Can you have too many batteries?
Submitted: Sunday, Feb 06, 2005 at 10:06
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Paul
Hi,
Have a Patrol GU, also have a
Jumbuck Camper.
I'm looking to put a Dual battery system in the Patrol, and the
Jumbuck already has a small cranking battery in it but it is on the way out.
I've been told not to bother with Deep Cycle batteries and I would be better to buy in two more cranking batteries same size OR LARGER than my starting battery
Supercharge Gold MF MF95D31L 720CCA 160AH $130
I'd run some 6-8mm cable down to the camper to charge that battery, I'd throw some heavy duty isolator switchs inbetween the start battery and the other batteries.....now the alternator in the Patrols are rated at 90 amps, If I run the 2nd battery and the camper trailer battery down and partially drain the cranking battery could the alternator cope with load of charging all three batteries?
Should I look at putting a deep cycle in the camper? Only reason I hesitant about Deep cycle is you never get them back to 100% charge when out the middle of nowhere as the require 15-16Volts to charge up to 100%. Alternators only output 14.8 which satisfys the thirst of cranking batteries to get them to 100%.
Paul
Reply By: drivesafe - Sunday, Feb 06, 2005 at 13:14
Sunday, Feb 06, 2005 at 13:14
Hi Paul, I would personally use a deep cycle in the camper because it can be left for longer periods between charges.
The cable you suggested is fine as long as you take two things into account.
One, you can use any size cable to charge the rear battery but make sure you protect the cable from shorts and overloads, EG. put circuit breakers at both ends and use a circuit breaker with a rating no greater than the current rating of the cable you are using.
Two The lager the cable the quicker the rear battery will charge. If you had to, you could use speaker wire to charge the battery but it would probably take days not hours to put a decent charge back in the battery.
Next, your alternator will easily charge up all three batteries but this will depend on how fast you are going, IE. how fast the alternator is turning.
Your cranking battery will probably pull 20 to 25 amps for about 30 seconds and then drop off over the next 10 minuets to a basic charge current of no more than about 4 amps.
The amount of charge that the other batteries pull depends greatly on how low they are when you start to recharge them but the absolute maximum current draw for each battery after the first minute or so, is again about 20 to 25 amps for a short time and that will taper off as they charge.
As for how much you can get into them, you may or may not reach 100% but you will get to 95 to 98% depending on how long you drive for.
AnswerID:
96937
Follow Up By: David Au - Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 09:08
Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 09:08
Drivesafe> what a load of absolute bull manure "Next, your alternator will easily charge up all three batteries but this will depend on how fast you are going, IE. how fast the alternator is turning. "
Drivesafe you know little about nothing and even less about anything to do with batteries or twelve volt systems. Drivesafe toddle off back to nanny gregor for a nappy change.
FollowupID:
355652
Reply By: Member - muzzgit - Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 02:19
Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 02:19
Use the heavy cable, and connect POS and NEG direct from camper to second battery in car with circuit breakers, don't try to earth from chassis. Make sure you insulate it properly, someone here mentioned pvc piping, perfect !! Convoluted tubing is good too. Use a 50 amp anderson plug at the rear of the car, and swap batteries between car and camper if you want faster charging.
Isolator switches in the patrol MUST be spike protected, Redarc is a good one !
If you think you won't be driving enough to keep power for everything, I would recommend a generator for longer trips. Anything over 3 days without much driving and I'm stuffed without my gennie. The deep cycle in my patrol will happily run the waeco and a SMALL fluro with only a little 4WDriving each day on long weekends and such, but that's about it.
I'm surprised others on here havn't tried to talk you into solar panels 'n stuff, but not everyone's got the mulah for that, am I right amigo !
AnswerID:
97033
Reply By: MrBitchi - Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 14:05
Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 14:05
If you have an isolator fitted (Redarc or similar) the cranking battery will charge first, before the isolator connects the auxillary batteries. Once the cranking battery is charged then its just a matter of how long you run the car as to how much charge you put back in the auxillaries. Maybe you wont get a 100% charge in a deep cycle but if you're going to run it down regularly then a deep cycle will survive a lot better than a cranking battery. That's why they call them 'deep cycle' :--))
You'll find lots of people on this site endlessly arguing about .1V here or .2V there, 90% charge v 95% charge and getting all hot under the collar about it.
AFAIC as long as the fridge runs she's OK. Fridge stops, time to go for a drive. Redarc means cranking battery never gets affected by fridge.
Quote:-Only reason I hesitant about Deep cycle is you never get them back to 100% charge when out the middle of nowhere as the require 15-16Volts to charge up to 100% /Quote
Duh?? first time i've ever heard that one......
Cheers,
John.
AnswerID:
97096
Reply By: Member - Hugh (WA) - Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 15:44
Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 15:44
Hi Paul,
I have a GU Patrol and camper trailer.
I have twin battery set-up (bothing cranking batteries) in the GU via a Redarc solenoid. For the camper I fitted a hybrid (marine) battery which is cranking but can handle being drained on regular basis. I get all my batteries from Challenge Batteries here in
Perth (I think they brand them as PowerBreed). I have used 6B&S cable (25mm2) via a 50A anderson plug to charge the camper trailer battery. I put a 50A circuit breaker ~ 5cm after the Redarc solenoid on this circuit.
I charge both auxilary batteries in parallel from the Redarc solenoid i.e. have cables going to each battery. I figured for most of the time it only charges the second battery, and for those occasions when the trailer is in tow any voltage diff between the auxilary batteries will even out when connected and charge as one.
This has worked out OK for me for past 12 months or so.
Good luck with your set-up.
Regards,
Hugh
AnswerID:
97106
Reply By: drivesafe - Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 15:48
Monday, Feb 07, 2005 at 15:48
dave, before you make comments about how much someone else knows or doesn't know, I think you had better go and have a read of Standards Australian.
Paul asked a question relating to automotive voltages while you rant on about low voltage.
Low voltage relates to AC voltages between 100 volts and 1,000 volts or DC between 120 volts and 1,500 volts
Automotive voltages fall into the category of Extra Low Voltage.
Paul, one more thing, if you are going to be buying cable, make sure it is Automotive cable. It was mentioned earlier in this posting that someone was using AC cable. Thats OK for them but Domestic AC Mains cable has a lower flash point ( can ignite at a lower temperature ) that automotive cable plus AC mains cable is usually made from thicker, but less copper strands, while Automotive cable is made up using more but thinner strand. The reason for the thinner strands is to make the automotive cable more flexible so that it won’t go brittle and break caused fatigue.
Cheers
AnswerID:
97107