Body Blocks on an 80 series

Submitted: Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 15:54
ThreadID: 19888 Views:4584 Replies:7 FollowUps:10
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Im looking at sticking some 1" body blocks on my '94 80 to get some 35" rubber in there and Im chasing some pointers.

http://www.bigballsoffroad.com/webcontent48.htm
very informative and helpful, But I am chasing some advice first-

Of the parts mounted to the chassis, what needed maintenance?
How did you sort the radiator cowling? Is the body in reference to the roobar, rear bar etc looking completely out of place?
Have you stuck 35's on there without fouling guards? I've got OME 868s with no fouling on 33's- logic says I should be right, but id like confirmation.
How hard was it to get it certified (if you did end up getting it certified)? did you have a suspension lift on there as well?

also in general, are you aware of any great difference between the materials used for the blocks? (ali, steel, poly...)

CHEERS!

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Reply By: Member Eric - Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 18:26

Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 18:26
Ok well I am not a fan of body lift , unless it's the last resort. To many mod's for a small lift of 1"

For a start ,

seprate body from chassis
lengthen or refit steel brake lines
lenthen steering shaft ,
drop radiator
lift bullbar ( or lights will be affected by cross bar )
Lift rear bar , or you will have a gap since they are bolted to chassis
Play around with gear leavers due to them droping 1"

If you want 35's they will fit with a 4" suspention lift

Front rear springs
front rear shocks
2 extended brake lines
2 extended diff breathers
spacer blocks for sway bar
caster correction bushes
change gearing in diffs ( can get away with it but pain in the a*s on highway)

Cheers , hope this helps
AnswerID: 95545

Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:46

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:46
Sorry to hijak the thread, but you need to look on ebay Eric...there are 4 16x10 alloys with 35 Baja claws suit 100 series on there....
I run 35's with the equivalent of 868's on the back of my 80...you need to get some rims that are a little wider in the offset...ROH make them with 75 series offset that spaces them 1 inch further out than factory offset...this sits the tyre in line with the outer edge of the flares, and allows no rubbing on the inside of the rear wheel arches. :-)
Putting body lift of 25mm is ok, the rad can be redrilled to sit lower in the support panel and keep the alignment, but all other things around the mudflap areas suffer, bettr to keep it as is.
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Member Eric - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:57

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:57
Hi Andrew . I am all ready running 35 on my rig (315x75x16) BFG muds
I dont get any rubbing at all . I have already put 36" centerpeeds on the 100 series and I am experiencing rubbing on the inner guards with the steel rims . I am going to look at the alloy wheel offset before I do anything . But still waiting for the snail to be fitted Wednesday before I get a chance to do anything else .

Ps I am going t give the 3rd range a go on this car , mainly panard rods and rear top adjustable arms to get tailshaft a little straighter ( not that its to much of a issue ) not to mention 3 new roof lights ( bastards )
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Reply By: Member - Robb (NSW) - Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 19:45

Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 19:45
Gday Ben, I totally agree with Eric, Body Blocks are a pain in the behind and if you dont have to do it, then dont. A four inch lift on our work 100 series was all that was needed to get 35's on without fouling... One thing to keep in mind though (in NSW), with a 4 inch lift and 35's your headlights will probably be above legal height and therefore your car will be un-roadworthy, which in turn will render your insurance invalid....

Cheers
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Reply By: Lilblkduck - Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 20:34

Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 20:34
1" is not worth the hassel, get serious and go 2".
Contrary to what you've been told, the lift on the 80's is a piece of cake.
If you havent done the spring lift yet however you're better off starting there.
2" of spring lift is a compromise to keep the MAN happy.
4" of spring means mods to the rest of your steering and suspension so don't go there unless your really seriouse.

2"Spring + 2" Body is your easiest/cheapest route to shoe horning 35's, and you'll handle a lot better and have the best of both worlds.

AnswerID: 95560

Follow Up By: Member Eric - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 10:15

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 10:15
I dont understand how doing a cut and shut on bull bars and the rest of the things you need to do is cheeper , than the componnents you need for a 4' LIFT . If your a Nissan owner , I could understand the confusion . Cruisers dont have drive train angle problems at 4"
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Reply By: Bonz (Vic) - Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 21:51

Saturday, Jan 29, 2005 at 21:51
Body Blocks under 80 series cause the chassis to warp and the mounts to crack, I would steer clear of them
.
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Reply By: Coops (Ex-Pilbara) - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 13:25

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 13:25
take it from me Ben and go for an increased suspension lift instead.
Roo Bar & Rear bar look sooooo stupid and cowling issue still not sorted so still running without a shroud.
No certification for me as yet but will be attempting soon if I go ahead with V8 conversion.
I have a 2" suspension lift and now 2" body lift. First chance I get I'll be going to a 4" suspension lift.
All brake lines, fuel lines etc are okay with 50 mm body lift but I'd thoroughly recommend that if you go ahead with this process that you go no higher than 40mm to avoid all the issues with the short stick and steering shaft extension.
I used a very hard poly block as opposed to steel.
This is not a straightforward job Ben and will turn inot a major pain in the butt - trsut me on that one.
Don't know about the comment on chassis warping & mounts cracking but I believe it was a much quieter & better handling machine prior to body lift.
You don't see many 80's with a body lift and these are all the reasons why

Feel free to ask more questions
AnswerID: 95630

Follow Up By: Lilblkduck - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:26

