Landcruiser 80 series and LPG

Submitted: Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:02
ThreadID: 23512 Views:5963 Replies:10 FollowUps:4
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Hi all,
Looking at buying a Landcruiser 80 series, 4.5l petrol auto. 1996 GXL model.
I do a lot of fishing, beach work and stuff, but not any real hard core offroad work (water, mud, etc).
I also use my car for work around the city, claim all the running costs on tax, etc.
Hence, I am looking at LPG conversion once I get the beast, to cut down my fuel costs around the city.
Anyone here have any advice before I take the plunge?
Cheers,
Scotty
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Reply By: scottywiper - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:04

Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:04
I forgot to mention, I spoke to one person who said they had a 1998 gas conversion and it cost almost as much as fuel with the additive that was needed.
Would this only be with older conversions?
Also said he lost a bit of power, but I have been told nowadays that too has improved.
AnswerID: 113992

Follow Up By: BenSpoon - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:56

Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:56
I had a 45 series on leaded which I needed the Valve Lube additive to run LPG on that. Also had an 80series Unleaded petrol on LPG and didnt need the lube on that. I am under the impression the valve lube is only required on cars running leaded.
The 80 did have an odd setup where it always started on petrol, then switched to gas once you hit 1500rpm- That may have had something to do with it, however I think that was just a safety measure to ensure fuel line seals never perished from a lack of an unleaded liquid lube.
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FollowupID: 370027

Reply By: Steve - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:14

Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 22:14
don't worry mate. The jobs a good un on a Croozer. Slight power loss/equiv of switching the air con on. I filled mine up from empty last week for $35. You'll use 15/20% more fuel but the bottom line is you'll pay less than half price for your kilometers. Do a topic search and don't let any scaremongers put you off. No probs with the op on a Croozer. Go for the 92 Litre tank replacing the spare wheel and sub tank.
AnswerID: 113999

Reply By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 23:05

Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 23:05
Buy one already converted to gas, It doesnt add to the value of the vehicle and will save you heaps. I reckon converting a car to gas is marginal due to to lack of outback bushability, loss of power and the cost of conversion but buying one converted makes sense and there are quite a few of them gas is just another accesory which is pretty much a straight wipe come sale time better them lose the money than you
AnswerID: 114008

Reply By: Beast Of Bodmin - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 08:11

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 08:11
G'day Scotty,
I have a 92 80 Cruiser on dual fuel. I boughtthis in Feb and was going through similar debates with myself as you are.

In my opinion, if you are doing lots of city k's, it is impossible to look past lpg - just too cheap to run a 4500!
I found mine already on gas, so was happy. However l have since found that my tank runs out of it's 10yr certification this year - they will check this in a roadworthy (in Vic anyhow). Shortly after l had an issue with not being able to idle on lpg. This turned into an $1100 recon of all the rubber diaphragm etc in the lpg side of the fuel system.
To some up, yep it looks like a deal to find one fitted already, but check it's age and service history. Mine has probably cost me 50% of a new installation.

Also, if you buy one already converted, make sure that the two pipes which used to connect to the sub tank are blocked off. If not, you run the risk of petrol gushing out, when climbing a modest hill with a full tank. This happened to me also!

The car is fantastic now though. I use mine in the bush and as a daily driver for 250km per week. You'll hardly notice a difference on gas, but as stated before the consumption is a little more.

The lubricator you mentioned is a good idea, but don't get too wound up about it! LPG is a dry fuel, so that is why lube kit is recommended. I do not have one, as the valve seats are hardened anyhow and in a truck that has done some good miles, you will not reap the reward. Save the money on the lube itself (kit is cheap) and put it towasrds having the head (valves etc) reco'd when it happens - maybe 10yrs away!

Look out for prices of the cars too, you can find the 4500at about 15k now!

Hope this helps
Beast of Bodmin
AnswerID: 114046

Reply By: Member - Peter R (QLD) - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:22

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:22
scottywiper,
Conversion to dual fuel for an 80 series costs about $2300 at Torquegas Caloundra.
Give Ron a ring at 1800 801 120 . He has a chart on payback time .

He recently did a dynotune on my 94 80 series dual fuel, and knows his business.

