2H overheating

Hi Rob,

When it overheats, where does the needle register on the guage?

Does it go into the red zone, or does it travel to about half way?

Does it overheat on level roads, or uphills?

Does the aircon make a big difference?

Don't know what yopu mean by (pneumatic injector pump).

Jim.

Hi Rob, I'm no mechanic but I would say you need to get the block flushed out.
Also, what about the water pump? any corrosion? If airflow and fan/fanbelts ok, then it's most likely slow movement of coolant is problem. Could be turbo/exhaust related if exhaust gasses can't get out of the cylinders quick enough.

I would also look at fitting a mechanical temp guage into the side of the block. Electric temp guages can be moody if vehicle old. Also, standard temp guage is high up in cooling system. If you have a sudden loss of coolant, temp guage cannot show correct reading when its surrounded by air!
I have fitted one of these into every car Iv'e owned (not da 3.0 GU cos I don't know where to put it) and found that it reacts and behaves differently to standard guage.
You can get them from good auto parts place and they come with fittings to suit many cars. Your block has a plug in the left side under exhaust manifold, goes straight into water jacket in the block. Dont bend the metallic pipe like cord that goes to the guage and it with work for ever, does not need power.

As for the turbo, the 2H has pre-combustion chambers which, I think, would negate any problems with extra cylinder pressure. Also any extra pressure would be miniscule compared to what the injectors and injector pump is built to withstand.

Like I said, I'm no mechanic. So someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Cheers,

Muzz

RobV,
On the rear of the injector pump, top of the diaphragm chamber is a nipple and black rubber hose.
On the original 2H normally aspirated this is plumbed to the inlet manifold, above or below the butterfly I can't remember.
Trace it back and see where it is connected after the turbo install.
I think you answered your own question on this when you said, "the previous owner was very pedantic, i dont think he would had let a problem like this go on unrectified"
I really don't think there is or was a problem, I'd imagine the turbo fitters would have this well sorted.
Actually, thinking about it, this is a balanced diaphragm on the 2H injector pump, it has a pipe to each side of the butterfly and works on differential pressure. Or pressure drop across the butterfly.
Doesn't matter if the inlet tract has positive, atmospheric or negative pressure. The diaphragm will still open the fuel rack.
If the system wasn't working you'd never get the engine above idle.

Geoff.

Rob,
I spent 3 years with a heating problem in my 85 sahara ( 3 F) and it turned out to be the fan clutch. When you rev the enging does the fan suck through increasing amounts of air on revving? If it doesn't then this may be the problem. I don't know much but this may help? Cost my $191 for a new one and my car has never run hot since, not even in very soft and loose sand towing a trailer!

Just an opinion that may help you out.

Chappo

replace the silicon fluid in the fan clutch, ~$10-$20 I think there has been a thread on this topic before on here or on the outerlimits4x4 forum

RobV,
I've had two Landcruisers with the 2H engine and they'd both hunt at around 60-70km/h in top gear when fitted with 15inch wheels. Didn't do it on the standard 16inch split rims. (One was a 4 speed, the other a 5 speed)
I put it down to the different circumference changing the gearing and confusing the governor somewhat. Just lived with it.
A dyno and exhaust gas monitoring may solve your overheating.
Also the fan's viscous coupling is an excellent place to start. My mates Hilux started overheating on Fraser Island years ago, was fine on the road. The extra load from the sand was enough to annoy it.
Back to the pump, (this is all from memory, please check the accuracy)
The diaphragm chamber has a wire seal with a lead crimp from memory. The diaphragm itself is actually leather in these models. There is an oil listed in the 2H engine manual for keeping the diaphragm supple.
If I can find my old 2H manual at home I'll post some details from it tonight or tomorrow.

Hope all this helps,
Geoff.

Does your vehicle have a oil cooler fitted to the front part of your radiator or condensor. If so let me know and I may have a fix for you.

Lots of good thoughts above but Q? Does it blow a fair bit of black smoke when loaded up ot revved hard? If so its running too rich & in a deisel that will make it run hot & crack pistons, opposite to a petrol it seems!

Yer Rob,
Whilst my mechanical skills are not one of my strengths I had a slight overheating problem with my '96 troopy while she was under load or working a little.The solution ended up being replacment of the viscous fluid in the cooling fan assembly.(breaks down /looses its consistancy and fan does not spin and cool efficiently)This was obtained through Toyota and apparently is a fairly common prob.As i said Toyota supplied the two small squeeze bottles and once added stopped any fan slippage etc and (co-incidently maybe)I havent had a problem since.May or may not be of any help to you mate but good luck with it.I'd also be interested if any other troopy owners have had this same fan issue.

Yes RobV I had a bad overheating problem whereapon once you gave it a bit of stick the temp gauge would rise to 3/4 and into the red up hills. This is on a 60 series with aftermarket water cooled Turbo. As I said I tried everything, including taking it to the experts who fitted a temp boost gauge and pyrometer and then took it for a run. Boost was max 7 lb at 3500 and egt about 650 to 700 up the biggest long hill with the foot flat to the floor. There was no black smoke out the back so it wasn't overfueling, but the temp went into the red. Asked my friend who owns a 4WD drive business and who done the tests what to do and he replied Burn It or sell it. At the time we where standing at the front of the vehicle when he looked down and noticed the oil cooler in front of the radiator,and said I didn't notice that before. It covered 1/4 of the top of the core. He said I bet thats your problem. He stated 2H motors don't need oil coolers as they have a gallery in the engine that cools the oil. I removed the oil cooler and have never had a problem since. I then cleaned out the oil cooler, mounted it under the L/H guard on the chassis rail, diverted the water from the Turbo through it for additional cooling and when the viscous fan kicks in it gets additional cooling. 2H's I believe don't take to Turboing kindly and the radiator system will cope in the normal aspirated guise, but load it up with a Turbo and then put a very hot oil cooler in front of the most critical part of your radiator and you have problems as I found ou. The temp gauge now runs on a 1/4 normally and will go up to 3/4 if you give it a boot full on the open road or up a steep hill and this is with the air con on. Let me know how you go. Regards.