washing down engine
Submitted: Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 10:37
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SJF
Ok just back from fraser island.
Great time excellent place, washed underneath car at
rainbow beach and have further washed car in traditional manner. BUT underneath bonnet there is lots of sand,mud etc, on top of battery around powersteering etc. Whats the best way to clean and not watelog or ruin electrics? Any tips or cautions?
Thanks
Reply By: MrBitchi - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 10:52
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 10:52
What I do is to cover the Alternator with a plastic bag then wash the engine bay with a degreaser.
Don't use a high pressure hose (Karcher etc), garden hose works fine.
Dont spray directly onto fuse boxes etc.
Don't spray the degreaser directly on fan belts.
When you're finished and its dried off, give the whole engine and bay a spray with WD40 and it will look like new. Also prevents any alloy components from corroding.
Cheers,
John.
AnswerID:
108404
Follow Up By: Grumblebum and Dragon (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 12:36
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 12:36
Thanks
John - Good tip
John
FollowupID:
365159
Reply By: Member - Mozza (NSW) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 12:54
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 12:54
i use a a bit of CT-18 ?? truckwash degreaser in a 'pressure' spray bottle (diluted with water obviously) .. leave it on 2 mins.... spray off with hose... repeat again... and engine bay comes up schmick..
AnswerID:
108417
Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 14:12
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 14:12
CT-18 was also recomended to me by a mate who works for CAT rebuilding Kenworth engines.
I normally spray degresser out of pressure bottle, then blast off. Then go around and balistol or CRC all electronics/sensors etc.
FollowupID:
365168
Follow Up By: viz - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 20:04
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 20:04
Be careful with CT-18 - not so hot on aluminium parts - especially if left for some time. Will dull Al and also paint. I stopped using it years ago...
/viz
FollowupID:
365213
Follow Up By: Member - Blue (VIC) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 21:21
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 21:21
Hi guy's,
Viz, I think they have altered the CT-18 Formula. Many blokes who used to use it years ago have told me how it dulls ali parts. I can leave it all over my trailbike for up to a couple of days with no ill affects... Rims and swing arm still shine as does the engine.
Blue
FollowupID:
365240
Follow Up By: Redback - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 07:43
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 07:43
Yep gotta agree with Blue here it has been changed now, new formula, i use it on my dirtbike and Landy and it's fine the engine bay comes up shiny as with CT-18.
Baz.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: viz - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 11:41
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 11:41
Well - I might have to give it a try again. Thanks for that! :)
/viz
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365306
Reply By: Member - Ross H (QLD) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 14:28
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 14:28
SJF
I used to do the same with WD40 or CRC but be aware over time they will harden an crack the coating on some electrical wires. Found this happening in both the automotive and marine industry.We found lanotec was a good replacementas it also leave a thick protective coating.
rgards
Ross
AnswerID:
108424
Reply By: Member - Davoe (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 15:18
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 15:18
wash the engine bay out after every shift just hose it all out a good run afterwards will dry out any sensative bits
AnswerID:
108430
Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 18:26
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 18:26
I find it's a good idea to spray with Ballistol or CRC or some other kind of corrsion inhibiter as the contacts on a lot of the sensors build up a white aliminium type corrsion otherwise. Can play havock with your ECU if not attended to.
FollowupID:
365197
Reply By: Member - Brian (Gold Coast) - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 18:52
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 18:52
SJF
I agree it was a great weekend! The party on Sunday night was good as
well!!
As
well as ALL of the above we also run the truck up on diagonal wheel ramps... one under right front and one under rear left to raise the
suspension upo and give you some room. Then get under with a hose and wash everything.... the top of your fuel tank/s, diffs gearbox etc.... anywhere that salt/sand can accumulate. When the truck is finished we run the tralier up on the ramps and do the same... It's worth the effort!
AnswerID:
108450
Reply By: viz - Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 20:10
Wednesday, Apr 27, 2005 at 20:10
OK - this may put a dampner on things: where did you wash your car? At a public carwash? From memory there was a place at
Rainbow Beach that also added a soluble oil in the water to "protect" the car from salt. Trouble is, the water is recycled and if not filtered (this may have changed - I have not used that service iin years) will be full of salt. And guess where that salt goes...
Not real keen on public car washes that recycle water - unless I know that the water is treated against salt contamination.
/viz
AnswerID:
108463
Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (WA) - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 00:47
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 00:47
I have used a few car washes that recycle water on mine sites. the best ones have 2 settling ponds and an oil scraper but one thing they cant do is get rid of salt making a pretty crappy carwash as the mud underneath the vehicles is hypersaline (so salty it burns your skin)
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Bob of KAOS - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 07:30
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 07:30
Salt is not a problem where I live, so the best option for me is the engine and wheel degreaser at Car Lovers. I gave the engine bay a go with the degreaser, and then the high pressure soap, followed by the rinse. It did an excellent job, and cost all of $2. The 1992 BMW engine bay looked like new and have not had electrical issues. A Jap vehicle may not be as resistant to such treatment ;-)
AnswerID:
108532