^0 series with 1hz turbo still overheating

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 23:20
ThreadID: 22469 Views:4048 Replies:6 FollowUps:5
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Hello to all, well since last time I was on this forum I have tryed a lot of different things to fix my over heating problem removed new thermostat but it still gets hot under load and up hills I have made scoops to direct the air flow better into the grill erea I had West end deisel check the fuel sysem & correct the injector pump timing they have done my injector pump up & fitted a boost compinsater to it,when the cruiser went on the dyno I had 84.7kw at the wheels & 513nm @4000RPM but they said it was running very lean up top, since there mods it now has 99kws @ the wheels and 560nm @ 3200RPMS and you can really feel a big improvement all round BUT the B*#!#* thing still gets hot on the hills, its fine around town and just cruisin on the freeway but if you punch it along a bit she starts heading for the red I have been in touch with a guy called Norm (Aussie Desert Cooler Radiators) he said my 60 series Radiator will never cope with the 1hz with a turbo he suggests a 5 core triple flow he said its the biggest that will fit in without modifications my Radiator is a 4 core I have done the silicone oil in the cluch fan (2 tubes ) and even put a 16 inch Davis Craig thermo on instead of the clutch fan and with the clutch fan also infront of the radiator still no luck also had the compression checked and had the die guage on top of the radiator alls ok the only thing I havnt checked is the water pump I dont really want to pull the timing belt off again etc etc so I was hopeing the bigger radiator will solve my problem im just a liitle bit over this over heat problem (spent over $2500 trying to solve it and funds for this truck are running thin! any feed back would be appreciated thank you all Cheers Scott
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 23:30

Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 23:30
Have you put a proper Aftermarket temp gauge on to see if in fact it is overheating?
AnswerID: 108727

Follow Up By: scott666 - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 08:17

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 08:17
Gday Truckster(vic) yes I have fitted an after market temp guage and while normal driving the temp sits around 190 and goes up near the 220 mark on hills when the ambiant temp is approx 27 im sure if I was towing my camper van as I will be going to Darwin etc in mid july it is sure to give me some greif at West End Deisel they also used a infared non contact temp guage and they said that everything in the engine set up seemed to be fine they suggest I go back to the radiator as it was most likely to be the cause Thanks Truckster (vic)
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Reply By: ross - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 08:37

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 08:37
I believe you will need the thermostat to keep it cool or cooler.
The coolant needs to circulate properly.
If you remove the thermo the water pump is pumping coolant through every orifice insted of just back to the radiator.
The thermo also slows the coolant flow allowing it to cool a little longer.

If you dont have the fan shroud on, the fan will not draw sufficient air through the radiator.

You didnt mention the boost ,but I think 6 psi is all they will take.
They dont have oil cooled piston skirts like purpose built turbo diesels which means you cant use the turbo for too long
AnswerID: 108755

Reply By: Jarrod - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:09

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:09
G'day scott, maybe something to investigate is an aluminium radiator? pretty much all new cars have them these days, they are in fact 30% more efficient at cooling than the oldies. my 100 series std with aftermarket turbo has this what I reckon is a bleep y little 2 core aluminium thing, that i reckon is tiny compared to the old F100 radiator, but not a problem, even 40 C day, towing trailer uphill, full boost. 1/2 way up the gauge, that's it.

My mate used to run a little ford escort rally car, bored out it's little 2 litre, whacked on a turbo, went through all your drama's with overheating. last thing he did was an aluminium radiator of the same size - problem solved. think it cost him about $300 from memory.

Hope this gives you somerthing to think about. There are a few good sites on the net that talk about the advantages of aluminium radiators....

good luck,
Jarrod.
AnswerID: 108773

Follow Up By: scott666 - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 17:05

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 17:05
Thanks Jarrod I will look into the Aluminium radiators and see what I can find out thanks again cheers Scott
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FollowupID: 365558

Reply By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 19:45

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 19:45
Scott
It is a well known fact that the viscous fans on the 1hz cruisers loose their oil and dont "come on" on hills anymore till a $25 vile of oil is bought for them and it is installed.....try that
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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AnswerID: 108843

Follow Up By: scott666 - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 23:34

Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 23:34
Hi Andrew yep I know what you meen about the silicone oil I have put 2 tubes in and it hasnt solved the problem but thank you for your input you cant have to many good ideas cheers Scott
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FollowupID: 365634

Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 09:35

Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 09:35
Hi Scott
Sorry mate...jumped in with my xray vision without reading your post properly.
So, you have a 1hz with turbo in a 60 series, and it only gets hot when you need the power, or when you punch it.
You have checked everything i would have done, except one other possibility....the exhaust system. Its POSSIBLE, however highly improbable that a baffle has come loose in the muffler and is restricting exhaust exiting....This is only a possibility if the guys on the dyno thought it should be making more power....was it in the ballpark of whats expected from that combo???
Ive done a water pump b4 on these motors, and its not as easy as most....does the motor need a new timing belt soon??
Id suggest it isnt that anyway, they only leak or become noisy.The impellor is plastic, so it doesnt rot away.
Your radiator sounds like the most probable culpret, as it is the heat exchanger...you have addressed the heat being made, and the flow of air, so that leaves the surface area of the heat exchanger....was it cleaned out when the motor was fitted???
Also, if you want to speak to someone i know about this, he has a hdt in a 60, and might be able to suggest more...email me on limo4b@yahoo.com.au if you want his addy.
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Classifieds: Bt50/Ranger Speedy grande2 18x8 alloys (x4), Landcruiser 200 series/100 series 4 alloy rims with tyres and nuts GC

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Reply By: scott666 - Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 18:14

Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 18:14
Hi Andrew, mate I have a brand new 3inch exhaust and i have replaced the rod bearings and put a new timing belt on before i put the motor in the cruiser I now wish I had checked the water pump when the donk was out it would have been a lot easier then, I didnt know that the 1hz had a plastic impeller in the water pump so I guess that it would be unlikely to be corroded away i will ring Norm at Desert Radiators on Monday and ask about the aluminium radiators thanks for your feedback its much appreciated cheers scott.
AnswerID: 108960

Reply By: Timbobaroobob - Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 20:29

Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 20:29
Is your thermo running in the correct directiion, blades fitted correctly? plus you will need a shroud around the engine fan. is the engine bay really hot after driving? air needs to escape from inside there, you can adjust the rear of the bonnet up slightly to help the hot air to be removed
AnswerID: 108987

Follow Up By: scott666 - Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 20:41

Saturday, Apr 30, 2005 at 20:41
Hi Timbobaroobob yes I did have the thermo running the right way i also had it in front of the radiator and at the rear changing the blades to go in the right direction and aalso swapping the polarity to suit I have been running a shroud and yes it does get hot under the bonnet thats not a bad idea lifting the back of the bonnet just like the old days with heaps of chrome on the motors it seem to help back then thank you for your input cheers Scott.
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