Chainsaw sharpening query

I'll be honest with you Moose. I am an idiot.

I'm no good at tonnes of things but I tell you ... I can sharpen my saw.

I 'cheat' though. I have an automatic 12 V sharpening tool. It cost me about 50 bucks.

It is like a spinning pencil like grinding tool. Hard to explain.

I bought it from a mower shop in Melb. I suppose you can get them anywhere. I can sharpen the whole chain in about 10 mins.

The biggest drawback is that you have to be mindfull that you only need to 'sharpen' the chain, not grind it away.

Good luck.

iMusty.

Hello Moose,
What it usually means is the bar edge isn't square, thus the chaoin runs at an angle.
Take it to your local chainsaw place and they'll square the edge of the bar off for you. Worst case, the bar is worn to far to grind back square.

Hope this helps,
Geoff.

Moose

It will be the bar most likely.

You can pull it off and turn it upside down and refit, unless its been done before the top of the bar will be in a lot better shape than the bottom and so you will be right to go again

Like Hullo....
Isn't this the exploroz site???
Why don't ya ask the Chainsaw site??

Signman,

You'd be surprised how many friendly and helpful people you might find if you take the time to ask and be nice!

Moose

It could be either the chain or the bar, if you only have basic tools it will most likely be the chain. When ever mine starts to veer I take my chain down to the chainsaw shop and pay $15 to get it sharpened properly. I then get approx 6 sharpens with a 12v handheld sharpener before it starts again.

I have also had it ocur because of a bent bar. Best course of action get it sharpened by a shop and then see what the result is.

Moose, most of the advice as to the bar and chain are pretty right but, for a change I can see the light with iMusty and get a little grinder. if you get the sharpening right and give it a quick grind every fuel fill you will find there is less pressure applied to the bar and less ultimate wear of tha bar. It only takes 5 minutes of your time to top it off for faster cutting. Hell, is it foolproof? NO

If the chain cuts and tosses out big bits of sawdust, it is more likely the bar. This can be dressed up by putting it in a vice and draw fileing it till it's square again, it will take a while unless you have a new file or a linishering machine.

The bar should be touched up after every use, that way it will last a lot longer. A 20" bar for my O28 is up near $90 and I would wear out one a year and I have two saws both with 20" bars.

Hi all,
I know I am going against the grain but if you sharpen the saw manually this can happen as we are either LH or Rhanded and tend to sharpen the favoured side more. Look at the Cutters and see if they are even if not then this could be your trouble.
Just my tuppence from using the things for many years.
Not to say it is not a warn bar as this can effect the cut also.

Hi Moose, can't help you with the chain saw problem but seeing your post jogged my memory about another topic you previously posted. Toyota clutch shudder.
If I remember correctly the last I recall you were about to do battle with Toyota to get a solution. How did you go ? Check one of the following
1. Fixed to your satisfaction
2. Still battling
3. Living with it
4. Sworn to secrecy
I'm about to embark on the same journey and any feedback would be appreciated
Regards
Chris

If your saw is cutting to the left then sharpen JUST the right chippers. It just means that one side is cutting better than the other. Watch your angles and your depth of cut on each tooth.

The electric sharpeners are good but I now use a simple holder that holds the file at the correct depth so all you have to watch is your 25 or 35 Degree angle whic is amrked on the guide. Any chainsaw shop wil have the holder About $15.00 plus the file.

Sharpen your saw at EVERY refill especially if you are cuting firewood

Dunedigger

Hi Moose
Don't forget to check your rakers as well after a few sharpens as that will have a huge impact on the cutting ability even with a sharp chain.
You can buy a raker gauge for a couple of dollars and just file top of rakers with a flat file.
The guys are right about different length teeth causing cut to angle off
Cheers Poppy (ex sleeper cutter)

Hi moose,

I'm with most of the other answers - (the swing to the right usually means you've sharpened 1 side more than the other) - try counting your sharpening strokes - 3 per tooth is usually enough to sharpen a dull chain - more if corrections are needed.

Here are a few hints based on many years of carting and use of chainsaws - get a leather bit roll - in it keep -

1. chainsaw screwdriver/plug wrench combo,
2. Chainsaw file (in file guide) (with a handle for the file + spare handle for file),
3.spare (box of) sharpening files - use a new file often, after 2-3 sharpenings - they will do more, but a sharp file cuts better,
4.flat bladed screwdriver (for adjusting chain tension - I find it more convenient than the combo supplied with the saw),
5.small flat double bastard file (for rakers), (also use to dress bar),
6.raker gauge,
and most useful accessory,
7.a spiked clamp (Oregon brand I think) which you can use to hold bar steady while sharpening - just spike clamp into stump, log etc., and then clamp bar(for this you will have to split the stiching between two of the pockets on the bit roll)
8. If you have a sprocket tipped bar your mini grease gun will fit too.

This will provide you with a compact (when rolled) clean storage for all the chainsaw gear you'll likely need, which is also readily carried to where it'll be of most use.

Stuff which is most hard on teeth is charcoal (stone, wire, dirt etc., - all of which you'll probably end up cutting at some stage) - sharpen teeth after cutting anything like this.

If you see score marks on top of the teeth - sharpen them until all scoring has been removed.

Make sure teeth on both sides of chain are equal length.(and have same angles)

If the bar has burrs (along chain groove) - place on flat surface and remove burr with bastard file (both sides) of bar.

Use the depth/raker gauge to clean bar - removing fine sawdust/oil paste which clogs bar (after every tank or two of fuel).

I worked in the bush for many years, and this system ensured that my saws worked when required.

Another factor to consider, if you will be cutting lots of rough stuff (charcoal, dirt etc.,) is the use of a tungsten tipped chain (+ diamond file) about $300 dollars, from memory, but reduces sharpening required, gives long life to chain.

Hope this helps

Sounds like you only have one bar and one chain?... Go into your dealer and get them to have a look. They should know what's going on straight away. Get a few chains and have several sharpened when you go out. I'm betting on the bar.... but then I have never experienced your problem UNLESS.... hang on.... you have tightened the chain sufficiently haven't you?... It just occured to me that it does happen if your chain is sloppy. It should be tight enough so that when you lift it with pinched fingers the guide teeth lift about half way out of the bar guide.

BTW... just the sort of question for this forum.

Moose Just another little hint (from a bloke with 6 saws!) File AWAY from the cutters, ie, toward the bar tip. This means that you have to sharpen from both sides of the bar. I use a 12v. sharpener and reverse the direction of rotation (reverse the batt. clips) to sharpen each side. This means the stone always rotates towards the bar tip which keeps the sharpening even. Years ago, before the eyes dimmed and the shakes set in I used a 4" angle grinder. Mind you that was on a saw with half inch pitch chain!
the kesh

Just a quick thankyou to all (bar one). Some fantastic tips in those responses. I'm sure many others have gained valuable information on looking after their saws. Just shows what a great forum we have with a huge wealth of knowledge just waiting for the appropriate question. Now if only we could get rid of the moron element!