realistic expectations. . . no machining diesel engine repair by kit.
Submitted: Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 04:35
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lemons
Not wishing to make a big thing about this subject, but I have been getting blank stares from trades people when asking them: is it possible to simply install a rebuild kit (finished) to a diesel engine without going through all the machining and reboring etc, etc?
That would be new, pistons and rings, finished sleeve's; main bearings, cam bearings and big and little end bearings. Top and bottom gaskets and a valve grind for the head.
cost for a kit are $1000 + - and the engine now is a goer but a bit smoky. No death rattles or other indicated knocks.
I need a couple of years out of the old girl and cannot afford to pay $6000 for a workshop job.
lemons
Reply By: theshadows - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 06:54
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 06:54
The problem are the cyclinder tey are spplied as blanks then you must press them in and then
bore and hone them to size. So no there is no kit as such. It is easier just to rebore the block and get over size pistons.
The main reason kit are not made is that there is no market for them. Its viable when you got 1.5 mllion v6 comodore motors bein used and abused but with diesals wen there is only 300,000 desial made its just not viable to make a kit up for them.
That said lancruser parts in the states do make rebuil kits for most motor in the USA and they will export to australia. But to be honest by the time you pay for the freight and custom so times it cheaper to buy the parts here.
Shadow
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Stew53 - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 07:47
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 07:47
lemons
AnswerID:
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Reply By: at4x4 - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:35
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:35
If the bearings arent through the face material, dunnybrush hone the block, chuck some rings in, have the valve seats tested, have pump and injectors checked, and use good quality oil and genuine filter when back together.
Cant 100% bet it will work if you dont do a 100% job, but most people pull an engine down when there is something wrong with it, so any marks anywhere indicate it "must be stuffed", but if they have never pulled down a motor just to check [motorsport etc] then some of the things seen may of been there since the motor was run in, 10k old, 50k old etc etc.
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Reply By: fourstall2000 - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:41
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:41
Having worked in a UD Nissan truck dealership I can tell you that hundreds of truck engines are rebuilt each year by using kits.
New liners are pressed in and replacement pistons,rings and bearings fitted.
Of couse the crankshaft must be checked for wear and must be within tolerances.
The only problem you could have with no equipment is that the clearance between the top of the piston must be spot on,the usual practice is to machine the tops of the pistons to achieve this critical dimension.
Also you require a sleeve removal/installation tool.
Regards
AnswerID:
124161
Reply By: Tuff60 - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 10:44
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 10:44
Don't know where you are, I was working in Eltham VIC, years ago and saw a guy honing a truck(from memory a HINO) engine in the truck. Hole contraption bolted onto
the block like engine shops use to use. Take the head and sump off, remove pistons and rods, rotate the crank for clearance and then
bore and hone away. Then he said you just wash it out with a pressure washer oil it up and tap in a new set of pistons, rings and bearings and put the top and bottom back on.
I was driving a 2H powered(read underpowered) 60 series at the time and he said he'd done Cruisers before but I can't remember his name, if it any help he had a blue van with the thing pictured on the side.
Maybe this helps.
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Reply By: lemons - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 10:55
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 10:55
thanks for the response. I am a retired mechanic myself and we never told a customer it could be an 'in-frame' rebuild . . . it always had to come out and be done 'properly'.
After years servicing diesel
bore-pumps, I recall the we did do strips and replacement of parts as indicated by wear and condition. Yes we often just put them back together and returned them to service.
I have found a source who will supply a standard kit. The sleeves are finished and the aim is to complete a standard engine on standard bearing material. The crankshaft is forged steel. Final tolerances will be set after dismantle and sizing.
I believe we used to press the sleeves out although looking at the service book, a bit of welding and fabrication from the scarp heap may be required to build a tool.
Thank you all for the good advice. Getting harder to get people to consider having a go these days.
lemons
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: conman - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 18:48
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 18:48
Hi Lemon,
I remember a friend who used to rebuild his truck engine by doing an in chassis rebuild. Used to freeze the sleeves in
the block then would jack up the truck, put a huge 2x4 that was the size of the sleeve diameter under the truck. He then let the jack down, hey presto the sleeve would pop out the top as the whole truck came down. (hope this makes sense). Then to reinstall, he would get a cryo guy to come out and freeze the new sleeves, thus shrinking them, so they would slide into
the block and then expand.
Never actually saw him do it, and don't know if thats the way engine rebuilders do it, but sounded pretty clever.
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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 23:26
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 23:26
CO2 fire extinguisher works good for freezing parts for assembly, also for siezed parts where heat cant be used
FollowupID:
379152
Reply By: fourstall2000 - Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 08:46
Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 08:46
As a tradesman fitter and turner I used to make the liner withdrawal
tools for the UD workshop.
Basically a turned disc that fitted in the
bore and had a ledge which was outside dia of liner less a few thousands,through the centre was bored a 3/4 clearance hole.
Using one of these at the bottom of the liner, and a robust angle frame on the head the liner was drawn upwards and out .
Refitting was usually by use of the removal tool and a carefully applied mash hammer.
Pistons were then fitted and clearance between head and top of piston measured,to obtain correct clearance the tops of the pistons were machined off in the lathe if required.
Regards
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: lemons - Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 17:16
Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 17:16
Well there you go! The know-how is still there, but doesn't get much of a look-in with our disposable / modular society.
Thanks for that 'fourstall' I saw the diagrames with the service book.
Crypto-guy . . . I thought that was someone who froze the bejeezus out of you for old times sake. . . learn something everyday here.
No I didn'y know you could get a flask of instant freeze delivered for specific jobs. Thanks for that.
I'm still unsure if I have a 'go-for-it' from those who have used this technique. Prudential measures would not be ignored.
The pump rack would probably need a go too. . . CAV quote $1200 more or less. No savings here I suppose. Asking them to pull it down and replace O-rings would be futile cost wise.
BTW, this isn't exactly for me. It is for a friend who has bought my truck. I want him to get the best value from it he can. He would expect a couple of years, but I want to be syre.
his money.
lemons
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