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:26
I dont agree I found it to be very strait forward. A small noth in the housing plate soles the short stick and a $2 15mm puck of polyurethane solves the steering shaft.
You can even shift the existing radiator brackets up to the top stud to lower the radiator. The hardest part was making sure you had the right size bolts and even this was a no brainer.
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Reply By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:51

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 15:51
From what i have heard, up to 4 inch lift with suspension on an 80 is easy, going over that is more involved steering wise, so body lift is prefered with a 4 inch lift as opposed to a 6 inch suspension...(not to mention the centre of gravity is lower with body lift)
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Lilblkduck - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:15

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:15
4" on the 80, you could get away without Panhard rods, but it's not recomended. I have a 4" lift and I strongly recommend you fit rods and caster plates or bushes or drop radius arms and a decent dampened if your going for the 35's.
I also have a 2" body lift, 18 months on and a lot of hard Kms there are no side affects. I also run without the sway bars and use the adj shocks to compensate, again no problems. I also run 35's and this is my daily driver.
I am not "guessing", this is not what "I've heard", this is rolling proof.
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Follow Up By: Lilblkduck - Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:29

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 21:29
4" on the 80, you could get away without Panhard rods, but it's not recomended. I have a 4" lift and I strongly recommend you fit rods and caster plates or bushes or drop radius arms and a decent dampener if your going for the 35's.
I also have a 2" body lift, 18 months on and a lot of hard Kms there are no side affects. I also run without the sway bars and use the adj shocks to compensate, again no problems. I also run 35's and this is my daily driver.
I am not "guessing", this is not what "I've heard", this is rolling proof.
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 22:43

Sunday, Jan 30, 2005 at 22:43
Mr duck
I hope i didnt ruffled your feathers too much with "ive heard" in my post....im on most of the lists you are, so i hear lots of things....
I said up to 4 inches is easy...and 6 would mean more involved steering mods...ie without changing leading arms or flipping them over,(needing engineering changes) you cant get caster right lifting over 4 inches, because the steering arm hits the control arm at 5 degrese...with a 6 inch lift, you need to move 8 degrese to get good steering back. You also start to bend steering box main shafts right??(crankycruiser)
if you could theoretically lift 6 by 4 susp and 2 body, you save $$ and the car is more stable on road and off because the ctr of gravity has only been lifted 4 inches (most the weight is in the chassis and driveline) compared to a 6 inch suspension lift.
Thats my 2 cents worth....ive done both one time or another. The 6 inch lift was a PITA to drive because i didnt flip or change front arms...
My cruiser runs 4 at the moment. Ive done the pannies, caster mod off lcool.org, adjustable doggies, and spaced the front swaybar down to miss the driveshaft.....lockers take care of the missed out articulation.
Take it easy, see you in the bush
Andrew

b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Lilblkduck - Monday, Jan 31, 2005 at 20:47

Monday, Jan 31, 2005 at 20:47
Feathers intact Doz, I was more concerned with Ewic's response. The leap from 2-4 is more than he makes out, if you want it working properly. 4-6 and beyond is in my book not worth the effort so I agree with you 100%, Cranky is living proof. I'll take my split 6" and run beside his 7" and we'll see who breaks first ;-)
A little off the subject mark seeing as 1" Body was the original mark.

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Reply By: BenSpoon - Monday, Jan 31, 2005 at 20:04

Monday, Jan 31, 2005 at 20:04
Cheers all.

I was reluctant to go for the 4" because Id just finished going through a number of sets of 2-3" coils and shocks and finally I found a setup I'm happy with. That and I wasnt keen to raise the CofG- big bertha is easy enough to roll as it is. It sounds like the 4" is the way to go for the 35s though.

Dozer- Are you running any body lift on there, or purely the lifted springs? did you have to lengthen the bump stops, or are you letting the spring/shock/whatever limit compression?
Are you running different ring gears to compensate for the 35s? is there much of a difference in articulation from 2" to 4" that you have noticed?
Have you noticed greater wear on steering having the deeper dish rims? also is there any scuffing up front at full lock and compression?

Coops- is there a noticeable difference in engine temp crawling on the rocks without any cowling? is that why you left the pilbara??

Im keen on an 8-inch suspension lift, but having seen the crap that you have to go through to get it legal (last 80 I saw was on his 4th failed lane change test) a decent 5-link would have been the same price as he spent on the RTA engineers alone.
AnswerID: 95901

Follow Up By: Coops (Ex-Pilbara) - Tuesday, Feb 01, 2005 at 09:55

Tuesday, Feb 01, 2005 at 09:55
No difference in engine temp on rocks and is okay in city traffic but significant change on beach sand. Had to turn air con off. Will be rectifiying radiator situation ASAP (I busted the shroud which is why it stayed that way). Other than that I have had no problems of significance other than last weeks trip back to Perth where I couldn't get over 90 km/h. I was loaded to the eyeballs, roof rack included, towing an off road trailer with my Harley on board, air con flat out and 45 plus degrees outside so I can't complain really.
I have a diagram of chassis and block locations if you need it. I changed diameter of bolts to 12mm but this is not possible with front or rear blocks. I used 10mm threaded rod on front and used front bolts on rear. I have made a number of postings on what I did for my body lift so a site search should get you what you need if you haven't got it already.

P.S. I did leave the Pilbara because it was too bloody hot but also due to plant closure and being made redundant, requiring a change of job status. Moving to Kalgoorlie this month to start a new position with a new employer.
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