Towing Constant 4x4

Hi Friar

If it is a auto anything over 50k’s you have to disconnect the front and rear tail/drive shaft’s. In a manual just put it in neutral and should be fine (not sure about constant 4*4 though). Also if you r talking serious distance then I would use a car trailer as when you get your speed up over 60kp/h it gets a bit dangerous with braking and cornering etc.

Or is it behind a bus on a pole type set up?

Friar,
From memory in my book that comes with the LC100 auto, FULL LIFT, i.e. put it on a trailer.

RB

Hi there Friar,

As a tow truck operator of 12 years experience, I strongly suggest that if it is an auto, you remove the front & rear driveshafts or select "Neutral" on the transfer case where available if towing more than a couple of km, and that is assuming it has been recently run and the box is warm and wet with trans fluid.
If it has not been run for more than 1 day, or if distance to be towed is more than say 5km I would remove the shafts or select "Neutral" on trans case or have it towed with an all up lift (tilt tray, car trailer etc no wheels on ground). Note that unless you are flat towing it with all 4 wheels on the ground, you MUST remove both front & rear shafts where one axle is lifted off the ground on a cradle type lift and the othe axle remains on the ground. You will not be able to tow it with one axle off thr ground unless both shafts are removed.

Wear on the gearbox clutch packs will result if you don't heed this advice, and a full rebuild will be imminent ie:lots of $$

This does not apply to a manual (except the bit about towing with one axle lifted, you must still remove both F & R shafts in that case), however be aware that if the reason for the tow is gearbox, transfer case, you risk having the wheels lock up while towing if the shaft to any axle that is on the road is not removed. A lock up can also occur if the problem is diff related, and there is nothing you can do about that unless you tow it with an all up lift (again no wheels on the road during towing)

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU DO THE FOLLOWING:
1) Tow it backwards more than a few hundred metres if auto unless you remove both F & R shafts.
2) Attempt to tow it with one axle lifted on a cradle type lift unless both F&R shafts are removed.

Sorry for the long winded explanation, but I have seen many a foolish tow truck drive pay lots of $$ for incorrectly towing autos and constant 4wd's.

Cheers,
Wayne

friar you could also check post 20153 which discussed the issue in regard to one particular brand. Finding neutral seems to be the best way to go if any regularity is required for the towing.