Turbocharging a standard 100 series diesel

Thanks Toolman, I appreciate your input. I will give this some thought, for the gains in power it seems fairly reasonable.

Yes, have only heard good things about Denco, will certainly do the exhaust also if I go this way.. many thanks

Thanks for that, I'll see if I can get my hands on a copy of these. Good timing.

Cheers

Cheers Fatz, will take a look at the vehicle again this w/end

Food for thought... If I could find a well set up TD 80, I'd probably just take it instead...

Buuuuuuut
a) where do you find a td motor from an 80 - they were not overly common and fetch huge money 2nd hand 9vehicles that is)
b) whats it going to cost- I saw a 12ht with 350k so virtually a rebuilder going for 7k so whats a td 80 motor going to be worth
Good point about the gearbox

Importers are bringing them into the country, about 12k from memory, but might have come down a little. There was a 96 t/d auto on ebay last week for 20k...it didnt get a bid, and it was nice. People arnt wanting to buy or own these cars anymore for some reason. My model is selling for 14 now.
Good place to get a donor motor would be the NRMA salvage auctions..probably pay 6k for the whole wreck, then you do have all the parts.
Andrew

Wouldnt have thought to many would end up at salvadge yards as I dont see to many in caryards or adverised. if you could get one for 6 it would be well worthwhile.
Surly your not saying factory td are selling for around 14? The ones I have seen advertised are huge money for vehicles that age with the later ones over 30k (what they sell for could be another thing)
80s in general have dropped in price over the last year or 2 with older ones fetching below 10 (I assume these are pretty high milaege) but the good later models still get advertisd for 20+ with plenty of reasnable ones around the 13 to 18
I paid 12600 for mine but I knew it needed some work and it ended up owing me 15k with nothing (well nothing much) spent since the initial outlay

Davo
Mine is petrol auto....there are many on the market, so its a buyers market. 14 seems to be the fetching price. Been watching ebay for years, and up till 2 months ago, never seen a t/d, but the last 2 months, seen 10 or more go through, the last one was a auto 96 with low kms (less than 200) for less than 25......thats unheard of!
Andrew

Mate I bought my 98 100 ser almost 4 yrs ago it had about 100,000ks on the clock and 190,000ks now it was already fitted with a Safari turbo and Intercooler and I have had no Probs with it even though My mates told me that if its is not factory its CHITE! well I hope to keep proving them wrong and say yeah go for it ! ( Im just going to go out and buy one of these EGT gauges now Im feeling a bit Paranoid?? )

Good Luck Regards JB.

Ian,
I can happily back up your ideas on EGT gauge.
It is quite amazing how quickly the temp can rise when the conditions are right (or should I say "wrong"?). I used to always drive "by the tacho", but now tend to drive "by the pyro". Gear change timing takes on a whole new meaning when you see what sort of temps the exhaust manifold is coping with.
Very happy with the Thermoguard system.
Cheers
Roachie

(NB: DISCLAIMER:.....I have have no interest in Thermoguard)

Hi Dozer,

I don't want to bag the opposition, especially when they probably can't respond directly, but a couple of things about the Jaycar kit:

. It's an enthusiasts kit of electronics components, which requires the buyer to have the skills to assemble such a kit, including electronic soldering and the identification of resistors, capacitors, diodes, ICs, etc. I'm not saying that's too hard (I've been doing so for 30-odd years, so it can't be that hard), but it's not for everyone.

. Not sure what was in your kit but the thermocouple shown on the Jaycar website would not be suitable for EGT applications - the lead materials wouldn't last more than a few minutes in engine bay conditions. Did you by any chance use a more robust industrial MIMS thermocouple with fibre-glass insulated, stainless-steel braided leads for your petrol turbo engine application? That would be a much better choice but such sensors do cost more.

. I can't swear to this but I recall that this design (From the Silicon Chip "Performance Electronics for Cars" booklet) provides a linear voltage to temperature conversion using a Seebeck coefficient of 40.6 uV per deg C. This is OK for lower temperatures but is not accurate at higher temperatures (above, say, 400 C). While it's far from the worst, type-K thermocouples do still have significant non-linearity at higher temperatures and an indicator design without linearization will have errors of around 20 degrees at 700 C and worse at higher temps. (If anyone's interested, I can dig out the actual linearization error at various high temps.)

So, while the Jaycar kit is quite good at it's job when correctly and competently constructed, a factory-built and calibrated indicator with appropriate cold-junction compensation and thermocouple linearization will do a better and simpler job for most users.

Ian

Hi Ian
Thanks for the reply, its all good info.
You are right on all counts, i repaired a pump for an electrician at work, and he soldered up the kit in return, and found me a type K as you thought.
This backs up the old saying....you get what you pay for
Andrew