Dual Battery Systems

Check here first, this has been done before.

Failing that, try
here
or
here


I hhave the fullhouse piranha system... why not I say! had the guage that tells you when which is down on power etc....

G'Day Warren,

I have a TJM Electronic Dual system fitted by TJM in O'Connor in my GU and so far it has given perfect service. I run a "Cole" fridge and Versalight and it also keeps the battery in the camper up to scratch.
All 3 batteries are HD types, not deep cycle.
Hope this is of some help.
Ray

Warren - I have the Rotronics RDC12M which any Opposite Lock store can fit for you. The RDC12M is the Big Kahuna of Battery Management (Rotronics) systems and there are smaller units around. It does everything it is supposed to and if you want more onfo go to www.rotronics.com.au and get their number to ring Rod Street. Extremely helpful gentlemen who will naswer all your questions honestly.
So there you have a recommendation for all three of the major players and you're probably no nearer a decision.

Warren - I use the ARB supplied Smart Solenoid. I fitted it myself, and for a person with zero mechanical aptitude, that says something about the quality of the instructions. I've been very happy with the unit, and the accompanying battery tray ... I bought with it (got the battery elsewhere as ARB charge to much for those). So now that's 4 recommendations!! Just detail your power requirements to each of the supliers (they should know to ask anyway) and see what they recommend.
All the best
Andrew O
GU2 3.0tdi

I had a dual batt system fitted by ARB in Perth. Simple solenoid system
which worked well over a 10 month 45,000KM trip around Oz.

Problems? Here we go...

o The earth lead was bolted to the engine, and accessory sockets to
the
so all accessory power
relied upon the

o The battery tray finally cracked on the Canning.

o ARB bolted it to a threaded hole in the inside of the wing.

I had a dual battery system fitted to my '95 80 series by ARB in Perth. The simple ARB solenoid system which functioned well over a 10 month 45,000KM trip around Oz.

Considering the price I paid them ($580 I think) for it - I was only 'fairly' satisifed (see bleow).

I was using it to run a 40L Engel, inverter and fluoro light. If I did it again, I would buy a suitable tray & battery & fit it myself using big Hella Relay to link the two batts when ignition on. This would be cheaper than a 'professional installation'. I would add a monitor to keep an eye on things.

Rob


Problems? Here we go...

o The earth lead was bolted to the engine, and accessory sockets to
the chasis so all accessory power relied upon the good electrical
connection between chassis - engine. I added a negative lead
between battery and power sockets to ensure lowest electrical
resistance. I think ARB should have sone this to start with.

o The battery tray finally cracked on the Canning.

o ARB bolted it to a threaded hole in the inside of the wing. The steel
around the thread is not that strong and finally tore out. I replaced this
with a 10mm bolt, large washers & nyloc nut.

o By the end of the trip, the N70ZZ battery was not holding a good
charge. I was deep cycling it fairly regularly - perhaps not what it
was designed for. I wonder if it could have been replaced under the
2 year warranty - or is this "normal wear and tear"?

Thank you all very much for the responses. I now have a better understanding of the various systems, and where to have it installed if required.

Cheer's

Warren

Warren - independent charging system is best I believe and also look for low voltage cut-out as cut-out in fridges is only to protect the compressor and not your battery (cuts out too low) and you could damage batteries. This is what I was doing until Rotronics came along. I have it on good authority that I can expect yeaqrs out of each battery now whereas they were only good for 12 months previously. This helped offset costs of my system and the reliability is the greatest asset.