Electronic RUST prevention??

Submitted: Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:18

ThreadID: 24843 Views:24248 Replies:10 FollowUps:30

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Johnny boy

Hi all

Well its simple ....What is it and how does it work/ does it work/ is it worth fitting ??
they say You get 6 fixtures with a pack for a 100 ser L/C but is it just a gimmic or what ??

Regards JB.

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Reply By: Brew69(SA) - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:28

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:28

I have an electronic tiger deterrer in my back yard which works just the same way.

AnswerID: 121005

Follow Up By: hl - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:32

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:32

they're geat, eh...?
Bet you haven't had any tiger problems

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Follow Up By: Rosco - Bris. - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:36

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:36

We've got a dog that hunts elephants. Sweet as .... no pachyderms 'round our neck of the woods.

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Follow Up By: Johnny boy - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:46

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:46

UM I usually get the joke ..BUT NOT THIS TIME????

whats this have to do with stopping rust!!!!!

its killing me because a mate recons this device exist .

JB.

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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:03

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:03

IMO its a gimmick.

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Reply By: pf11 - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:47

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:47

JB

The way I figure it is: lets say your going to keep your vehicle for 10 years, and lets assume the kit costs you around the $350.00 mark (give or take some). You will spend 1/2 day to fit the kit properly and the rest of the life of your vehicle wondering if its a gimmic or not. But for an average of $35.00 per year for the peace of mind (Be it speculation or actual fact who really knows) is a small price to pay in this day and age.
I have one fitted to my 2001 cruiser and hopefully in 2011 I will be thinking that it was a wise decision.
Regards: Phil

AnswerID: 121008

Follow Up By: Johnny boy - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:51

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:51

Thanx phil.

So how does it work and why does it take a 1/2 day day to fit??

Regards JB.

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Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:00

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:00

I agree Phil. Bit hard to prove just yet, but there is evidence they work.

Search the archives. There are heaps of posts on this. Mostly for, some against.

I rang ERPS on Gold Coast today ( erps.com.au). Planning on picking up an 8 coupler kit tomorrow. Will cost about $500. You can get them a bit cheaper from Olbis (olbis.com.au). They have the 6 coupler kit for $439, plus $23 each for extra couplers), but ERPS (who makes them) is closer.

I'll fit the extra couplers (on the chassis) as I do a bit of beach driving.

There are cheaper systems, but this is the one I've read most about.

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Follow Up By: pf11 - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:16

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:16

Its rather complicated to explain but in a nut shell this system acts in the same way that an ANODE works in your household hot water system. Rust destroys negative ions in metals and without replacing these ions the metal disintegrates. This system is said to replace those ions in the metal and therefor preventing the deteriation of the body.

The time it takes to fit will depend on how fussy you are regarding your truck, as you are aware there are six pads that are to be fitted (2 up front, 2 mid way and 2 at the rear) so the wires for these pads must be run in the channels that the original wireing lives as not to damage them. So this proceedure could take a while, also the pads must be well insulated and therefor will need a cote of paint on the body at the point of adhesion and this could also be time consuming depending on how easy the inner panels of your vehicle are to remove.

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Reply By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:55

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 20:55

'Rusting' or oxidation is a chemical reaction which involves the transferance of electrons. ERP systems seek to stop this transfer occurring by pushing the electrons back the other way. Should work on all bits of steel that are connected to the system, provided that there are no disimilar metals in the circuit where corrosion occur at the points where these metals meet. Works well on ships at sea but you will note that some parts of them still rust. This is because the ERP cannot protect all of the electrons ALL of the time. Hope that helps.

MIK

AnswerID: 121014

Follow Up By: Johnny boy - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:00

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:00

AHHHHHHHH yeah no worries thanx .....hang on a sec Im just looking for my chemistry book ????????????????

no really thanks for that Mik I will try to look into this a little more now that I know it really exist.

Regards jb.

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Follow Up By: Rosco - Bris. - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:04

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:04

Also the ships are immersed in a seriously good conductor ... salt water.

