Servicing Patrol - what interval

Submitted: Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 13:16
ThreadID: 19723 Views:1979 Replies:5 FollowUps:8
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I have just bought a 3.0TD 2002 Patrol Auto. Looking at the service manual it says every 5,000kms for indirect injection motors so I assume that every 10,000kms is acceptable for warranty? Should I service it every 5kms anyway? It has the extra nissan warranty and I was thinking to save money I could change the oil in between the 10km services myself. If I do that I suppose I shouldn't write it in the book as Nissan may refuse warranty claims if I have serviced it myself?

My brother is about to buy a 4.2D (non-turbo) 1999 ute. What is the service interval for that motor?
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Reply By: Member - Davoe (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 13:33

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 13:33
Always a bit suss about these extended service times. I think some petrol vehicles are up to 20k+ I think it has something to do with the concept of total cost of ownership witch is becoming big ie which vehicle is the most expensive to own over its entire life. This may be fine for the car dealer to say x vehicle costs less to own because it needs servicing every 10k where as y vehicle needs servicing every 5k but what about after the predicted 7 year lifespan? we are not in Japan or even Europe most of us own vehicles 10 - 30 years old. Having dsaid all that the new generation Diesals are alot cleaner and could well place alot less demand on the oil in relation to soot deposits.
The 4.2d non turbo is old school and should have oil changed every 5k and filter every 10k (filter every 5k to really be sure - but then that does start getting xpensive)
AnswerID: 94651

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:11

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:11
Our mitsubishi express van (which has the same crappy 2.0L carby fed peice o' crap motor that they have been flogging for over 15 years) has has magically got 15k service intervals but the old one (with the same motor) had 10k intervals........ Hmmm.....
FollowupID: 353594

Reply By: Shep - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 15:10

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 15:10
H20, top vehicle,
Ours is a late 2001 80,000Km ,if you read the service manual fine print * it states 3.0Td oil every 10K , however like everone else I slip new oil in in between services @ 5k intervals.
My advise is to ensure your using the right spec oil for your truck, very few oils suit the required SE_SJ SL CD recomendation for the 3.0lt.
With regards to warranty I don,t record the extra oil changes but I do keep the receipts for if ever there was an issue, I can state with proof That I have provided addition preventative oil services that comply with Nissans recommendations.
AnswerID: 94663

Follow Up By: 3.0turbob - Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 08:27

Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 08:27
I change mine every 5000k as well, including filter. The manual states "Recommended 20W-40 or 20W-50 API CD, CE,CF or CF-4" it also says NEVER use API C-G4. Therefore I use the Nissan diesel oil as it meets these specs, and as always keep all my receipts. The air filter also seems to get dirty fairly quickly so I change that every 6 - 8 months, at only $30 (from Nissan) its not much to keep the engine breathing freely.

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Reply By: Member - Captain (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 15:20

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 15:20
Hi H2O,

I change the oil myself every 5,000kms between the 10,000kms service intervals done by the dealer.

Changing the oil is such cheap insurance that I recommend it for any diesel motor at 5,000km intervals.


AnswerID: 94664

Reply By: Member - Bradley- Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 17:27

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 17:27
spot on captain, cheap insurance

sorry davoe, new diesels put a hell of a load on the oil as far as soot loading goes, check out an earlier post about 'bleeps oils" for my replies.

H20 - mate any diesel in half decent knick nowdays needs the oil and filter done religiously at 5k intervals, whether the book says it or not. The reducing sulpher levels in diesel are making the soot issues worse all the time. And any of the high tech motors like yours really need the best gear you can put in them, get it onto a CI-4 rated oil as soon as possible before it gums up the oil passages etc. too much. Good idea re- not writing it in if you are worried about warranty knockback, and buy your chosen oil in 20 lt drums and supply it to the dealer at servicing time, so you are not chopping and changing brands and types.

AnswerID: 94697

Reply By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:14

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:14
Yup, I do my filter and oil every 5k. Even on petrols. You can have it done before you first cuppa on a saturday morning, so quick and easy to do!
AnswerID: 94705

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:28

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:28
easy done with a petrol. my 1978 camper would cost bugger all, just get that 5l for the price of 4 valvoline oil, filters wernt dear take it for a spin down the shops grab a six pack after that was 1/2 gone change the filter and refill. Dont get much change from $70 for my yotas and thats using the cheapest name brand oil I can get (shell helix last time). Then theres disposing of all that oil, I currently have about 40l of diff and engine oil sitting in containers out the back and another 10l over the ground
And whats this about getting it done before your first cuppa - you do take it for a drive first dont you?
FollowupID: 353595

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:36

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:36
Oh yeah, you gotta have it hot. I go down the deli and grab my coffe chill and paper, then it's nice an warm.

But bloody hell I know what you mean, mine takes 8.6L of oil!!!! I have an old rusty jerry can that I poor my old oil into and keep the old 10L containers as well.

I also use Shell, 15w40 Diesel Super. Pretty good at $44 for 10L. Filters about $20, so yeah your lookin at about $64 just for oil and filter!
FollowupID: 353596

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:44

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:44
luckily both 2h motors and 1hz take exactly 10l of oil so it is oil out oil in. I have wondered why they take so much oil and there is 2 reasons I can think of 1) the more oil the more soot can be effectivly suspended and or 2) no dry oil pickup during extended cross slope driving
FollowupID: 353597

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:59

Monday, Jan 24, 2005 at 19:59
Yup I reckon you'd be right on those two points. Even after 5k of city driving my oil is dirty as. It's clean when I first put it in and run it, but it degrades very quickly. At least it's doing it's job!! But I reckon I could probally do with the extra 2L you got! LOL
FollowupID: 353598

Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 00:12

Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 00:12
Hi Guys,

I too warm my engine before draining but was once asked " why do that, if you leave it overnight even more oil drains down to the sump and that way you remove virtually all oil. As for contaminants on the sump bottom, they get carried away when draining, just leave it longer to make sure it all drains out"

It makes sense and the only way to prove it is to somehow look in the sump bottom when doing it each way to see if it does make a difference. Dunno what is best, i still warm mine up because thats the recommended way and I don't know whats better. Just a point to ponder!!!


FollowupID: 353630

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 12:51

Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005 at 12:51
G'day captain! Both the theories have their merits, however I have changed oil on vehicles in the past when cold and you deffinatally get more oil come out when hot, so it must be the way to go! :-P
FollowupID: 353686

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