electronic rust prevention

Snake oil and Hiclone sauce.

DaryLive.
There are plenty of people who have tried and learnt the hard way that this is a con job. The best way to reduce rust is to wash your vehicle with clean water, not detergent and clean out the drain holes in the sills and doors. Eric.

Darylive,
You would be much better off with a chemical rust proof, The electronic ones are just plain useless.

Electronic rustproofing have been banned in America, I wonder why???

Regards
japmel

I got talked in to one on my 96 Falcon wagon and so far it hasn't rusted... Never had one on my 85 Rocky, which is still kicking around, did plenty of beach work in it but washed thoroughly with clean water after every trip and to this day, no rust...

I guess I'm trying to say, "I have a deer with no eye's"

Mate, I'm a pretty gullible bloke by all accounts and have fitted my GU with a CounterAct system. I fitted it myself, so if (or maybe that should be "when") it starts to rust the company will probably tell me to POQ.

How gullible am I??

I also have a ShuRoo and a De-Bug unit in my fuel lines.

My GU is 4.5 years old. I have no rust yet (and wouldn't expect to have any in any case), I've never hit a Roo and have never suffered from any contaminated fuel. Now, am I just lucky, or are all these con jobs doing what they promise? I'm stuffed if I know, but now that I have them, I'll keep them. Please note however that the HiClone con job has not found it's way into my wallet or credit card (yet)..hahaha

Cheers

Roachie

G'day Darylive

Snake oil or not - I decided to spend the $600. on the ERPS system as I considered this cheap extra insurance against RUST on a $70k 4WD.

I also has the bitumen type stuff sprayed under!

The testimonials from the likes of Surf Clubs, Pro Fisherman, Seaside Councils and Minning companies seem to speak for themselves.

I live in Noosa and are often up the beach to Rainbow & Fraser and thought it was worth the expense.

The installers in Noosa explained that early on they even thought it was a CON but have seen to may examples of the units doing as they say.

Its only money !!!

G'Day Darylive,
I agree with you on the use of sacrificial adones, that's exactly how they work. I'm not a big believer in most forms of electronic protection, and I'll give you an example. I work in the commericial property management/maintanance field with trade skills as a sparky and fridgy. I recently inherited the responicibility of another commerical building which is only particialy occupied and in the throws of being referbished. I recently had the 360t chiller pulled down for inspection and for a tube clean. I found that the steel end plates of the vessel were showing advanced signs corrosion. After further investigation I found that the system had a very expensive, industry approved, form of ERPS installed. This system was found to be well serviced and fully functional. It also had a fully automatic chemical water treatment system in place. It to was found to be well serviced with all inspection reports showing no previous signs of contamination or corrosion concerns. So what had caused the signs of corrosion? ..... the plastic feed pipe from the chemical dosing system had split, effectively ceasing the chemical treatment for a little over a month, from last service. My point ( finally you say ) ... without an opperating, diligently maintained, effect chemical water treatment system, corrosion occurred regardless of a very expensive, maintained ERPS in place.
IMHO
Regards,
Bazza.

All I can add is that the Capacitive Coupling unit is what you want, stay away from the sacrifical anode (like others have said).

I believe CounterACT and ERPS are the only mobs who make a capacitive coupling unit.

As to the debate as to if the whole thing is snake oil who knows. My Hilux with ERPS has a very shiny bullbar, so thats a plus. Compared to the last truck with bitumin rust proofing which had a very dull coloured bullbar!

Cheers,

Glenn.

I've had the ERPS system on my vehicle for about 6 years and have made frequent and regular visits to Fraser, Double Is Pt, Bribie Is etc.
I can't prove that it works but my vehicle remains free of rust.
I've been doing the beach thing in various vehicles for nearly 25 years and have seen the results of salt and sand on all of my vehicles except for this one .... the only one I've had with electronic protection and only minimal chemical protection.
There are a few different type of electronic systems and some of them do nothing much to stop rust.
Some may say that I am naive but I would fit the same one to my next vehicle.
That's my experience .... so argue away guys.
Cheers
Oskar

Gday Darylive,

I also have an ERPS, same as counteract. I have six pads on the vehilce, 2 on the chassis and 4 on the body.

Had the same setup on GQ as well. Frequent trips to the beach and no problems at all. My cruiser I had previous to that rusted out big time and had no ERPS.

Soooo, I feel pretty good on recommending the ERPS.

Sacrificial crap that you see in the trading post for $99 has been known to make rust worse (because it doesn't work).

Cheers

Chris.

ERPS should be cheap for car makers to use, so why don't they do it?? Cheaper than the zinc and extra paint.

Maybe they have yet to be convinced.

A few years ago I checked with the RACQ in Queensland, and the guy I spoke to said that they had never done a test on the system.
However, he said the NRMA had done so and found that 2 pieces of steel immersed in salt water , one with nothing and the other with the "rust preventer" both rusted when removed.
I had mu L/C rustproofed 7 years ago and after each trip to Fraser had it washed down (hoist) by the people who did the rustproofing and for a reasonable figure they touched up any rustproofing that had been removed.
Only rust is a bit on the surface .
However, at one stage I needed a new radiator because I had overlooked ever
washing it down.

The radiator people said the best way to look after them was to gently hose the bottom of the radiator on both sides , with a hose without a spray attachment, after each beach trip.

Pedro

Darylive
Just a quick one that may help.
The info which comes with the Erps system says that the best way to keep your panels free of rust is to polish them regularly as the paint is actually slightly porous.
The film of polish seals the surface and stops moisture penetration which is one of the biggest causes for rust (in body panels).
This doesn't help with the underbody and all the "nooks and crannies" etc of course.

Despite my recommendation of the electronic system above, as a minimum, I would use a good chemical protection and a thorough flushing of the the underbody area after beach or mud work.
Oskar

Well I'll tell ya,

The old GQ has the full enrust treatment and is regularly washed especially after regular trips upto double island point. Put through the under body wash etc. and often parked over the sprinkler.

The only rust is a small spot near the windscreen which is not bad for a 16yr old truck. The thing is they are the best 4by ever made so I want to keep it forever and once you get a little rust it becomes scarey.

I have been trying to establish the difference between the various electric jiggers on the market.

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Daryl