The system works well in most things immersed in salt water e.g. ships, bridge pylons etc etc.

There are 2 schools of thought as to the efficacy of the system in vehicles. Those who prefer to accept the theory ... and those who find it all a wee tad hard to swallow.

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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:12

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:12

One of the mobs claims Kanowna belle gold mines to be a customer, I understand they were until they relized it was BS and gave up. Where these shonks thrive is people buying it and usually there is many years and maybe more than one owner before effectiveness can be validated. However in an underground mine effectiveness can be validated in less than a year SNAKE OIL. Hence the reason that despite severe corroision problems these systems are not used as they have been tried and dont work

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Follow Up By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:23

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:23

Hence my comment about protection being available ALL of the time. Ships still rust, so do bridge pylons and quite badly at that because they are exposed to the harshest of conditions where rust will occur no matter what. I would not get an ERP simply because my vehicle is too old to worry about it and the paint job *should* be good enough to protect.

If I had spent some more $$$$$$ then I could see the argument for a three-pronged approach involving a good paint job, careful maintenance AND ERP (like on ships and pylons).

Simply because the mine vehicles rusted does not show that the system did not work, merely that rusting is accelerated under the right (or wrong) conditions. No an ERP is not the panacea for rust problems but it is an effective and chemically viable tool for the reduction of rust.

At $30 a year sounds like a good little bit of extra protection given that a new paint job could cost $$$

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Follow Up By: Rosco - Bris. - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:29

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:29

More recently .. as in the Port of Brisbane. The pylons are adequately protected due to a similar procedure.

With older ones this is not the case.

I wish you well with your investment ... merely stating my point of view that I have some difficulty accepting that it in actual fact works.

Cheers

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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:52

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:52

I think you missed my point. The system was discontinued not because the vehicles still rusted, That of course is inevitable but because they didnt do a damn thing. Prolonging a vehicles life by 1 year would be worthwhile but not working is wasting money. These systems have not worked from day dot. years ago there was a letter to the ed from a disgruntled user who complained when his vehicle broke out in rust he was sent (free of charge) some more couplings or whatever, which of course didnt work so complained again and was sent a can of Fisholine and was told they didnt want to hear from him again as they had done all they could. It is yet another product that uses what people fear most as a selling point along with free sex just dial 1900 f^&*ck me, the 10 second ab blaster to lose 100kg and get a 6 pack, fuel savers (pick one any one) and tax effective schemes for those that hate to pay tax these all have one thing in common and are only one step up from Nigerian Letters. Sorry to sound defensive but surly you have heard of the saying "if it sounds too good to be true"

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Follow Up By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:04

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:04

I don't doubt there are systems of this type that do not work for whatever reasons but the theory of this system is sound given that the chemical reaction to make rust can effectivley be reversed by applying a current to steel (it produces "rust acid" - iron hydroxide). Provided that the theory is correctly applied then this sytem HAS to work (at least most of the time), although we know in the real world that the theory will rarely be correctly applied. It does not sound too good to be true but I admit that I am sceptical about the earth created being effective enough to STOP rust as opposed to reducing it.

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Follow Up By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:09

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:09

sorry I only have dial up speeds atm but I am even more sceptical now given the drivel seen here: Olbis ERPS.

These guys aren't talking science, sounds more like witchcraft!!!!

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Follow Up By: chump_boy - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 12:24

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 12:24

".....(a) high concentration of electrons over time causes the whole car to become covered by a layer of electrons that are held static by the paintwork preventing the charge from leaking away....."

"....The System will not prevent rust stains forming on porous paint because the porous paint is not an adequate dielectric, and so a layer of oxidation forms that will tend to run after it has rained, but if left this will not proceed to rust perforation....."

"...a good quality coating is essential to maximise the protection and prevention offered by the electronic system....."

With quotes like ones above, no wonder people think this is utter rubbish! What the hell has paint got to do with the process, except keeping the underlying metal away from the air/moisture? And I would have thought the rubber tyres would have had more to do with insulation than a mm of paint.

