Quality relay for driving lights

Smeetsy,

Hust my 5cents, but why run the duel throw and seperate breakers, i have found that the cheaper things do just as good a job as the more expensive items. If you are worried about reliability then with the cheap version you can by a couple of spares.

SantaAus

Hi Smeetsy,We have had our fair share of those little black relays over the years..Including name brands..All have long ago been tossed..We now only use the big relays in,usually a metal housing (water resistant) about 75mm sq..They last so long we even transfer them to new rigs.You,of course,only need very average wiring up to the point of the relay.Where you need the heavy cable is from Pos (+) battery term to relay,then relay to lite.No good having heavy power coming in if it can't go back to batt.So make sure the black or green earth return wire from the lite/lites is of equal duty..I realise you probably already know this,but it may help a newer four-wheeler get it rite first time..The little black relays are "cheaper" on the day you buy them but you pay the price further on,as,like most things,they only fail when you need them..One 'roo can equal several thousand $..(Hit a weaner,cow,Nissan Patrol,bullbar,cost $4,500 to insurance)

The one I use for my 240 Blitz lightforce units is a NEW ERA. It has provision for 2 separate switch inputs and 2 separate outputs. So, I have one Lightforce light off each output and have bridged the 2 switch lugs together and connected them to the dash switch. The NEW ERA has 2 separate fuses of the blade type which are accessible without having to take any cover/s off etc. You should be able to get them from any Repco/Autopro/ Supacheap etc. Sorry, don't know the part number.
Cheers
Roachie

Given that tradtional relays have moving parts that arc and spark to make contact - they are going to wear out or stuff up sooner than later in medium to high-draw applications.

Has anyone ever tried or contemplated using solid state relays?