Crook steering wheel

Hi David,
I restored an old truck years ago and it was broken at the inner ring,that joins onto the the steering yolk,it actually rocked..I first of all tried fibreglass resin mixed talkum powder..it broke,..what I had to do was gouge out the hard part of the wheel..not to much just enought so you can include some fibreglass mat into the mix filled it let it cure sanded it back to original..so no one new...painted it and it was passed..it needed the matting as reo.Hope this helps.
JD

Many years ago I bought a car from a yard that had the very problem you describe. The car salesman said "no problem.....there is a guy who fixes these by injecting glue into them, we'll get it done before you take delivery". Well it fixed it perfectly and never gave way again whilst I owned the car. I can't tell you exactly what was done but there certainly are ways to fix it via injection and your local car yard might be a good source of info.

Trevor

G'day David,
The best method I know of (my company makes steering wheels for Australian OE manufacturers) is to inject glue into the wheel using a syringe. Try a Loctite glue as these are quite runny and set permanently.

Inject the syringe in until you can feel the metal insert. this way you are gauranteed to get the glue where you want it (between the insert and the polyurethane foam) and squirt the glue in a few areas near the delaminated area to ensure a good bond.

good luck

Dan

drill 2 holes in the back of the rubber were you don't see them . Pump silicon in there and twist it around a little till it spreads , leave it till the next day and cut off the excess silicon that is sticking out of the wheel . if it has perished on the outside , don't bother just get a new one

I fixed the wheel on mine and you can't tell where I injected it.

(For the sake of simplicity from here on I will refer to adhesive as ‘glue’)

1st, get a nice fine needle and a syringe. A 5 ml syringe and a 25gauge needle worked well.
Wrap tape tightly around the hand grip of the wheel about 1 to 2 inches apart.
Put a drop sheet over the front seat and dash. With the glue you don’t get a second chance. Safety glasses are also a good idea.
Fill the syringe with superglue. I used Loctite 406 which is for plastics.
Fit the needle and push it through the tape until you feel the needle hit the steel core of the wheel.
Inject about 1ml of glue and give the plastic casing a bit of a twist to spread the glue around on the inside.
Work your way around the wheel until you think you have glued all the loose casing to the core.
When the glue has gone off then peel the tape off.

Wrapping the tape will stop getting crusty dried adhesive all over the wheel and all that you will be able to find when it has dried is the tiniest little pin head of cured super glue.

G'day David, Yeah man all these methods sound like they'd all work. If it's a bad tear or that the outer grip has just come away sure fix it that way, just don't get caught. I don't know what state you're from but here in Vic it could cause you problems

I’ve used saturation epoxy injected with a 5ml syringe and 19 gauge needle on a couple of wheels with great success. The epoxy will stick to almost anything and has the best gap filling qualities of any glue I’ve used.
One thing to watch is that the glue doesn’t rum down the inside of the spokes and glue up the horn or anything else that needs to move. To avoid this you should inject glue only into the bottom section of the wheel, then when the glue is dry turn the wheel and glue another section, repeat until it’s all done.
Keith