Pedro
AnswerID: 114057

Reply By: Paul.S - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 19:02

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 19:02
Hi Scott,
Just to let you know I use to drive but still have a 1993 Auto 80 series which I converted to gas in 1994 with 20km. Since done 380km no problems untill this year were an exhaust valve on head burnt out. City diriving 4km per litre, Hwy 4.6/4.8 km per ltr. Never missed a beat and has towed 1.8 ton boat for about 60km of its life. Mind you 2.8km per ltr when towing boat.
Best thing to do when on gas is have the shimes done every 80,000km and upper cyclinder lube drip system as suggested. Penrite has cyclinder lube at quater of the price.
I now drive 1995 Auto 80 series mutivalve Deisel which cost more to run than the 80 on gas.
Hope that helps a bit.
Later. Paul
AnswerID: 114119

Reply By: Steve - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 19:41

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 19:41
Scorry: obviously goes without saying it's better to pick one already converted, but as already pointed out, check how long ago it was done. I've just had my 2nd one done for $2200. When I advertised my first one for sale they were bangin the door down. So don't let any idiot say you don't get your money back. You get it back thru the bowser and you can get a good price when you sell. I'm not saying you can get the going rate + $2200, but you'll get the top end of it's value and it'll be easy to sell. Why some people reply to these topic without any previous...........????????????
AnswerID: 114124

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 07:08

Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 07:08
certainly gas like all accessorys makes it easier to sell and if I am an idiot without any previos experience why agree with me "Obviosly it goes without saying its better to pick one alrady converted"
"I am not saying you will get the going rate + 2200"
and your real doozy "You get it back thru the bowser and you can get a good price when you sell" well the same goes when selling a vehicle you bought already converted.
Instead of abusing me you could have seen the point I was trying to make which was I believe that as it wouldnt be hard to find one already converted which would be more economical than converting one yourself.
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FollowupID: 370142

Reply By: scottywiper - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 21:11

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 21:11
Hi guys,
Thanks for all the help. Only problem with buying one already converted is that I am finding (in Perth) that they are considerably more expensive. Cheaper to get an 80 and then convert it and at least it is a new system.
Not a mechanical whiz, but I have been told that the valve seats are too soft for gas and the seats get pounded into the head, but that you an replace them with stronger seats down the track.
The car I am looking at is a 1996 GXL 80, with 191ks on the clock.
Chassis nice, but has leaks in the power steering pump and rear main seal, which I am told is common for this vintage.
Other than that, presents really well and is going for $20,500, the only issue is some blue smoke that comes out when you take off after idling for a while. Doesn't happen when revving the car. Been told this is valve stem seals and is not a major problem by a couple of people, but it is making me a bit wary.
Any advice on that great before I commit myself!
AnswerID: 114137

Follow Up By: Beast Of Bodmin - Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 23:13

Thursday, Jun 02, 2005 at 23:13
Hi Scotty,
Leave it alone!

There's plenty of them about, so don't buy someone else's problem.
I paid $14k for mine, already on gas. It's a 92 and has 50% more k's than your one, but there are others aroundhere (melb) for about $16k-17k that look ok too.

Take your time, there's always plenty!

On the valve issue, the valves dont move, but the seal area burns away, allowing the valve to move further into the head, closing down the valve clearances.

Hope it helps
Beast of Bodmin

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FollowupID: 370134

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 06:57

Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 06:57
far too much I got a 94 diesal simular ks but with roo bar scrub bars water tank winch side steps cargo barrier rear wheel carrier gme 2 way spottys duel battery for 12600
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FollowupID: 370141

Reply By: scottywiper - Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 09:24

Friday, Jun 03, 2005 at 09:24
Again, thanks guys.
The one thing I will add it that it seems Cruisers are more expensive over here. Had a bit of a look on the net and there is a noticeable difference on this side of the country.
AnswerID: 114200

Reply By: scottywiper - Wednesday, Jun 08, 2005 at 23:26

Wednesday, Jun 08, 2005 at 23:26
Hi guys.
Thanks for all the help.
I found one converted in December, 2000.
If there much difference between a 2000 conversion and a new one?
Cheers,
Scotty
AnswerID: 114984

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