Landcruiser 80 series and LPG

I forgot to mention, I spoke to one person who said they had a 1998 gas conversion and it cost almost as much as fuel with the additive that was needed.
Would this only be with older conversions?
Also said he lost a bit of power, but I have been told nowadays that too has improved.

don't worry mate. The jobs a good un on a Croozer. Slight power loss/equiv of switching the air con on. I filled mine up from empty last week for $35. You'll use 15/20% more fuel but the bottom line is you'll pay less than half price for your kilometers. Do a topic search and don't let any scaremongers put you off. No probs with the op on a Croozer. Go for the 92 Litre tank replacing the spare wheel and sub tank.

Buy one already converted to gas, It doesnt add to the value of the vehicle and will save you heaps. I reckon converting a car to gas is marginal due to to lack of outback bushability, loss of power and the cost of conversion but buying one converted makes sense and there are quite a few of them gas is just another accesory which is pretty much a straight wipe come sale time better them lose the money than you

G'day Scotty,
I have a 92 80 Cruiser on dual fuel. I boughtthis in Feb and was going through similar debates with myself as you are.

In my opinion, if you are doing lots of city k's, it is impossible to look past lpg - just too cheap to run a 4500!
I found mine already on gas, so was happy. However l have since found that my tank runs out of it's 10yr certification this year - they will check this in a roadworthy (in Vic anyhow). Shortly after l had an issue with not being able to idle on lpg. This turned into an $1100 recon of all the rubber diaphragm etc in the lpg side of the fuel system.
To some up, yep it looks like a deal to find one fitted already, but check it's age and service history. Mine has probably cost me 50% of a new installation.

Also, if you buy one already converted, make sure that the two pipes which used to connect to the sub tank are blocked off. If not, you run the risk of petrol gushing out, when climbing a modest hill with a full tank. This happened to me also!

The car is fantastic now though. I use mine in the bush and as a daily driver for 250km per week. You'll hardly notice a difference on gas, but as stated before the consumption is a little more.

The lubricator you mentioned is a good idea, but don't get too wound up about it! LPG is a dry fuel, so that is why lube kit is recommended. I do not have one, as the valve seats are hardened anyhow and in a truck that has done some good miles, you will not reap the reward. Save the money on the lube itself (kit is cheap) and put it towasrds having the head (valves etc) reco'd when it happens - maybe 10yrs away!

Look out for prices of the cars too, you can find the 4500at about 15k now!

Hope this helps
Beast of Bodmin

scottywiper,
Conversion to dual fuel for an 80 series costs about $2300 at Torquegas Caloundra.
Give Ron a ring at 1800 801 120 . He has a chart on payback time .

He recently did a dynotune on my 94 80 series dual fuel, and knows his business.

Pedro

Hi Scott,
Just to let you know I use to drive but still have a 1993 Auto 80 series which I converted to gas in 1994 with 20km. Since done 380km no problems untill this year were an exhaust valve on head burnt out. City diriving 4km per litre, Hwy 4.6/4.8 km per ltr. Never missed a beat and has towed 1.8 ton boat for about 60km of its life. Mind you 2.8km per ltr when towing boat.
Best thing to do when on gas is have the shimes done every 80,000km and upper cyclinder lube drip system as suggested. Penrite has cyclinder lube at quater of the price.
I now drive 1995 Auto 80 series mutivalve Deisel which cost more to run than the 80 on gas.
Hope that helps a bit.
Later. Paul

Scorry: obviously goes without saying it's better to pick one already converted, but as already pointed out, check how long ago it was done. I've just had my 2nd one done for $2200. When I advertised my first one for sale they were bangin the door down. So don't let any idiot say you don't get your money back. You get it back thru the bowser and you can get a good price when you sell. I'm not saying you can get the going rate + $2200, but you'll get the top end of it's value and it'll be easy to sell. Why some people reply to these topic without any previous...........????????????

Hi guys,
Thanks for all the help. Only problem with buying one already converted is that I am finding (in Perth) that they are considerably more expensive. Cheaper to get an 80 and then convert it and at least it is a new system.
Not a mechanical whiz, but I have been told that the valve seats are too soft for gas and the seats get pounded into the head, but that you an replace them with stronger seats down the track.
The car I am looking at is a 1996 GXL 80, with 191ks on the clock.
Chassis nice, but has leaks in the power steering pump and rear main seal, which I am told is common for this vintage.
Other than that, presents really well and is going for $20,500, the only issue is some blue smoke that comes out when you take off after idling for a while. Doesn't happen when revving the car. Been told this is valve stem seals and is not a major problem by a couple of people, but it is making me a bit wary.
Any advice on that great before I commit myself!

Again, thanks guys.
The one thing I will add it that it seems Cruisers are more expensive over here. Had a bit of a look on the net and there is a noticeable difference on this side of the country.

Hi guys.
Thanks for all the help.
I found one converted in December, 2000.
If there much difference between a 2000 conversion and a new one?
Cheers,
Scotty