Dual Battery Systems

Submitted: Monday, Nov 18, 2002 at 01:00
ThreadID: 2402 Views:2512 Replies:8 FollowUps:7
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G"Day All,

Can you recommend a good reliable dual battery system for a 1993 Land Crusier 80 Series. Also, a quality installer for this system in the Perth area.

Thanking you,

Regards,

Warren
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Reply By: Truckster - Monday, Nov 18, 2002 at 01:00

Monday, Nov 18, 2002 at 01:00
Check here first, this has been done before.

Failing that, try
here
or
here


I hhave the fullhouse piranha system... why not I say! had the guage that tells you when which is down on power etc....
AnswerID: 8684

Reply By: Member - Ray - Monday, Nov 18, 2002 at 01:00

Monday, Nov 18, 2002 at 01:00
G'Day Warren,

I have a TJM Electronic Dual system fitted by TJM in O'Connor in my GU and so far it has given perfect service. I run a "Cole" fridge and Versalight and it also keeps the battery in the camper up to scratch.
All 3 batteries are HD types, not deep cycle.
Hope this is of some help.
Ray
AnswerID: 8685

Reply By: Allyn - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
Warren - I have the Rotronics RDC12M which any Opposite Lock store can fit for you. The RDC12M is the Big Kahuna of Battery Management (Rotronics) systems and there are smaller units around. It does everything it is supposed to and if you want more onfo go to www.rotronics.com.au and get their number to ring Rod Street. Extremely helpful gentlemen who will naswer all your questions honestly.
So there you have a recommendation for all three of the major players and you're probably no nearer a decision.
AnswerID: 8688

Follow Up By: Peter S - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
I have a Rotronics MH10 which is a parallel version workswell and will allow connection of solar panels. Mate has one in his 80 series LC. Been working for about 8 years in various trucks. A good product with good backup
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FollowupID: 4242

Follow Up By: Member - Paul- Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
I have to agree. I have a rotronics mh10. simple to install & so far a reliable unit. Mine is now 2 yrs old.
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FollowupID: 4244

Reply By: Andrew O - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
Warren - I use the ARB supplied Smart Solenoid. I fitted it myself, and for a person with zero mechanical aptitude, that says something about the quality of the instructions. I've been very happy with the unit, and the accompanying battery tray ... I bought with it (got the battery elsewhere as ARB charge to much for those). So now that's 4 recommendations!! Just detail your power requirements to each of the supliers (they should know to ask anyway) and see what they recommend.
All the best
Andrew O
GU2 3.0tdi
AnswerID: 8700

Reply By: Rob - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
I had a dual batt system fitted by ARB in Perth. Simple solenoid system
which worked well over a 10 month 45,000KM trip around Oz.

Problems? Here we go...

o The earth lead was bolted to the engine, and accessory sockets to
the
so all accessory power
relied upon the

o The battery tray finally cracked on the Canning.

o ARB bolted it to a threaded hole in the inside of the wing.
AnswerID: 8708

Reply By: Rob - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
I had a dual battery system fitted to my '95 80 series by ARB in Perth. The simple ARB solenoid system which functioned well over a 10 month 45,000KM trip around Oz.

Considering the price I paid them ($580 I think) for it - I was only 'fairly' satisifed (see bleow).

I was using it to run a 40L Engel, inverter and fluoro light. If I did it again, I would buy a suitable tray & battery & fit it myself using big Hella Relay to link the two batts when ignition on. This would be cheaper than a 'professional installation'. I would add a monitor to keep an eye on things.

Rob


Problems? Here we go...

o The earth lead was bolted to the engine, and accessory sockets to
the chasis so all accessory power relied upon the good electrical
connection between chassis - engine. I added a negative lead
between battery and power sockets to ensure lowest electrical
resistance. I think ARB should have sone this to start with.

o The battery tray finally cracked on the Canning.

o ARB bolted it to a threaded hole in the inside of the wing. The steel
around the thread is not that strong and finally tore out. I replaced this
with a 10mm bolt, large washers & nyloc nut.

o By the end of the trip, the N70ZZ battery was not holding a good
charge. I was deep cycling it fairly regularly - perhaps not what it
was designed for. I wonder if it could have been replaced under the
2 year warranty - or is this "normal wear and tear"?

AnswerID: 8711

Reply By: Member - Warren - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
Thank you all very much for the responses. I now have a better understanding of the various systems, and where to have it installed if required.

Cheer's

Warren
AnswerID: 8712

Follow Up By: Oziexplorer - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
Warren have you tried your local auto-electrician?

They fit these type of Redarc units:
http://www.redarc.com.au/sbi.htm
Solenoid Battery Isolators.
These are a quality reliable Australian made unit, that easily allows you to bring your second battery in as a starter cranking battery if your main battery fails.
You can read the tech specs here:
http://www.redarc.com.au/sbi-techspec.htm
There are thousands, yes thousands of vehicles using these and they are inexpensive, work very well and are reliable.
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FollowupID: 4255

Follow Up By: Mark - Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00

Tuesday, Nov 19, 2002 at 01:00
Warren,
One thing to keep in mind with the parallel systems is they do take longer to charge the aux battery. If you run down the auxillary battery overnight with a fridge etc, when the car is next started the aux battery is connected in parallel to the main battery and charging circuit, the problem is most alternators are voltage sensed and when they detect the fully charged main battery the output current is reduced. I understand Rotronics have a more expensive system that overcomes this and both batteries are charged independantly and receive the correct charge. I have a parallel system and in order to speed up the charge have to disconnect the main battery once the motor is running which is not ideal.
Mark
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FollowupID: 4256

Reply By: Allyn - Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00

Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00
Warren - independent charging system is best I believe and also look for low voltage cut-out as cut-out in fridges is only to protect the compressor and not your battery (cuts out too low) and you could damage batteries. This is what I was doing until Rotronics came along. I have it on good authority that I can expect yeaqrs out of each battery now whereas they were only good for 12 months previously. This helped offset costs of my system and the reliability is the greatest asset.
AnswerID: 8738

Follow Up By: Member - Ian - Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00

Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00
Allyn
i am thinking of the rotronics was just wondering what model u have and the aprrox cost
thanks Ian
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FollowupID: 4272

Follow Up By: Allyn - Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00

Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00
Ian - I have the RDC12M and it was about $800 plus fitting (inclusive of monitor).
The posts above will tell of smaller units but I recommend looking up their web site and using 1-800 number to call Rod Street. He will give the best advice you could ask for.
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FollowupID: 4273

Follow Up By: Member - Nigel - Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00

Wednesday, Nov 20, 2002 at 01:00
Ian, I got the RFC12 system from Rotronics (around the $400 mark unfitted) similar to the dearer systems but without the internal monitor. Still does the independant charge - which works very well for me as I use my fridge a lot - in fact it hasn't been off in the past month. I hook up a mains charger overnight a couple of times a week to keep the aux battery in top shape.
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FollowupID: 4292

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