Recovery Points on a 2005 Troopie

in short no worries for either end - their will be those that will moan not rated etc etc but the bottom line is i have used the front tie down points and rear tow bar bar for recovery of the camper you see in the rig pics which would put far more strain on than your troopy so to those that say theyare not up to it I say bah humbug

Like Davo I use the two front supposedly tie-down points when I really have too, I utilise both with a bridle. I've looked at the front, long and hard for a possible alternative method of attaching a connection to the chassis. I someone can come up with front recovery points that attach to the chassis on both sides of the 75 etc series, then I reckon they'll make a squwillion quid.

I agree with Davoe as I have a 2001 Troopy and have used the so called tie down points for recovery with no problems.Ithink you will find that these points on the Troopy are far more substantial than most of the others I have seen on other vehicles.

The rear hitch is fine. Just use the pin. Thats what we universally teach in our state.

The front has 4 possible points - two are tie downs (just a hole in the steel section), two are the wire towing points.

The wire tow points that are visible from the front are OK for snatching and like Rod, I use a bridle to add an additional degree of safety. Those points are secured with 3 high tensile bolts, the leading bolt actually passing through the flattened end of the wire. It is heaps stronger than the wire tow points you'll see on other LandCruisers.

Cheers
Phil

Thanks for all your positive comments. It looks as though I dont have too much of a problem.

Rod W and Phil G, you both mention using a "bridle" to use both front recovery points. What do you use as the bridle, and how do you attatch it to the extension /snatch strap?

Thanks again.

hayman Reese do not endorse the use of its hitch for recovery & if you do decide to use this point for recovery not only are you liable for damage to any person or vehicle if somebody is killed you could be held on manslaughter charges.

the safe method is to have proper recovery points fitted front & rear
the life it save may be yours or your family's

Turbo,

Just to answer your question above about what does constitute a "proper recovery point"?

Off the top of my head:
#1 It needs to have a load rating stamped on it - pretty much the only ones with this are the hooks with 10,000lbs stamped on the side. But some others are becoming available for problem vehicles like the 100 and 120 series LandCruisers.
#2 The recovery point needs to be mounted directly to the chassis. Attaching hooks to ancillary items like bullbars is often not acceptable because the direction of pull may no longer be straight line to the chassis, the bullbar may not be strong enough and is not designed to take forces in a forward direction (particularly these days with airbag compliance issues).
#3 The bolts which attach it to the chassis need to be high tensile (usually 8.8 or greater) and of sufficient size (usually need two 12mm bolts for the rated hooks)
#4 It should ideally be a hook because you can attach a strap or towrope without needing a shackle.
#5 It should distribute the force to both sides of the chassis

OK, it is very difficult to have the ideal recovery points on any vehicle because of vehicle design issues. Experience over time has shown that the square hitch manufactured towbars are often the best option for a rear recovery point because they are sufficiently strong, distribute the force to both sides of the chassis, are attached to the chassis with usually 8 high tensile bolts, and a strap can be attached without a shackle. A rated hook bolted to the chassis may not be acceptable if it only goes thru the 3mm thick steel (will rip out). The bottom of the chassis rails is usually doubled over, so is the best place for a rated hook to be mounted.

For the front, every vehicle is different. Most have merely tie-down points. Let me reassure you that your 2005 troopie has the strongest loops you'll find on a 4wd for reasons I mentioned above. Downside is that they require a rated shackle.

We now teach the use of a bridle (also called equalisation strap) as the first choice for attaching a snatch strap to a vehicle. A bridle will halve the load on each of the two front recovery points, distribute the force to both sides of the chassis, and should a recovery point break, a "missile" will most likely be retained by the opposite point.

Cheers
Phil
2002 HDJ79R