They are saying then that they system will not protect bare metal (like scratches, or small pin-holes in the paint work), but instead only protects metal covered by non-porous paint? hmmmmm.....

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Reply By: F4Phantom - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:12

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:12

Hey the science of it does not make any sense at all except for 1 device I know of in the market. I dont know if the device actually works but in theory it's the only sensible option
http://www.ruststoponline.com/why-ruststop.html

and here is a much better system
http://www.abc.net.au/science/news/stories/s166799.htm

I know many poeple here understand this but I will explain for any interested. Please feel free to correct me.

Rust is actually a potential difference (PD) between different metals. PD is commomly called voltage. Where ever you have a PD between metals or even the same metal you will have electrons flowing from the one metal to the other untill the system is balanced or equlibrium is reached. When metal is bent or welded you get a PD and there fore rusting/corrosion/oxidisation - it's all the same. A battery is simply a PD between 2 metals, and a rechargeable battery reverses the PD so electrons flow the other way. Like tilting a bucket one way, then the other, the water flows back and foward to create equlibrium. So with your car, you have a PD in the metals (thats why the old land rovers chassis rusted real bad cause the PD between the aluminium and steel on the ladder) and rust develops. The paint covers the metal to stop the metal with the different PD touching so the electrons cant flow. The electrons need somthing to flow in, such as water. Pure water is not very good at allowing electrons to flow, but contaminated water or SALTY water is very good. The mobs selling these electric rust provention devices say they are flowing an excess of electrons over the metal panel so when the PD takes an electron away, its instantly replaced - therfore no rust. The problem with this is that there is no where for the electrons to flow, cause how do you get from the electric current to the spot of rust on the car, the is no medium for the electrons to flow thorugh. Thats why ships can use this system, and it works really well, and so do bridges, and phone towers etc, all surrounded by water or wet gound. A car is not, so the system cant work. However, this other mob on the link i put, admit this problem but say they use sacrificial annodes or cathodes and send the current through the panel to the annode. I think this may work but i would want to call a university professor to discuss and confirm first, i hate buying stuff which does not make sense.

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Follow Up By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:39

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:39

I do not want to correct your explanation of rust because it is pretty much the same as mine, but for a current to flow there only needs to be an earth and in this case the vehicle will provide the earth and hence a flow of electrons.

You also made another good point about sacrificial anodes, also used on ship. They are bits which will corrode before the main metal and they do that by their ions having a higher negative charge than the metal they are protecting. This is one system that would not be that effective on a vehicle because both metals really need a good conductive medium around them for the reaction to work unless the difference in valency (ionic charge) is so great that the conductive medium does not matter. In this case the sacrificial anode would probably be so reactive in air that it would not provide protection for long enough.

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Follow Up By: joc45 - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 23:08

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 23:08

Actually, sacrificial anodes do exist in vehicles; it's when the steel is zinc plated, aka galvanising. Quite effective, as everyone knows (till the zinc runs out), and uses no power.
Re the electron field which supposedly spreads out from the pads of these ERPS devices (according to their theory), I fail to see how the electron field can reach enclosed areas, such as the inside of chassis members and rocker panels. In the 1800's, Faraday proved effect of the "Faraday Shield" which basically says that an external electric field cannot reach into a sealed (or close-to-sealed) metal chamber; eg, enclosed chassis areas. So these areas would not gain benefit from any electric field generated by the pads. And it's often these enclosed areas where rust starts.
Funny, I had a Maverick which I ran for 12 years, including beach work. No anti-rust preparation on my behalf, and it was rust-free when I sold it (sure, I hosed it out after a beach run, but who wouldn't). Conversely, years ago, my brother had a Valiant which had its doors rusting out 18 months from new, (no beach work). The bottom line is that preparation of the metal at manufacture time of the vehicle plays the biggest part in rust prevention, and most of today's vehicles have come a long way since the bad old days. This includes zinc-plated areas, better anti-rust primers, and also avoidance of moisture traps in the design (remember the roof problems with the 80 series Tojos?)
My two bob's worth, Gerry

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Follow Up By: mik_wright - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 23:23

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 23:23

Good call on galvanising Gerry, although the zinc is actually a barrier and produces zinc oxide which can also acts as a barrier to further rust formation rather than acting as a true sacrifcial anode which is absorbed into the electrolyte and reacts before the metal it is protecting. Both properties can exist but only in the presence of an electrolyte like salt water.

