GLIND SHOWER still having problems

Submitted: Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:05
ThreadID: 24885 Views:2961 Replies:6 FollowUps:11
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I managed to have a play around with the shower today,i got same 15ml and 10ml hose from work the 15ml seem to work with a better flow rate till i started the motor then the problem started again,i tryed the 10ml but no luck both hoses were about 3mtrs in length is there any one in adelaide that could help me work this out this would be much apperiated cheer's GREENDOG
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Reply By: cokeaddict - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:10

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:10
Greendog, whats was the problem mate? if you posted this before whats the number and ill check it
AnswerID: 121193

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:20

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:20
Post 24806 page 2 thanks
FollowupID: 376232

Reply By: Member - Chrispy (NSW) - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:15

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:15
Greendog - I haven't spotted your original post.... but what's the problem?

I gather you are getting some erratic flow problems of some sort? Before you do anything, do you use Gardena-type quick-fit connectors - especially on the inlet side? Get RID of them! They let air bubbles in and your pump can't draw properly. I use Pirtek washered screw-on connectors on all connections and they work a treat - nice steady flow on my GQ Patrol.
AnswerID: 121197

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:24

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:24
Chrispy i'm using ordanary hose clamps,it's ok when i have'nt got the shower head on it's great but as soon as i connect the head to the hose it just starts splurting making the pump basically stop start then the flow is all up tobleep
FollowupID: 376233

Follow Up By: Member - Chrispy (NSW) - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:28

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:28
Ah... OK...

What pump are you using... the 4lpm or 12lpm?

If you're using the 12lpm (I personally prefer the 4) then you are probably restricting the out flow a little too much and the pump is cycling on and off. Try replacing the regular shower head with a DECENT 9lpm unit from your favourite hardware store. A 9lmp unit is typically known as a "water saver" type. If you get one with adjustable spray shapes you can radically affect the flow rate - which might let you diagnose the problem a little further.

FollowupID: 376235

Follow Up By: Nudenut - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:39

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:39
a note or two on troubleshooting for members pages wouldnt go astray
FollowupID: 376238

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:48

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 20:48
Chrispy the pump is a flojet [quiet quad] pump mod 4405-143 flow 3.3 [12.5]lpm thats all it see's on the pump
FollowupID: 376240

Follow Up By: Member - Chrispy (NSW) - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 21:56

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 21:56
The 4405-143 indeed is rated at 12.5lpm and has a pressure switch which will cut out at 35psi detected on the outlet side.

If you leave the shower head off, and place your thumb loosely over the outlet side to partly block the output, does the same thing happen? You could have a faulty pressure switch - or (hopefully) a blocked shower head. Did the head your unit came with have a slide restrictor? Does it happen with the slide restrictor pushed to the fully-open position? I hate these silly restrictors, but with 12lpm flow you need it to keep the rate down so that the heat exchanger can actually get the water you push through it heated to around 40 deg celcius before it exits the exchanger. This is why I reckon that the 4lpm unit is better for a HOT shower.
FollowupID: 376254

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:16

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:16
Thanks Chrispy yes the head did came with a slide restrictor,i have'nt tryed the finger over the hose yet well have a look at that on the weekend,and yes it only happens when the restrictor is pushed fully open.I'm going to play around with it on the weekend so i'll ket you now how i go thanks for your help mate cheer's GREENDOG
FollowupID: 376534

Reply By: atoyot - Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 22:26

Tuesday, Jul 19, 2005 at 22:26
I've got a black irrigation type of filter (cheap one) in the inlet side, and once when I tightened it too much, I had the same type of problem. If your using one of these filters, overtightening can distort the washers on the ends and allow air in. Don't know it that's the problem but worth mentioning,

AnswerID: 121222

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 00:37

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 00:37
Morning Greendog

I have a 'showerpower' which is the same design as the Glind and I use garden hose fittings on garden hose for the pickup, pump outlet to the bullbar mount, and then on the inlet end of the shower hose.

I have had a number of 'hiccups' in getting the sucker to run correctly, but none have been to do with the fittings.

One of the problems was like Chrispy explained - the slide control on the shower head.

After talking to others, in particular Roachie and having a look at his set up with a Twine (from memory) this is how mine is now setup.

Bucket full of water on the ground in front of vehicle (DieselTroopy) with 1/2 in pickup hose in bucket and connected (Via garden hose click fitting) to shu-flow pump in engine bay alongside of battery. The end of the hose in the bucket is cut at approx 45degrees so that it doesn't suck to the bottom of the bucket etc.

