Body Blocks on an 80 series

Sorry to hijak the thread, but you need to look on ebay Eric...there are 4 16x10 alloys with 35 Baja claws suit 100 series on there....
I run 35's with the equivalent of 868's on the back of my 80...you need to get some rims that are a little wider in the offset...ROH make them with 75 series offset that spaces them 1 inch further out than factory offset...this sits the tyre in line with the outer edge of the flares, and allows no rubbing on the inside of the rear wheel arches. :-)
Putting body lift of 25mm is ok, the rad can be redrilled to sit lower in the support panel and keep the alignment, but all other things around the mudflap areas suffer, bettr to keep it as is.
Andrew

Hi Andrew . I am all ready running 35 on my rig (315x75x16) BFG muds
I dont get any rubbing at all . I have already put 36" centerpeeds on the 100 series and I am experiencing rubbing on the inner guards with the steel rims . I am going to look at the alloy wheel offset before I do anything . But still waiting for the snail to be fitted Wednesday before I get a chance to do anything else .

Ps I am going t give the 3rd range a go on this car , mainly panard rods and rear top adjustable arms to get tailshaft a little straighter ( not that its to much of a issue ) not to mention 3 new roof lights ( bastards )

I dont understand how doing a cut and shut on bull bars and the rest of the things you need to do is cheeper , than the componnents you need for a 4' LIFT . If your a Nissan owner , I could understand the confusion . Cruisers dont have drive train angle problems at 4"

I dont agree I found it to be very strait forward. A small noth in the housing plate soles the short stick and a $2 15mm puck of polyurethane solves the steering shaft.
You can even shift the existing radiator brackets up to the top stud to lower the radiator. The hardest part was making sure you had the right size bolts and even this was a no brainer.

4" on the 80, you could get away without Panhard rods, but it's not recomended. I have a 4" lift and I strongly recommend you fit rods and caster plates or bushes or drop radius arms and a decent dampened if your going for the 35's.
I also have a 2" body lift, 18 months on and a lot of hard Kms there are no side affects. I also run without the sway bars and use the adj shocks to compensate, again no problems. I also run 35's and this is my daily driver.
I am not "guessing", this is not what "I've heard", this is rolling proof.

4" on the 80, you could get away without Panhard rods, but it's not recomended. I have a 4" lift and I strongly recommend you fit rods and caster plates or bushes or drop radius arms and a decent dampener if your going for the 35's.
I also have a 2" body lift, 18 months on and a lot of hard Kms there are no side affects. I also run without the sway bars and use the adj shocks to compensate, again no problems. I also run 35's and this is my daily driver.
I am not "guessing", this is not what "I've heard", this is rolling proof.

Mr duck
I hope i didnt ruffled your feathers too much with "ive heard" in my post....im on most of the lists you are, so i hear lots of things....
I said up to 4 inches is easy...and 6 would mean more involved steering mods...ie without changing leading arms or flipping them over,(needing engineering changes) you cant get caster right lifting over 4 inches, because the steering arm hits the control arm at 5 degrese...with a 6 inch lift, you need to move 8 degrese to get good steering back. You also start to bend steering box main shafts right??(crankycruiser)
if you could theoretically lift 6 by 4 susp and 2 body, you save $$ and the car is more stable on road and off because the ctr of gravity has only been lifted 4 inches (most the weight is in the chassis and driveline) compared to a 6 inch suspension lift.
Thats my 2 cents worth....ive done both one time or another. The 6 inch lift was a PITA to drive because i didnt flip or change front arms...
My cruiser runs 4 at the moment. Ive done the pannies, caster mod off lcool.org, adjustable doggies, and spaced the front swaybar down to miss the driveshaft.....lockers take care of the missed out articulation.
Take it easy, see you in the bush
Andrew

Feathers intact Doz, I was more concerned with Ewic's response. The leap from 2-4 is more than he makes out, if you want it working properly. 4-6 and beyond is in my book not worth the effort so I agree with you 100%, Cranky is living proof. I'll take my split 6" and run beside his 7" and we'll see who breaks first ;-)
A little off the subject mark seeing as 1" Body was the original mark.

No difference in engine temp on rocks and is okay in city traffic but significant change on beach sand. Had to turn air con off. Will be rectifiying radiator situation ASAP (I busted the shroud which is why it stayed that way). Other than that I have had no problems of significance other than last weeks trip back to Perth where I couldn't get over 90 km/h. I was loaded to the eyeballs, roof rack included, towing an off road trailer with my Harley on board, air con flat out and 45 plus degrees outside so I can't complain really.
I have a diagram of chassis and block locations if you need it. I changed diameter of bolts to 12mm but this is not possible with front or rear blocks. I used 10mm threaded rod on front and used front bolts on rear. I have made a number of postings on what I did for my body lift so a site search should get you what you need if you haven't got it already.

P.S. I did leave the Pilbara because it was too bloody hot but also due to plant closure and being made redundant, requiring a change of job status. Moving to Kalgoorlie this month to start a new position with a new employer.