pumping the throttle finally started to alot of coughing and spluttering. Dont have the same problem with my 2h powered camper even after 3 weeks it starts ok

Probably not the best idea anyway, waiting until your engine coughs and splutters before you change over tanks. Liable to suck up water and sediment in the bottom of your tank. I always change over when I get down to a quarter tank of fuel.
Cheers Peter

very usefull info. I have gone from a 2h wich has an oil lubricated pump to a 1hz with the fuel as lubrication and I hadnt thought of that

bugger dano
i was just going to tellscott to put a nissan badge on it would fix all problems
lolololl
steve

Yes i agree putting a Nissan badge on it would fix the problem. you know we nissan people just have to help out the toyota guys now and again with their low tech poor quality vehicles. you know how it is with those guys, it makes them feel better if they think toyotas are better but we know different.

sure bout that? the 2h motor had a no oil pressure cut off but that was to protect them from destrying themselves if the motor started backwards (I had this happen once) I am sure the 1hz does not have it as it cant run backwards. As for the low oil level that is a warning light only and they will happily run with the sensor lead ripped off

Davoe, the workshop manual for my 99 HZJ 105, with 1HZ motor tells me that it wont start if it does not have oil pressure. This may be the case for scott, or it may not. It was just a suggestion. The 80 series that I owned with 1HZ motor did not have this feature. Just a humble suggestion based on facts that I have in front of me.

sorry not bagging you and I learnt something about later model 1hz however if the low oil pressure cut off works like the one on the 2h motors then it must let the motor run for around 10sec before shutting it down because no motor has oil pressure on startup

I used to have a 2h troopie. When I had problems with dead glow plugs ( and lack of compression, just before it died ) it was quite possible to have oil pressure just by cranking the motor without it actually running. I think you will find that it is the same in any motor, the oil pressure pump is a mechanical device, unless you have some exotic racing beast, that operates by the motor turning over by whatever means. Yes the oil pressure will be low until the motor has turned over a finite amount of time but if there is sufficient oil to prime the oil pump then as soon as you start to rotate the crankshaft oil pressure will start to increase, after a couple of revolutions on a 'good' motor the pressure will have reached a sufficent level to prevent the 'no oil cutoff' switch from operating. I also believe that it is inhibited whilst the starter is operating.
The lack of oil pressure will not prevent the motor from starting, it may prevent it from continuing to run which is a different issue.
ymmv

with regard to hard starting when cold, if the glow plugs are ok, then remove the cables and fittings for the glow plugs and clean every joint/mating surface. Also make sure that there is actually volts getting to the glow plugs. I don't know about the 1hz but it is quite possible to install the links/bars for the glow plug battery feed in such a way that there is no electrical connection on a 2h. Ask the Tojo mechanics who did it to my troopie :-)

Grey beard, I didnt quite get what you meant by no electrical conectionto the glow plug bars. Is this the same as a manuel glow plug button, I had one installed after my glow plug activator relays or whatever died coz it was cheaper. As for the starter building up oil pressure you are right. On cold mornings I found if i started the vehicle without waiting for the glow plugs to warm up (when the system was still working properly) so it turned over quite a bit before starting I was often able to avoid the double start caused by the low oil pressure cutout activating before pressure was built up

on my 2h there is a metal bar/strip connecting the glow plugs. this had a couple of other small metal strips ( about 10mm wide and 1-2mm thick ) which went from the strip connecting the glow plugs to a couple of insulated posts on the intake manifold. part of which is the current sensor to detect current flow to the glow plugs. At the end( start actually ) of all of this was the cable of to the glow plug relay. the electrical connection is via those strips and it relies on the mechanical connection between the strips and the pressure of the holding nut/bolts. after a period of time this can oxidise and increase the resistance of the connection and subsequantly restrict the current to the glow plugs. i removed mine and using a fine file cleaned them.
let me know if you need further clarification.

I see what you mean now I thought you meant the mechanic had made improvements - not stuffed it up btw does that mechanic work for Toyota Kalgoorle now as his experise would be an improvement there :)