The pump lifts the water over the grille of the vehicle without a struggle.

Straight throught the heat exchanger and out to the bullbar outlet mount which has the shower head connected.

The shower head has the slider control in the fully open position which allows the water to flow through totally unimpeded.

I then drop/place the shower head in the bucket and with the engine heated up it takes approx 4-5 mins to bring that 10litre bucket up to a temp that most human bodies have trouble withstanding.

So, I just watch it like a hawke and when right , shut off the heater control and if still continuing to heat up I shut of the engine, with the shower water circulating flat chat all the time.

I never shut it off at the head.

When I want to put it down etc to soap up or whatever I just place it back in the bucket.

Never have a problem now.

Hope this helps

AnswerID: 121241

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:31

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:31
Ken, are you saying that you cant get decent temperature out of your piranah Heat exchange in one pass, say 4 litres a minute at 45degC?? Michael
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FollowupID: 376503

Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:58

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 22:58
No! not at all, in fact with the heater control fully open it will burn you.

I was just giving an approximate of how long it takes to heat up a 10 litre bucket of cold water.

As a matter of fact, the 'expert' techo who installed it, fitted the heat exchanger after the Turbo water outlet and it used to heat the water hot enough to remove the bristles off a pig, and you couldn't control it.

Good for the snow they reckoned when I took it back.

Altered it immediately and now its just perfect.

FollowupID: 376507

Reply By: CMB - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 08:27

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 08:27
I have such a system on my patrol. I have my pump mounted in the engine bay with a 100 litre tank in the rear. Plumbing is 12mm garden hose (permanant tail joints) via a filter. The heat exchange is also in the engine bay. I have my system plumbed up so that I can pump hot or cold water as necessary - even to a tap on the rear of the rig. My outlets are click type garden connectors (except rear tap) that have little taps on them (for security that they won't leak). It works a treat and have even put out a small grass fire with it (petrol exhaust from a collegues car on the side of the road).
These pumps (except for the bigger 505 quad type pumps that have a continuous duty cycle) have a pressure switch attached so that the pump cuts out when the discharge side gets up to the preset pressure to save the pump from overload etc. This is ususlly an adjustable setting.
To me it sounds like for your setup (assuming there is no failure as suggested by others) the pressure is set too low. Your shower head may be creating enough back pressure to cause the switch to turn the pump off. Adjust this screw to a point where you are happy that the pump does not cycle when your shower is on but ensure that it will stop when you turn your shower off (ie adjust this screw with the shower on until there is no more pump cycling). To do this, remove the little square cover from on top of the pressure switch (phillips screw). This is usually on the end of the pump where the electrical wires go to from tye power source. Under this you will find another screw - this is the adjustment screw.

Good luck,
AnswerID: 121253

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:21

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:21
Chris thanks for the reply mate i'll have a look at the pressure switch see weather that makes a difference or not cheer's GREENDOG
FollowupID: 376535

Reply By: Grinner - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 10:24

Wednesday, Jul 20, 2005 at 10:24
I have the same pump on my shower setup using a Helton HE. The Flojet pump has a pressure shut off sensor, that will turn off the pump when the water stops flowing, eg if you were to put a tap on the end of your hose, when you turn the tap off, a few seconds later the pump will stop, when you turn the tap back on, the pump will start again.

I also experienced the same problem you have described, I fixed it two ways.

First, I found that I was getting a lot of debris in the system, to the point where it was clogging up the shower head. I fixed that by adding two filters in the system, one on the suction hose before the pump, and another just before the shower head. I just used the inline type used in garden dripper systems. When I'm drawing water directly out of a river I find I have to check and clean the filters every day.

Second, The Flojet pump has a screw which is used to adjust the pressure at which point the pressure switch cuts in, From memory its the screw in the middle of the pump body. Try slowly adjusting this while the pump is running until you get a constant flow of water.

Hope this helps

Grinner :)
AnswerID: 121281

Follow Up By: GREENDOG - Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:10

Thursday, Jul 21, 2005 at 10:10
Grinner Thanks for your reply mate i'll have a look at it at the weekend and take all suggestions on board i'll just have to have a play around with it and try things that have been suggested on here thanks to every that has replyed i'll let you now how it works out over the weekend cheer's GREENDOG
FollowupID: 376533

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