Replace clutch: Take engine out OR Take gearbox out?

By the way, any idea how much are they? Which brand do you recommend for serious offroading?

Stick with your mates idea he is the mechanic afterall. It think you really need to sit back and think about how much other stuff you have to take off,out or disconnect if you take the engine out.

Your joking aren't you mate!!! He's not a mechanic for nothing !!

As soon as you get half way through taking the engine out you will know why it's not normally done that way.

Hmmm,
Any vehicle other than a Patrol, I'd reckon it'd be much easier to drop the 'box, but I do believe that the Patrol g'box is one H-E-A-V-Y mother***king SOB, so if you don't have the means to support it properly (& safely), you may well have a point!...

Just one thing to keep in mind if removing the engine... If the vehicle has air-con, you'll have to disconnect the pipes, & AFAIK, it's illegal (not to mention irresponsible!) to release the gas to atmosphere, so you'll have to get a "suitably qualified person" (with the correct equipment) to evacuate the system before disconnecting said pipes...

Good luck with it whichever way you go...

Regards, Ed. C.

Hi 2ndlow

Did mine in my old gq last year , was easy to take box out, with your mate being mechanic , should even be easier........Cheers ...Dave

Definitely .... the box.

Did mine a while ago to whack in a CentreForce clutch. You will need a couple of GOOD hydraulic jacks (floor type), some lumps of wood cut to shape to cradle the 'box on and a LOT OF EFFORT :) The GQ's aren't known for their driveline strength for nothing - as the previous poster said - they're HEAVY!!

If you want to keep him as your mate - drop the box. Just reverse the rear up onto good car ramps, that way the box will be relatively level once the rear x-member is off.

Just follow your mates directions and then do the first test drive to the local drive-through to pay him.

Best of luck.

Have done a few and even with a gearbox jack (has a flat plate with bolts to adjust the different heights at the corners and chains to secure the box to it) and it was a priick of a job!!

The box weighs a ton and the clearance between the bellhousing and trans tunnel is next to nothing. So when you need to pull the box backwards to clear the input shaft from the pressure plate.....uhhh buggar!! Lots of pulling, wiggling and lowering to extream angles of the engine will get you there eventually.

Goodluck, he sounds like a GOOD mate to be jumping in there with you!!

I doubt you will be able to shake his hand afterwards cos your arms will be full of the cartons you will owe him!!

Matt.

I remember taking the box out of my G60 about 20 yrs ago (time flies) and being a novice was right under it wriggling it out and when it finally dropped....yep, I was under it and it weeeeeighed heaps. lucky my bro in-law was there to rescue me.

Take your mates advice and remove the box, if you think it is heavy wait until you weigh the motor and find all the bits to undo and put bac.

The mechanic will be worth all this weight in gold for helping you.

Vinnie

I've replaced two GQ clutches in the last couple of months and I would say without hesitation - take the motor out if you have a block and tackle or an engine crane.

The first time I took the gearbox out, with the second vehicle/clutch job the motor.

To remove the gearbox you need to remove the front seats, center console, front floor mats, gear lever, both driveshafts, bellhousing bolts, crossmember etc and then manouver the heavy &%%$$^!. Theres also wiring to the gearbox
(reverse light, 4WD light, speedo pickup), handbrake cables etc but thats the easy bit, getting it back in and mated with the engine is the hard bit - due the design of the body transmisison tunnel around the bellhousing.

You will have to disconnect the exhaust and the engine mounts anyway to tilt the motor RIGHT back so the rocker cover is virtually touching the firewall when you replace the gearbox because as someone said earlier there is no clearance around the bellhousing. (n the factory, the body is lowered onto the motor and gearbox already connected and sitting in the chassis). Once you've done all this the motor is virtually ready to lift out anyway, apart from the removing the bonnet and radiator - easy.

Air con is not an issue as you just unbolt the compressor and tie it back in the engine bay. No need to disconnect the AC plumbing. You have to remove all the bellhousing bolts anyway, now the engine is only a matter of a couple of engine mount bolts and some wires, cables, hoses which unplug easily, radiator and bonnet. The other benefit of removing the motor is the flywheel is at a good working height for replacing and aligning the clutch when replacing it. Make sure you remove and machine the flywheel while you're at it (shouldnt be more than $40 or so)

I wouldnt advise removing the motor on every vehicle when doing a clutch job but on a a GQ - yes. I know your mate will have done plenty of clutch replacements but ask him if he's done any on a GQ. As I said ealier, the hassles arise from the lack of body clearance around the bellhousing when trying the get the gearbox back into position and from the sheer weight of the box/transfer itself (appx 180kg).

Clutch kits for 4.2 Diesel GQ's are not cheap, shop around and if you get one for less than $400 you've done well.

In the end, its your decision of course.

If you opt for the gearbox removal try removing the right engine mount first which will give you a little bit extra clearance from the tunnel to bell housing. Its mainly the starter motor bulge that gives the drama.
Best of luck.