Recommendations on which Troopy?

Rowen,
It would be a plus if you could pick up a troopy with the new suspension(front coil springs &lengthened leaf springs) but Idoubt if you could find one for 20k as I think they came out in2000 and would sell nearer the 30k mark.Whatever you decide stay away from the petrol models as they are much too expensive to run.Also remember that the cheeper high mileage ex rental high top campershave a very limited market and are much harder to sell.My advice is to stick with a standard diesel and try to stretch your budget to 2000+

Obviously you would want the 1HZ motor, 1990 onwards, rather than the 2H. The newer model, 1999 on (I think), also comes with the option of a turbo diesel, diff locks and dual fuel tanks, but they are expensive.

Don't let skinny rims & tyres put you off.

The only complaint heard regularly is the seats.

hzj troopy mid to late 90s is they go for that budget, cant stress enough avoid the ex miners below is a cut and paste from a previos reply of mine
engines are good but can crack heads if overheated. always pays to get them up to operating temp and remove the radiator cap (carefully ) and look for bubbles. get it up to highway speed then take tour foot of the load pedal and let it coast down to 40kph - make sure it doesnt jump out of fith. Look for overdone detailing it could be covering up an EX MINER. poke your fingers in the chassis holes and see if the chasis is full of mud. taste the mud/dust if it tastes salty it is a MINER. prob will use around 13l per100k where a petrol will use around 5l per100k more - do the math (if you can find one) I have just bought an 80 with 200k and it goes just fine. Other thing is just drive it no 2 1hz seem to go the same make sure this one has plenty of go (for a 1hz anyway) Turboeing a 1hz is not recomended as they are not built for it (toyota make significant mods to their turbo motors they are not just the same motor with a turbo attached). Give it a flat out run - anything above 1/2 on the temp gauge spells a problem somewhere. Get the brakes checked they can be chewed out if run in muddy conditions and are often are an unEXpected cost at 1st sevice (if they need work it is a good tool to bargain the price down). After the flat out run leave it idling for 5 min then crawl under liooking for leaks that were steam cleaned (transfer case is a good place to look as are diffs). Take it onto dirt make sure it engages low range easily then do 2 circles on full lock each way listen for the cv joints clicking and any other untoward noises. Check accesories (where fitted work) check springs and hangers for cracks. check shockers after your drive making sure they dont leak (further testing is hard on leaf sprung vehicles) jack up front wheels one at a time checking for play in steering/bearings. check behind the wheels the "ball" the wheel ataches to should be dry or just a light film of grease leaking oil from here is EXpensive.
I have driven plenty of utes of this vintage (same driveline etc) they are very tough and reliable but can break in the suspension/brakes front end areas when used for mining rest is rock solid even when used for mining
I have driven

Davoe,
Your "test" procedure is probably something us existing owners should be doing from time to time as we get in bad habits thinking that the vehicle will run forever with no wear and tear.Even a Toyota needs a little attention!
Your post I am sure will be a help to others, as some of us have limited mechanical knowledge.

the sub tank is was an option on all 75 series but i thik it became standard on the 78/79 series in 1999. i have a 94 troopy for sale selling a bit below the fifteen mark, not really in your price range but let me know if your interested.sam_84h@hotmail.com