100 series clutch shudder/injection pump

The clutch shudder when taking off with the vehicle cold is a common problem. It always happens to me for the first time then for the rest of the journey, it is not a problem.

Re the surging problem in 3rd and 4th, try resting your foot against the side trim and slowly depress the accelorator keeping your foot against the side trim. Might help.

I know three ppl with 80 & 100 series cruisers who all have clutch shudder. The 100 it is mainly when cold, the two 80s it is all the time.

Sao
52,000 ks and out of warranty? IS the vehicle more than 3 years old?
Don't know what state you're in, but try a local diesel specialist for pump calibration.

Rob

SAO;
I have a friend who had a 100 and had a heap of trouble with it. One of the problems was a clutch shudder. Toyota replaced the clutch under warranty and this did not fix the problem. Eventually they took the flywheel out and refaced it and put in another clutch (all under warranty) and this I believe fixed the problem. However he has since gotten rid of the vehicle.

Hope this helps. Cheers.

hi Sao, Yes my 100seriers has the same problem with the clutch shudder only when the engine/gearbox is cold. It goes away after 2-5 km of drivig . my vehicle has done 160,000+ km. As for your surging problem get a diesel mechanic to look at that not a Toyota mechanic as they dont know much about diesel.
cheers ...

Hi Sao, unfortunatly the clutch shudder is a "standard feature" with the 100. Mine is the same and even after a new clutch kit, flywheel machine and so on, it came back after about 20k! I've just got used to it after 160k's! i guess if you spend enough money on it you can make it go away!
find a good diesel shop to check out your injectors/pump. if the roughness is in fourth gear only I'd be suprised if it's your pump.
Starting rough from cold may be an injector issue. does it blow lots of smoke when cold started? might have a stickey injector? A good diesel shop will service or exchange the injectors for you at the right price. They are prone to wear out at about 60k, but have been known to last shorter/longer. this may also be linked to your surging.

the guys on www.lcool.org have a fair bit of technical on this stuff.

My 100 1HZ had the same clutch shudder problem, and when getting the thing services while going round the big block, every dealer that I mentioned the shudder to was prepared to replace the clutch under warranty. When I got home, my local dealer (whom I DON'T deal with anymore) told me that Toyota's recommended first try fix was to "alter the plunger stoke on the pump to change the power characteristics, as the factory set them at a different altitiude". This sounded like bull$hit to me, but I let them do it and it stuffed what economy I had, made it run like an even slower slug, and blew a lot of soot. When I complained, they said that they got the timing wrong (I though they changed the plunger stroke?) and did it again. Initially, unbeleivably, it didn't seem to shudder as much; whether this had anything to do with softening the power delivery by changing the timing or whatever- I don't know.

The bottom line was that eventually, they put a new clutch in it and out the pump back the way iut was and it was fine for a month, then the shudder came back. I suspect that your dealer is looking at the same Toyota bulletin that my dealer saw. Apparently, some dealers have been able to fix clutch shudder by fiddling with the pump, but I just don't see how that could be. I have heard of others trying aftermarket HD clutches and having the same problem, but I suspect that it might have something to do with the flywheel, rather than just the clutch. I've just got used to it I spose, and I can't understand how they can let these issues go on un-resolved either. They really must think that they can rest on their laurels. Personally, I think a lot of these problems and the fixing of them is more related to how good your dealer is,

Hope this helps,

Andrew

G'day Sao

I am thinking along the same lines as Andrew. One of Toyota's fixes for the shudder problem is to alter injector pump timing. Maybe yours has been changed with detrimental effect. I would check this and fuel filters first before spending the big dollars.

My own vehicle, which is a 79 series ute has the same running gear as your 100 series and is prone to the same problem. Toyota replaced the clutch and flywheel under warranty. This has been a great improvement on the original however the clutch still shudders when cold or after a period of light use. Apparently the shudder is due to the fact that asbestos is no longer used in making clutch plates which results in a harder material. The flywheel that toyota use in their replacements has a coarser finish which prevents glazing and reduces shudder.

If you are thinking of replacing your clutch I would suggest Daiken as a replacement. Their kits have solved some of the problems associated with asbestos free material. I have recently fitted a kit to our Prado which also suffered shudder and is performing very well so far.

Hope this helps
Dazz.

Gday SAO,

I can't help with the clutch shudder (My experience is with an auto) although it MAY be related to the "surging" you describe.
My 2000 HZJ 105 auto would shudder whilst stationary (and nearly stationary) in drive with the engine at idle. It would also surge once the torque converter locked (economy mode) at between 1400 - 1600RPM once the engine had been running for a while.

Apparently there was a problem with looseness in the "fly weights" in the injector pump compounded by "internal pump pressure". The job of the fly weights is to limit the amount of fuel injected when you floor the accelaerator at low revs. If they are loose apparently they can bounce around giving the effect of rapdly pumping the accelerator even though you are holding it firm. Blocked fuel filters can increase the problem.

In my case (at 22,00K) a NSW dealer tested the vehicle with the fuel filter bypassed, and it would not surge. They replaced the ryco fuel filter which I had fitted at 20,000K with a toyota one but the problem re-appeared later. After being given the run around by my local dealer in Melbourne, in the end Toyota paid for the pump to be dismantled and found that (apart from the dud fly weights) it had a bent shaft. It was better after the reco, but is now a problem again (110,000K)

Good luck

Peter L