Air Condition Compressor Bearing.

had the same problem not too long ago-
doesnt sound like its the compressor if its still noisy when its disengaged.

I initially thought mine was the pulley bearings, went to toyota, got the bearing part numbers, took the numbers to coventrys and got replacement bearings- Not much use as it turns out this wasnt the problem. Worth a try for you though for an $8 fix.

My problem was the clutch material had worn down to the point i was metal on metal between the pulley wheel and clutch part. Off to toyota genuine for the air con clutch rebuild kit (from memory the clutch part ONLY was $400 odd but the kit - clutch unit, pulley wheel, electro magnet was ony $180- explain that!) had a whinge to the bloke about the price and he gave me trade $140- dealers were only going to sell the whole compressor for $700!

Take off belt, take off clutch unit bolt (10mm?) and clutch unit- watch out for the spacers that will fall out from inside the clutch unit drive socket, take off internal circlip holding in pulley wheel, take off pulley wheel (best done on a cold day- slips right off. On a warm day its a pig to even make it budge). When it all goes back together make sure you have the clearances between the clutch unit and the pulley wheel- give toyota a ring for that or check the manual- 1/32" i think.

Love the sound of silence.

Bearing is cheap to buy, expensive to change...you can take the front off and gently pry the rubber grease seal off and refill it with grease b4 reinstalling seal...thats worked b4. but if your there, you need 4 hands and 2 circlip plyewrs to get the circlip off b4 the brg will come out...after that it is ses bearings and all is well again...no gas escapes at all.
Andrew
ps hope u have a diesel...im talking petrol and there pumps are next to the steering box....

put a new bearing in it mate! or just grease up the old one, probably dry as a ddd

The bearings are a sealed unit.
Dozer- dead right about the circlips being a pain to get out!! a nicely positioned mirror wedged against engine block and fan blades, a well-positioned torch, and a helluva lot of patience on the circlip pliers is needed!

Thanks for all the advice. Yep, its a T/D, so I may have probs. One more thing, whats the best way to stop the pulley from turning when loosening the front 10 mm bolt off??

I used a chain wrench to hold it- went and bought it for changing my shocks and its come in bloody handy since then on many occcasions. Rigid tool: chain is about 30-40cm long. Set me back $120 odd from an industrial supplier- money well spent.