I finally (damn dialup) read up about the theory of the ERPS and agree that their theory sounds like crap. I cannot really see a 'static' charge being built up by capacitance over the whole body of the car from a DC source. If it was a proper circuit then it may work. I think, especially on my vehicle, I would rather trust the paint job and some light, penetrating protective oil sprayed around after particularly harsh driving conditions...

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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 01:08

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 01:08

jock45 you totally got it with the moisture trap thing. After seeing rusted valiants I took note that most of the time they were rusted in the same place. after a check of mine sure enough there were mud traps there so when washing I would pay attention to these spots. Only rust i got was along a chrome strip along the bottom that had been incorrectly fitted after an accident without the proper sealing rubber behind and it trapped mud and leaves

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Reply By: MartyB - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:27

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 21:27

I bought an ERPS brand approx 7 years ago. I fitted to a Jackaroo which I kept for 5 years. When I sold the Jackaroo it had never had any rust in it. During that time it did plenty of trips to Fraser Island. When I sold the Jackaroo I removed the ERPS & fitted it to the Disco I bought. It is still on the Disco & it has not rusted.
I am sure heaps of people will say that the vehicles might never have rusted anyway, but Jackaroos that regularly go to Fraser are not renowned for being rust free. I don't know how you would ever prove it does work but I will probably buy another if this one ever dies.
Before anyone points out that Discos are Aluminium, I fitted it to the steel bits.

from Marty.

AnswerID: 121024

Follow Up By: hilux bert - Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:16

Monday, Jul 18, 2005 at 22:16

when you look in to them the couplertec type works. well the theory does anyway. works differently to the erps typs, check out the site and they give a pretty detailed explanation. have a look i'm thinking about one in the gu with the all steel body.

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Follow Up By: joc45 - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:43

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:43

As person who has worked in electronics for 40 years, the explanation is just a conglomeration of buzzwords. eg, "aircraft grade 3M adhesive" as if aircraft gives it some cred. "strong enough to be read on a multimeter (450v)" Most multimeters will read millivolts, let alone 450v. Their explanation of the actual technology is not an explanation. It talks of precision generators, microcomputers (as in mobile phone technology), pad energy and pure pad power, mathematically correct, but doesn't explain the methodology.
In their statement "There are three things that need to be supplied to the pad in order to induce the charge through the non-conductive painted surface, volts, frequency and capacitance" , well capacitance is an intergral part of the pad/paint combination, and is not "supplied". Frequency seems to contradict other theories; is this an AC field? if so, then it will have no effect on the chemistry. If a pulsed DC field, then an explanation of what the pulsing and its frequency has on the chemistry would be in order. If the frequency is only to do with the high voltage inverter, with the end result a DC field, then it's irrelevant to the whole equation.
I think I might start marketing an Aromatherapy Rust Prevention System. Anyone want to bankroll me? I'll send you the technical explanation of how it works if you really need convincing in parting with your money.
Gerry

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Reply By: muzzgit (WA) - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 01:13

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 01:13

Get yourself a staun body jet and a bottle of salt assault.

Regularly spray the under side of the car and into the chassis wherever possible, you shouldn't have too many probs, unless the car was used in one of those ads showing some dingbat driving along the beach spraying water every where.

Ofcourse, salt assault won't do much for body panels but regalar washing with a quality car wash and properly airing out the vehicle in warm weather will do a lot.

The main reason 60 cruisers rusted out the roof was high levels of moisture in the cabin and not being aired properly.

I bought a second hand 60 series wagon which was garaged all it's life and showed no signs of rust when I sold it. A mate of mine had one, same age, lived outside and rusted thru the roof real quick.

