75 Series Troopy Wheel Bearings

Gday Manic
Four wheel drive, I presume front wheel bearings are done just like any other wheel bearing.
Wash thouroughly in kero or solvent to get all old grease out.
Rinse in water.
Pack with new wheel bearing grease ensure that you get the grease right down between the carrier and the cone. You can buy cheap plastic wheel bearing packers from places like super cheap and work a treat with a grease gun. I have been using one of these for years.
Thoroughly wash theand hub area. Place some grease in the hubs and around the cones.
Place the inner bearing in and fit new seal gently. I usually use the old seal to tap the new one in. Fit the hub/disc rotor and place the outer bearing in, then washer, then adjuster nut. Tighten the adjuster nut firmly to seat the bearing, loosen until you can feel end play in the disc rotor and then tighten again slowly until you just take the end play out of the rotor. Some say back the nut off a flat but I find it too much so it is an experience thing. I usually tighten then loosen several times to ensure everything is seated perfect and on the last time tighten until seated and then just back it off. The reason you have a little free play is to kick the disc pads back in the calipers so they don't ride and also so you don't overload the bearings causing excess heat.
Next step is to fit a new lock tab and then the lock nut. Tighten lock nut and bend lock tabs. Fit free wheel hubs after washing and repacking with new grease and your done.

Best of luck
80s

Manic,

Do you have access to a fax? Have 11 pages here that I can fax, on how to do king pin and wheel bearings, with photos. There used to be an informative piece on this in 80's Cool website, not sure if it's still there.

Can recommend 80's thoughts on the bearing packers, they are great!!! Save grease, pack the rollers in cones properly, and less grease everywhere.

Not too keen on his thoughts on freeplay in bearings though. If you can "feel" free play in bearings then they are too loose. Another way to adjust the bearings is to do the inner nut up tight!!!, spin the wheel a couple of times, then back off the nut about 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn. But as 80 said it's an experience thing.

If the hubs are hot after a run of half an hour, then they may need backing off a further 1/8 turn. If only warm, then all's well.

Another thing we do with the bearing nuts, is put some Loctite Nut Lock "243", on threads. This makes up for any faults with the locking washer.

Hooroo...

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

You'll find a run down of the wheel bearig stuff incl pictures at the LCOOL tech pages

Also, LCOOL have just started a new group called 70scool. Norm Needham wrote those articles and is on that email group if you have any questions.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/70scool/

Cheers
Phil

Thanks 80scruiser, Bob, ToyMotor and Phil for you advise.

Once I got the vehicle up on the stands it became apparent that the majority of the play was in fact in the king pin not the wheel bearings. I do have a fax here at work Bob and would be interested in seeing the info about the king pin / wheel bearing replacement.

Anyway, the bearing play was a little more than necessary but the bearings were fine and after a re-pack the vehicle drives quite nicely. The brakes feel much nicer too now that there's very little movement in the hub.

I'll do some research and attack the king pin bearings at a latter date once I've got all the bits because I'll replace all the seals whilst I’ve got it all apart and I'll also replace the front rotors and wheel bearings when I do this because the rotors are a little tired.

Thanks again all for your advice. I often wonder what we used to do before we had the internet because it's such an invaluable tool when you start doing this sort of thing.

PS. I read the bit about the bearing packer after the trip to Repco ‘unfortunately’ but will definitely get one for next time. Sounds a bit less messy than packing the bearings by hand.

-Manic