Long travel shocks for Rodeo plus other questions.

Submitted: Monday, Sep 23, 2002 at 00:00
ThreadID: 2034 Views:3270 Replies:3 FollowUps:2
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Hi All,
I still haven't take the plunge and bought new suspension yet but decided to experiment a little first!
I had been told that you could only get 25mm lift in the front. After installing a steel bull bar recently I reckon I lost 15+mm so I wanted to claim that back. I started to wind the torsion bars up and found I could get like 50+mm and still have a few mm before the hitting upper bump stop.
Questions.
1/ What long travel shocks (ie to use at 50mm lift) are there for 2000 model Rodeos?
2/ The upper bump stops could be made thinner for greater downward travel helping in articulation. Any cons for doing this?
3/Anybody had problems with CV joints as a result of lifting the front as they will run on a greater angle and also wear cv boots?
4/Lucky last wheel alignments, anybody know what height I can raise the front before it gets to the point where you can't align the front end?

Just for all you Rodeo owners interest I wound the front so there was 790mm measuring through the hub beteen the ground the front guard. I went off roading with friends to a familiar area and found I got though rutted areas so much more easily the eatra clearance was amazing! It made so much diffence. But I fink I heard the shockers 'top' so hence the reason for longer travel ones (I will go out later and jack up the front to see where the shockers stop extending)

Thanks in advance.....Leroy
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Reply By: nico - Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00

Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00
Leroy ... I have also have noticed a considerable drop in the front on my rodeo after fitting a steel bullbar and travelling outback..........
can you tell me how to wind up the torsion bars at the front i really just want to level my car again now and maybe later on lift it a bit

thanks

nico
AnswerID: 6855

Follow Up By: Leroy - Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00

Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00
Hi Nico,

It's quite simple to adjust your torsion bars. Have a look underneath and you will see the torsion bars come back to a bracket on the chasis. There is a bolt on the bracket and if you look on the other side you will see a long thread. Turn the bolt clockwise to raise the front. Measure the front guard before you begin so you have a reference. I would also consider getting a wheel alignment as well as the camber might need adjusting.

Leroy
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FollowupID: 3090

Reply By: mudgutz - Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00

Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00
dont know much about isuzu but if you can lift it 50mm with the torsion bars i would suggest putting on shocks that are meant for a two inch lift
with the independant front end on your isuzu and most popular 4wds there are castor adjustment blocks available to correct the allignment problem which occurs .....i know that they are available for toyota and nissan and mitsu so why not the isuzu. i would also suggest longer springs as with winding up the torsion bars you are stretching the springs from the vehicles standard ride height by not changing the springs your torsoin bars will clag out real quick yes you will put extra pressure on the cv's but the effect is only small its when you do big lifts 4'' or so problems really occur due to cvs exceeding maximum angle of deflection during bottoming remember the cv travells throught that 2 inch lifted posi under compression anyway......consult a suspension specialist as most of them into 4wding gear are only too happy to give you the benefit of there experience.....
AnswerID: 6872

Follow Up By: Leroy - Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00

Tuesday, Sep 24, 2002 at 00:00
Hey Mudgutz,

I have asked retailers about their shocks and travel and they really don't seem to know. Most stick to the 25mm lift is ok line! One company has said I should be able to get 50mm at least.
I agree with replacing the torsion bars but I thought I might try this first before I replace them.
I had a chat to a CV joint place and they have seen a number of rodeo's with 50mmish lifts and felt the driveshaft angles were fine. Also they mentioned that the front driveshafts don't get used on a daily basis on flat roads (like a normal front wheel drive). If it was a front wheel drive on the bitumen with this angle he felt it might present a few probs down the track but he also said that a 4wd is generally being use on an undulating surface and therefor the cv joint isn't always spinning in the same line. But he did say CV boots may need to be replaced a bit more regulary but that's also the chance when you go off road anyway. A stick may go through one of my boots as happened the other day so I changed it last weekend!!

The only real prob I can see is a wheel alignment. I will have to find the point where I can get the most height and still have a correct wheel alignment. But as you mention, there maybe a camber kit available. I will research this tomorrow.
Thanks,
Leroy
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FollowupID: 3091

Reply By: ray91 - Wednesday, Sep 25, 2002 at 00:00

Wednesday, Sep 25, 2002 at 00:00
Leroy I can see no point in fitting longer shocks to the front suspension.The suspension will only move between the upper and lower bump stops regardless of were you wind the torsion bars, up or down,new or old bars.The suspension works best set in the middle (same travel up as down).Cutting the bump stops will give you more articulation but the CV joints wont like it. Ray
AnswerID: 6932

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