I leave my windows down in summer whenever I can.

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Follow Up By: joc45 - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 13:23

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 13:23

Hi Muggzit,
I never owned a 60 series, but a lot of mates did, and a fine machine they were. The problem apparently was that condensation inside the roof would run down into a cavity on the inside of the gutters where it couldn't escape, and rust would build up around the collected moisture. This was a design issue peculiar to the 80 series.
But as you say, one of the best rust prevention measures is to keep the wagon garaged.
Cheers,
Gerry

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Reply By: chump_boy - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 09:01

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 09:01

I guess a quick and dirty way to test these things would be to attach the device to a bare piece of steel out in your yard, and see if it rusts. Some of that reo the concreters use in slabs.

Better yet, buy two pieces, leave them both out in the weather, but attach the device to one. Should take a day or so to see if it actually works.

In my mind, I think the sacrificial anode would be far more effective, just because the process is still occuring, just on a different piece of metal. Why fight the process?

I guess with all these gizmos, the metals all have to be connected to each other to work. That is near on impossible, so they won't (ie..can't) protect the whole car, only the connected pieces of metal.

Thats just what I think, anyway.

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Reply By: ev700 - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 10:26

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 10:26

This link may be of interest:

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car/car-electronic-rust.htm

Sorry you may have to copy and paste the URL into the address.

I know nothing about ERPS or other devices and am not commenting on any particular unit, however my private opinion is that:
a) the manufacturers of devices that work are prepared to have them tested by recognised independent authorities. It's in their interest for the publicity alone and not to do it raises a red (bulldust) flag; and
b) if a rust reducing device is invented that is cheaper than zinc coating and paints then the car manufacturers would be in like a shot to pick it up.

The only things that have ever worked on my boat trailer are hot dip zinc, painting with lanolin and a good spray off with water after exposure to salt spray. The fact that the boat has an anode does not protect it or the trailer when on land ;-)

As a general comment I have no faith whatsoever in the will of the present federal Govt to protect the community from scamsters. Both State and Federal Govts had to be dragged kicking to do anything when confronted with years of evidence of real estate scams.

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Reply By: mid life - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 11:21

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 11:21

Boy a lot of people on this forum talk a lot of crap especially those who freely offer "expert advice" on subjects they know little about.

I've used both Electronic and applied protection systems on my vehicles over the years and both offer what they purport to "Protection" both are limited to to the quality of the installation or application and vehicle manufacturers defects. In a perfect world I'm sure they would offer exactly what they claim, but unfortunately we don't live in a perfect world. There for if you are really concerned get both if not go for which ever system you feel comfortable with.

Good Luck

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Follow Up By: chump_boy - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 11:43

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 11:43

"In a perfect world I'm sure they would offer exactly what they claim, but unfortunately we don't live in a perfect world."

So what you are saying is someone can claim these things work, yet if they don't work, it doesn't matter? It must be an install or vehicle manufacturer problem?

What other item has that sort of warranty system? I sell winches, and if I claimed my winches did something, and they didn't, I'd expect to have to recall all the models I had sold, fix them, then re-issue them. There is no way a reputable retailer should be able to make claims that cannot be proven to work in all installations.

By the way, does anyone know where the term snakeoil came from?

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Follow Up By: mid life - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 10:32

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 10:32

What I'm saying chump_boy is the product works fine just like the winches you sell, but if its not installed right just like if your winches aren't wired up or bolted on correctly they don't work, but it doesn't mean the winch or the rust protection doesn't live up to its claim.

By the way if your interested ask the commercial fishereman who fish along our beaches what they use? They drive their vehicles in salt water all the time and a lot use ERPS.

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Follow Up By: chump_boy - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 12:13

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 12:13

I think it is a totally different situation. If a winch is wired up wrong, it won't work. If it is bolted in wrong, it will shear off the metal holders. I can get an individual unit tested, and say with 99.9% certainty that a given batch will use a given amount of electricity to move a given weight.

