GU thermostat

Thanks mate,
I know it'll take longer to heat up, but looking at Andrew's response, he probably has a point as well....
Cheers

Roachie

Thanks Andrew, I never thought of the second issue you mention, however having fitted an expensive radiator with double the capacity of the original unit, I'd like to think it could cope with the coolant travelling though at an increased speed. Would probably only remove the thermostat during the summer months.
Cheers mate
Roachie

Not a good idea for total removal. What a radiator specialist recommended for me to try was to pull the middle of the thermostat out, that way it restricts the water flow to a degree. It worked a treat on the old hilux.

Thanks Bradley, I've decided not to remove the thermo, but have ordered a new one which should be here by friday, so I can fit it on the weekend.
I've just found out from another question I asked today about thread sizes, that there is a convenient way for me to bleed air from the system in future.
Cheers
Roachie

G'day Hanson,

I got a big shiny aluminium jobbie from PWR in Qld...cost...$1,100-.

It's a well engineered unit. Has the threaded holes in the bottom for the 2 switches that control the air con shut-off and the turn-on of the air-con fan only. I have disconnected the 1st mentioned item (there's an electrical plug you can just unplug) on the passenger's side which means that I can now decide if/when the air con gets switched off.

The only 3 problems I had with it have been:
1) When I installed it I couldn't re-install the plastic shroud. That is because the radiator sits back about another inch or so closer to the motor and the shroud is difficult/impossible to get back in. However, without it you run the risk of losing a few fingers, cos the fan is fully exposed....so I cut the shroud off about 4" from the top and just installed the top bit. I know that this probably means the original fan isn't working as efficiently as it should, but don't forget there are 2 electric fans (the air cond one and another one I put in myself) that blow air through from the front as well).

2) On a trip to Cape York last September/October I was losing coolant. I tracked down that the small pipe which exits the radiator at the top (below the cap) was narrower than the original. This meant the coolant was travelling to the expansion tank when the radiator got hot, but as it cooled down the coolant was not being sucked back into the radiator because there was not a proper seal at the junction below the radiator cap....it just sucked air in.

3) also on the Cape York trip, the bottom tank suffered 2 fractures where the 2 reatining lugs went through their respective body mounts. I think this was a product of the severe corrogations. I managed to get that re-welded at Seisa.

I thought the bigger radiator would have cured my over-warming problems; but no it hasn't.

Cheers

Roachie

Hi Roachie,
I just spent $800 getting the standard alloy core replaced with a copper one that has more cores spaced closer together. I reckon it might be a bit more efficient than the std one but the pwr would have to be better again. I also had the injector pump timing done and the fuel cut back a bit with the aid of a pyro and I think this had more effect on over warming issue than radiator. If its not the bottom hose it must be a tuning issue? Have you got the 3" exhaust and dump pipe? Don't know if that helps engine temps but it sure helps them go better.

Yep Warthog,
Have got the 3" exhaust and special (bigger) dump pipe too....it goes better than when it had the standard exhaust.

Cheers

Roachie

G'day Boo,
I spent 3 years in Cooma from 1998 to 2001...interested to know who your family are there....if they were still there during those years I might know them?

I've been thinking that the full removal of the thermostat shouldn't cause any problems, but your comment about "choke" doesn't apply as mine is a diesel.

Thanks for your response.

Cheers

Roachie

Good to hear from a semi-local....
Send us a mail and I'll get back to you.
jamieson@teknet.net.au

Boo

Thanks for your input mate....I'm gunna go with the concensus and keep a thermo in there....I've ordered a new one as the one there now is the original.
Cheers
Roachie

Thanks for your words of wisdom Stew...believe me mate, I am trying to get to bloody bottom of this matter.
Cheers
Roachie

I know you're right mate, about the timing and fuel delivery needing to be spot on. I was concerned about that, so I fitted the EGT gauge to measure exhaust gas temps.....normal. I am told that if it was over-fueling, the EGT's would be up pretty high. So I'm back to the cooling system itself.
I'll get it worked out if it's the last thing I ever do!!!
Cheers mate
Roachie

Thanks Hugh, but with mine being a 4.2 (old banger technology, so no EMS computers etc), I'm not sure the fuel delivery would be affected by the coolant temp etc....but as somebody else said, if it's running too cold it could have an effect on the glow plugs.
I'm gunna leave the thermostat (a new one will be bought) in and persevere some more.
Cheers
Roachie

Thanks Camper.....your advice will be heeded.....
Hope to cya up this way some time (Yorke Peninsula; Kadina).
Cheers mate
Roachie

Thanks GT.....thermostat will be renewed and kept on board; but I haven't previously heard of this by-pass and foot-valve etc. Strewth, something else to worry about......lolol
Cheers
Roachie

Okay Michael; that does it!!!!! I can handle anything else......but not a cold shower. If the heat exchanger doesn't function properly SWMBO won't want to go camping anymore and I may as well sell the whole damn lot.....guess what?? the thermostat is gunna be renewed and I'm gunna see if I can get a new bottom hose fabricated using some of the original bends and whack in a piece of stainless pipe in between.
Cheers
Roachie