There is no way to definitively say wether these rust protection systems are wired up right, until many years later. By then, it is too late. That is the problem I have with these systems. The warranties only last a relatively short period of time, compared to the life of a typical 4WD vehicle (I stand to be corrected - I am assuming 12 month warranties are provided).

I get a lot of sales calls at work, and deal with a lot of different marketing people, and I don't believe anything unless there is proven scientific results, and a company backed written guarantee. It doesn't matter what people claim - unless a written guarantee for the life of a product, or valid scientific testing can be provided, what they are saying can be taken with a grain of salt.

We had a vacuum salesman come to our house a few years ago, selling this $3000 vacuum cleaner. It only came with a 2 year warranty, but we were assured it was designed to last 15 years. Once we started asking questions like "why not warrant it for 15 years", "what happens in 2 years when the motor dies" the salesman was full of excuses. We then politely showed him the door.

Having said that, I am an engineer, so I require this type of information. I am sure other people can draw their own conclusions from a given amount of data, and from other peoples comments. I just don't trust anyone that is trying to sell me something.

If these things work, thats great. Until it is scientifically proven, I'll slot them into the hiclone / perpetual motion / time machine / religion basket in my mind.

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Follow Up By: mid life - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 16:19

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 16:19

I take it buy your response you don't have your vehicle rust proofed at all, because I don't know any rust proofing system thats offers the sort of warranties your looking for.

But to answer your comment, yes this type of system has been "scientifically proven" to work just as effectively as chemical based ones but like all of the rust protection systems available today they are prone to imperfections. and to say "There is no way to definitively say wether these rust protection systems are wired up right, until many years later. By then, it is too late. That is the problem I have with these systems" also must apply to chemical systems as well, how can you definitively say you got to all the corners in the panels until many years later?

But to "slot them in with hiclone / pertetual motion etc simply shows what a closed mind you have but then again I don't suppose you use a microwave oven either might get radiation poisoning.

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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 01:07

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 01:07

By the way if your interested ask the commercial fishereman who fish along our beaches what they use? They drive their vehicles in salt water all the time and a lot use ERPS

By the way sea water is virtually drinking quality compared to the water mine vehicles drive through Apparantly 8 times saltier is actually supersaline in that it holds more salt in solution than it should (dont ask me the chem of this but i can assure you it is bloody evil stuff) even in those kinds of envoronments they arnt dumb enough to use them coz they have been tried and dont work. No iffs no buts no people saying well it didnt rust in 5 years (damn well shouldnt either) just tried and failed

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Follow Up By: chump_boy - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 07:51

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 07:51

But the web site says it will only protect metal under paint! Am I missing something, or is that metal already protected?

Where is this scientific proof? I stand to be corrected if someone can show me some proof that these things work.

My car is not rust proofed. I wash it regularly, and am very careful to remove all the mud and muck I find. It is 7 years old, and no rust. I prefer to look after the paint myself, and polish out the scratches, rather than pay money for some electrical gizmo to protect only the protected areas.

Look, some people probably feel they work for them. Thats Great. I think they are a waste of money. To each his own.

Cheers

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Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:21

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:21

You can tell if they are wired up right. You can take voltage measurements. Couplertec gives a 10 year (from vehicle build date) corrosion guarantee. To keep the guarantee valid, you have to take it back for an annual inspection to ensure the system is still working OK.

I'm happy that the better systems work in reducing rust. Do they work well enough to warrant the expense. A matter of judgment, like most things. I don't have a system, but I'm likely to get one. On balance I think it is a reasonable investment.

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Follow Up By: chump_boy - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 08:01

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 08:01

Norm,

I just think some proper tests should be done to either prove or disprove these units. It seems easy to do. Consumers like us shouldn't have to weigh up the averages, listen to arguments for and against, and decide for ourselves wether they work or not.

It should be a case of installing a system, knowing the car is protected, and moving on. Like installing a couple of spotlights. Get them installed, and they work. Sure, there will always be debate between brands, and brighness, and all sorts of things, but at least we know they will work.

I am a hard man to please though, so don't pay too much attention to my ramblings.......;)

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